Remington Pillar Bedding Columns ???

me

me

New member
Does anyone know...

The difference between ADL and BDL columns? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
Will a 700 column fit a Model Seven action? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
(Action diameter and bolt sizes could be different...)

As I go further into this replacement stock project on my Model Seven, I'm discovering that "96% inletting" really means "ain't nuthin' gonna quite match up right." The take down bolt holes in the stock don't quite align with the holes in the action. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif I'm going to have to elongate them a bit. While I'm at it, I might as well give pillar bedding a try.....

Thanks!
me!
 
Changing stocks from one gun to another can be tricky at times, even if they are on the same type of action. I had two Rem. Classics in the same caliber. One was pillar bedded and the other wasn't. I put a McMillan on the pillar bedded gun and wanted the pillared stock on the other gun. Pillars didn't match up for the other gun.
 
I guess I didn't explain what information I was looking for so well.....

I'm not referring to pillars already in stocks.....
I'm talking about installing some.

I have a Remington Model Seven.
I purchased a 96% inlet stock from Richards.
The take down bolt holes aren't properly aligned between stock and action.
I've got to move them slightly; so I'll put pillars in at the same time.

I checked MidwayUSA and they show 2 different sets of pillar bedding columns for Remingtons - one for the ADL and a different set for the BDL. I would suspect that either they are slightly different lengths or are for different diameter bolts. I don't know - I've never owned a 700 and don't have ready access to one.

The length is not a problem, it's easy enough to buy a set that is too long and trim them back.

Bolts diameters have got to be the same.

I have never seen a pillar, but I would assume that the top is cut in a radius to match that of the action. So I'd like to know if the 700-series and the Model Seven have the same diameter to their actions. (I would assume so - but you know what they say about the word "[beeep]-u-me"!)

LOL!! I get beeped if I say "butt"!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Thanks!
me!
 
They should work , most need to be trimed or ground down after they are glued in. If you buy pillars for the 700 or Model 7 they will be contoured for the round action /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Me,
Forget the contoured pillars, you want squared ended pillars to contact the round reciever. This provides just minimal contact with the action. Aluminum pillars will expand and contract at different rates than your steel action, thus the desired minimum contact. The bulk of the contact will be made with whatever bedding material that you use, like Devcon, gray Marine-Tex, Bisonite, etc. All the pillars do is support the action while the epoxy sets up and they provide a non crushable support between the guard screws and the action. This allows the torque setting to remain constant, with no compression of wood fibers in the stock.
The difference in ADL and BDL pillars is that the front pillar on the ADL is countersunk. The BDL pillar is square on both ends because you'll be using it under a floorplate and it has no interface with the guard screw.
There are tons of articles available online, many with step by step pictures, on pillar bedding a rifle. I usually use a method very similar to the ones Darrell Holland uses. Holland's method may somewhat involved, but the results are worth it, in spades.
I've used Parrish(squared up on the ends) and Holland's pillars and have made my own too. I really don't care for the adjustable types. I prefer one piece pillars, just mill off the excess after everything is set.
Good luck !
F1
 
Flyrod,
You seem to know much about this subject. Your thought's on adjustable aluminum pillars. Like the set sold in Brownells.
 
greydog,
Some folks like the adjustable pillars, but I really prefer the solid pillars. The hard part is getting the adjustables adjusted EXACTLY right. This becomes even more critical when you're installing bottom metal(trigger guard/floorplate combo). If you're off a few thousandths then you've potentially introduced that much stress into your bedding job. I guess if you got them too long you could just mill the excess off even with the bottom metal inlet and it would probably produce the same end result. It just seems more simple to me, and potentially more rigid, to use the solid pillars. I guess the adjustables are mainly intended for the person that does not have access to a milling machine or drill press.
Some folks don't even use metal for their pillars. Jim Borden uses fiberglass(epoxy) pillars in his Rimrock line of stocks. His reasoning is that the epoxy pillars will expand and contract at the same rate as the rest of the stock( this is an epoxy resin/glass cloth and foam stock). Jim is no stranger to the world of accurate rifles. He builds some of the finest shooting, hunting rifles, available anywhere, not to mention his benchrest and hunting actions!
I personally cannot attest to any rifle I've bedded using metal pillars, losing or gaining accuracy, or any shift in group due to changes in temperature. I think any movement would be negligible by varmint/hunting rifle standards.
The whole beauty of using pillars,for me, is that you can remove enough material from the stock so the epoxy will be thick enough to substantially add strength to the stock in the bedded area, all while the action is being supported in exactly the position in the stock that you want it in.
F1












9
 
Flyrod1 -

Thank you so much!

I haven't been back to here since I rewrote my question. I gave the situation a lot of thought while I was driving between clients' yesterday...

I pretty much came to the conclusion that you suggested. I decided that I didn't need the pillars because I was bedding the barreled action with Acra-glas. All I needed was something to keep the bolts properly positioned in the stock. I went to a local hardware store and scrounged through their small parts bins until I came up with two aluminum sleeves that fit the bolts and were just a bit longer than the space through the stock. Now, I'll just get them positioned, grind them to the right length and bed them into place.

Thanks for the response and all the information!!

me!

P.S.
If I ever take on a project like this again /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif ... You gentlemen have my permission to knock some sense into this woman's silly head... From now on, I'm sticking with factory take-offs when I want a different stock.
 


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