Ricky Bobby
New member
I decided that I would try to put together a hopefully usefull thread on removing a stuck case. Anyone who has reloaded long enough will eventually find themselves stuck(no pun intended) in this dreadful situation. My 1st time, I found myself searching the net & watching Youtube videos ... then having to round up everything needed before being able to continue. To say the least, if you're not prepared, it will put a damper on things until the case is removed and you can continue with your reloading. I have been self-taught with reloading & think it's important to share info like this for the newcomers. Hopefully it will shorten the learning curve. So here we go.
Here is a pic of our dreadful situation. A stuck case.
Now for the "lets get down to business" part. Below is a pic of the die removed from the press with the stuck case. Also, in the pic is everything that I have pieced together as a removal kit. I purchased everything from my local Rural King and have about $10-$15 invested. The kit includes: 1/4" - 20 tap, T-handle to fit tap, 13/64" drill bit, two - 5/8" grade 8 nuts, 1/4" - 20 grade 8 bolt 1 1/4" long, and a 1/4" grade 8 washer. The washer must be large enough that it can't pass through the center of the 5/8" nuts.
Now that the die is removed with the stuck case, first we need to loosen the nut on top of the die that locks the decapping pin in place. You want to back the decapping pin as far out as possible to get it out of the way during the removal process. Otherwise, you might risk damaging it. It should look something like this when backed all the way out.
Next you need to position the ram of your press all the way in the down position. Flip the die upside down and screw it into your press from the bottom side up. You want the die to stick up out of the top of your press by maybe an 1/8". Be sure and lock down the large die nut and tighten it all into place. Then the first thing to do is drill a 13/64" hole straight down through the primer pocket into the center of the case. Be extra carefull to not hit the decapping pin once the bit goes all the way through.
Now that the case is drilled, next we will tap it. With the tap installed into the T-handle you simply want to start it in the 13/64" hole and turn clockwise while holding it as straight and even as possible. You might have to back it out and clean off the threads a time or two and then attempt it again. Brass is soft and you should have no problems getting it tapped. Be sure and tap it deep enough that it goes all the way through. The tap should get real easy to turn & this is the indication that it is through. Remove tap.
... to be continued.
Here is a pic of our dreadful situation. A stuck case.
Now for the "lets get down to business" part. Below is a pic of the die removed from the press with the stuck case. Also, in the pic is everything that I have pieced together as a removal kit. I purchased everything from my local Rural King and have about $10-$15 invested. The kit includes: 1/4" - 20 tap, T-handle to fit tap, 13/64" drill bit, two - 5/8" grade 8 nuts, 1/4" - 20 grade 8 bolt 1 1/4" long, and a 1/4" grade 8 washer. The washer must be large enough that it can't pass through the center of the 5/8" nuts.
Now that the die is removed with the stuck case, first we need to loosen the nut on top of the die that locks the decapping pin in place. You want to back the decapping pin as far out as possible to get it out of the way during the removal process. Otherwise, you might risk damaging it. It should look something like this when backed all the way out.
Next you need to position the ram of your press all the way in the down position. Flip the die upside down and screw it into your press from the bottom side up. You want the die to stick up out of the top of your press by maybe an 1/8". Be sure and lock down the large die nut and tighten it all into place. Then the first thing to do is drill a 13/64" hole straight down through the primer pocket into the center of the case. Be extra carefull to not hit the decapping pin once the bit goes all the way through.
Now that the case is drilled, next we will tap it. With the tap installed into the T-handle you simply want to start it in the 13/64" hole and turn clockwise while holding it as straight and even as possible. You might have to back it out and clean off the threads a time or two and then attempt it again. Brass is soft and you should have no problems getting it tapped. Be sure and tap it deep enough that it goes all the way through. The tap should get real easy to turn & this is the indication that it is through. Remove tap.
... to be continued.
