reloading book FPS? spot on?

ohihunter2014

New member
Do you guys find velocity in reloading manuals if your using the same weapon listed velocities to be spot on? I'm loading 45-70 in a marlin 22''barrel at 40gr IMR 4198-300gr HP and the book says that should be about 1800fps but I keep hearing how I'm underpowered but what ive read about the Hornady HP its doesn't like to be pushed really fast.
 
Every barrel shoots differently. Tight/loose bores, temp, alot of variables. The manuals are just guidelines to get you started. Your rifle will let you know what it likes.
 
Some are close but more are not. I do know that these polygon rifled barrels have NEVER shot the top velocities listed in the books. I have always shot FASTER than those listed to the tune of 50-100 FPS on average. It's like an extra 2" of barrel for free, assuming we are talking a 18" tube, and I like that.

Greg
 
I've found that most manuals test barrel lengths aren't the same as mine. FPS isn't really something I look at in a manual, just the min and max charges with whatever powder I have on hand. Then I chrony so I know exactly what mine is doing.
 
I always do my load development with a chronograph....let the gun tell you what it's "maximums" are. Rarely do I see the published data be in line with what I find.
 
Originally Posted By: ohihunter2014Do you guys find velocity in reloading manuals if your using the same weapon listed velocities to be spot on? I'm loading 45-70 in a marlin 22''barrel at 40gr IMR 4198-300gr HP and the book says that should be about 1800fps but I keep hearing how I'm underpowered but what ive read about the Hornady HP its doesn't like to be pushed really fast.

Who keeps telling you that you're underpowered? And underpowered for what purpose?
 
i'm with GC - someone is filling your head full of mush.

the book (or website) in question is a genearl guideline of what they found with their test barrel - which will NEVER be the same as your barrel, no matter how much you try to make it so.




even if you could get a barrel EXACTLY like the test barrel(s) used to generate the data in the reloading manual on your desk - or online data, etc - you're NEVER going to be able to get the same lot of powder they used, so your results will NEVER be exactly the same.... Ever.

the above sentence is one of the very FEW absolute statement you can make about reloading data in any published manual. so please read it again and let it sink in fully.



reloading books are a guideline for close min/max data for us to build
groups of test loads for our firearms from - nothing more, nothing less. its not hard and fast recipe books like for baking a cake or making a beef wellington. You dont just go in, pick a load from the data based on what FPS you feel you want to run at (or are told that you absolutely have to have, or you're a complete failure if you dont get) and mash the chosen primer, brass, bullet and powder together and head to the range.

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Originally Posted By: GCOriginally Posted By: ohihunter2014Do you guys find velocity in reloading manuals if your using the same weapon listed velocities to be spot on? I'm loading 45-70 in a marlin 22''barrel at 40gr IMR 4198-300gr HP and the book says that should be about 1800fps but I keep hearing how I'm underpowered but what ive read about the Hornady HP its doesn't like to be pushed really fast.

Who keeps telling you that you're underpowered? And underpowered for what purpose?

Upon talking to a couple people that reload that round I commented on how the powder seemed dirty after about 40-50 rounds it took a lot of patches to get a clean one and they asked how much powder and when I told them they said I was on the low end and needed to go higher I was underpowered. I don't own a chronograph and cant afford one right now so just judging on the book.
 
Originally Posted By: Plant.Onei'm with GC - someone is filling your head full of mush.

the book (or website) in question is a genearl guideline of what they found with their test barrel - which will NEVER be the same as your barrel, no matter how much you try to make it so.




even if you could get a barrel EXACTLY like the test barrel(s) used to generate the data in the reloading manual on your desk - or online data, etc - you're NEVER going to be able to get the same lot of powder they used, so your results will NEVER be exactly the same.... Ever.

the above sentence is one of the very FEW absolute statement you can make about reloading data in any published manual. so please read it again and let it sink in fully.



reloading books are a guideline for close min/max data for us to build
groups of test loads for our firearms from - nothing more, nothing less. its not hard and fast recipe books like for baking a cake or making a beef wellington. You dont just go in, pick a load from the data based on what FPS you feel you want to run at (or are told that you absolutely have to have, or you're a complete failure if you dont get) and mash the chosen primer, brass, bullet and powder together and head to the range.

bef4ef152bb3fee194b2c2d2d8cdaefd--work-memes-work-humor.jpg





Now not being funny but if Hornady lists a marlin 1895 22'' barrel would it make all that much difference. I worked up from Min to 44gr which 40gr gave me the best group but when you look at Hodgdon they start several grain over Hornady max. Just making sure that bullets going to open when the moment of truth comes.
 
every published set of data, if collected independently and not just copy/pasted from another source, is going to be different.

no two barrels slug *exactly* the same. there will always be differences, even within a given tolerance range.

no two barrels will have the same chamber - even SAAMI specs are a tolerance range of acceptable dimensions for a given caliber

no two barrels - mind you i'm talking a typical production grade button rifled barrel here, what you'll find on 95% or better of retail shelves - even those produced consecutively, to the same base spec, on the same machine will have the same rifling twist. there will always be a difference - however slight... (a 1:10 spec may produce a 1:9.8 and then a 1:10.2 twist rate, just for an example)

no two lots of powder will have the same burn rate. they'll all be very close, but never identical.


and that doesnt even begin to discuss environmental differences that effect powder burn rate and ballistics.



with those peices of information in mind, yes it can make a difference. how much of a difference is going to depend on how those variables stack up.



being that how much of a difference is the only real question, thats why a chrono was recommended to you.


Originally Posted By: ohihunter2014
Upon talking to a couple people that reload that round I commented on how the powder seemed dirty after about 40-50 rounds it took a lot of patches to get a clean one and they asked how much powder and when I told them they said I was on the low end and needed to go higher I was underpowered. I don't own a chronograph and cant afford one right now so just judging on the book.

some powders dont burn efficently until you acheive a specific density. every powder is going to be a little different in that respect. However case fill % is not always the only answer either. Sometimes (often) neck tension can play a role, what primer you're using, temp, etc....

if you're seeing a lot of sooting on your case, that means you're not getting enough pressure to seat the case mouth into the chamber wall before the bullet is starting to move. this is almost always a sign of too low of pressure. however - that doesnt mean you're outside of the performance range of the projectile you're using either. Or outside of the performance range of your specific firearm.



the kicker is, with rounds like the .45-70 - there are often 3 different data sets out there based on the age of the firearm in use, and the relative strength of its chamber.

for older firearms like a trap door gun - you'll find data that even though its used with smokeless powder is speced for pressure tolerances for more traditional firearms that the caliber was engineered around. these loads max out at around 25000 CUP.

you'll also find "standard" loads that are used in most modern - like the 1895 marlin, loaded to around 40,000 CUP - load data thats going to be quite a bit stouter than the low pressure stuff

and then you'll also find full house data for firearms with high quality modern chambers/barrels - like a ruger #1 - that will take a more common smokeless pressure range (50,000 CUP)



bearing that in mind, if you're using the hornady 300gr HP (#4500) with 1895 marlin data, you should be fine at even relatively low power loads from the 1895 data set - those would be considered "mid range" velocitys for the trap doo data.



so while your friends may be right that its "underpowered" thats a very loaded term with a lot of shades of gray in there. that will depend on both the firearm being used and the projectile being used.



which is why i stand by my statement that someone may well be filling your head full of mush - even if they're doing so just to add another knotch to their man card, or simply through a lack of information when making the claim.


[edit] with all of this in mind, you can see why its very important when i stressed that reloading is not just opening a recipe book and picking the recipe for beef wellington that you like. Sometimes incorrect data choices can lead to VERY VERY bad consequences. You'd never want to use Ruger #1 data in a trapdoor, or marlin 1895. The result could be catastrophic - for both you and your firearm. I dont say that lightly either.

its also a perfect example of why you'll see folks over and over say "NEVER TRUST INTERNET DATA" - without at the very least verifying it against multiple sources, and then doing a proper load development to test it in your firearm as well.
 
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