yoteslayer77
New member
What do you guys recomend as a replacement? Cost? Should i get the factory trigger worked on? Thanks
Ruger 10/22 Trigger
- Thread starter yoteslayer77
- Start date
Chris_Brice
New member
Just get a Volquartsen hammer from midway or similer. Reduces pull to about 2.5lbs. Takes about 1/2 hour if you've never done it before. Done.
CB
CB
heres mid way site for replacement hammers
http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?t=82579&pageNum=0&tabId=9&categoryId=12917&categoryString=10636***10560***9142***11647***
if you send it out to be worked on its about90 below is a link to rfc they have do it your self tips and tricks there also if you feel comfortable
RFC thread for send out trigger group rework
http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291950
tips and tricks
http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220
http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?t=82579&pageNum=0&tabId=9&categoryId=12917&categoryString=10636***10560***9142***11647***
if you send it out to be worked on its about90 below is a link to rfc they have do it your self tips and tricks there also if you feel comfortable
RFC thread for send out trigger group rework
http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291950
tips and tricks
http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220
Evil_Lurker
New member
Get the Power Custom competition hammer/sear set with the sear drilled and tapped for an overtravel adjustment.
PC set @ Midway
You need to know if your 10/22 hammer bushings are cast into the hammer as one piece or seperate parts. If it's all one piece, you'll need to buy hammer bushings, too.
PC set @ Midway
You need to know if your 10/22 hammer bushings are cast into the hammer as one piece or seperate parts. If it's all one piece, you'll need to buy hammer bushings, too.
wildcat_arms
New member
Last edited:
Martyn4802
New member
I have eight Ruger 10-22's, and have done trigger jobs on all of them. After learning a whole lot about them over on Rimfirecentral.com, I found that the basic upgrade to the trigger is just a hammer change; I used Power Custom Hammers initially, but later began grinding my own hammers. No need changing the sear as the aftermarket sears offer no improvement over factory sears. A Power Custom Hammer will give you a decent 2 1/2 pound pull, the loswest safe pull weight for the factory designed trigger. If you want the best trigger, get a KIDD trigger. They are expensive, but will get pull weights down in the ounces range, safely.
The sky is the limit on upgrades to 10-22's, but the first thing needed is the hammer change.
Martyn
The sky is the limit on upgrades to 10-22's, but the first thing needed is the hammer change.
Martyn
SamSpade
New member
I have had a few done by this guy. Quick, easy and no worries about screwing things up: http://www.triggerwork.net/1022.html
Evil_Lurker
New member
Quote:...as the aftermarket sears offer no improvement over factory sears.
Other than having adjustable pre-travel.
Because if you try drilling and tapping a sear yourself, you're entering a world of pain.
And if you don't, you'll live with a bunch of take-up.
But yes, the cheapest trigger improvement for the money is to swap the hammer. Huge improvement right there.
Other than having adjustable pre-travel.
Because if you try drilling and tapping a sear yourself, you're entering a world of pain.
And if you don't, you'll live with a bunch of take-up.
But yes, the cheapest trigger improvement for the money is to swap the hammer. Huge improvement right there.
Last edited:
yoteslayer77
New member
Originally Posted By: Chris_BriceJust get a Volquartsen hammer from midway or similer. Reduces pull to about 2.5lbs. Takes about 1/2 hour if you've never done it before. Done.
CB
Is this what i need? http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=769638
CB
Is this what i need? http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=769638
Evil_Lurker
New member
Evil_Lurker
New member
Quote:No world of pain for an unlimited machine shop access.
Yeah, Devcon or JB Weld can take the pre-travel out, too.
I've got some spare parts here to play with, I figure that's worth something in the long run.
Yeah, Devcon or JB Weld can take the pre-travel out, too.
I've got some spare parts here to play with, I figure that's worth something in the long run.
yoteslayer77
New member
Originally Posted By: Evil_Lurker Quote:Is this what i need?
That set will work, I have the exact same one in one of my trigger groups.
You would get a better final job with the one I linked to, for the same price, in my opinion (and I own both sets).
Here's a link to just the hammer with bushings.
VQ hammer
Thanks evil! Thats more in my price range.
That set will work, I have the exact same one in one of my trigger groups.
You would get a better final job with the one I linked to, for the same price, in my opinion (and I own both sets).
Here's a link to just the hammer with bushings.
VQ hammer
Thanks evil! Thats more in my price range.
Evil_Lurker
New member
Quote:Thanks evil! Thats more in my price range.
Yeah, it will give you a huge improvement over the stock Ruger trigger, not everybody wants to put $200 into a trigger for a $120 rifle.
While you have it apart, gently break any burrs on the Ruger sear with a hard Arkansas stone and it will likely be just as nice as if you bought the new sear.
I'd also use the Ruger springs instead of the ones in the set, I never changed out any of the springs in either of mine, and they both work perfectly.
If you want to change that bolt release to make it automatically drop the bolt when you pull the charging handle (instead of having to fuss around with pushing the Ruger lever, almost impossible to do when wearing gloves), check out this guide.
I did it in 5 minutes with a small half-round file by following the picture. Piece of cake.
Auto bolt release mod
Here's a reference for doing the hammer install:
Trigger group reference
If you have problems, PM me and I'll help you out.
Yeah, it will give you a huge improvement over the stock Ruger trigger, not everybody wants to put $200 into a trigger for a $120 rifle.
While you have it apart, gently break any burrs on the Ruger sear with a hard Arkansas stone and it will likely be just as nice as if you bought the new sear.
I'd also use the Ruger springs instead of the ones in the set, I never changed out any of the springs in either of mine, and they both work perfectly.
If you want to change that bolt release to make it automatically drop the bolt when you pull the charging handle (instead of having to fuss around with pushing the Ruger lever, almost impossible to do when wearing gloves), check out this guide.
I did it in 5 minutes with a small half-round file by following the picture. Piece of cake.
Auto bolt release mod
Here's a reference for doing the hammer install:
Trigger group reference
If you have problems, PM me and I'll help you out.
Martyn4802
New member
Originally Posted By: Evil_Lurker Quote:...as the aftermarket sears offer no improvement over factory sears.
Other than having adjustable pre-travel.
Because if you try drilling and tapping a sear yourself, you're entering a world of pain.
And if you don't, you'll live with a bunch of take-up.
But yes, the cheapest trigger improvement for the money is to swap the hammer. Huge improvement right there.
You're right about the take up involved with factory sears.
I went a different route, using JB Weld to eliminate creep.
If you buy a sear already drilled and tapped, that would be the better route to go.
You can anneal the sear, drill and tap it yourself, then re-harden it. I've never done that.
If a guy has the money, then changing both the hammer and getting an adjustable sear is the best way to go.
Other than having adjustable pre-travel.
Because if you try drilling and tapping a sear yourself, you're entering a world of pain.
And if you don't, you'll live with a bunch of take-up.
But yes, the cheapest trigger improvement for the money is to swap the hammer. Huge improvement right there.
You're right about the take up involved with factory sears.
I went a different route, using JB Weld to eliminate creep.
If you buy a sear already drilled and tapped, that would be the better route to go.
You can anneal the sear, drill and tap it yourself, then re-harden it. I've never done that.
If a guy has the money, then changing both the hammer and getting an adjustable sear is the best way to go.
Martyn4802
New member
Originally Posted By: Evil_Lurker Quote:Thanks evil! Thats more in my price range.
Yeah, it will give you a huge improvement over the stock Ruger trigger, not everybody wants to put $200 into a trigger for a $120 rifle.
While you have it apart, gently break any burrs on the Ruger sear with a hard Arkansas stone and it will likely be just as nice as if you bought the new sear.
I'd also use the Ruger springs instead of the ones in the set, I never changed out any of the springs in either of mine, and they both work perfectly.
If you want to change that bolt release to make it automatically drop the bolt when you pull the charging handle (instead of having to fuss around with pushing the Ruger lever, almost impossible to do when wearing gloves), check out this guide.
I did it in 5 minutes with a small half-round file by following the picture. Piece of cake.
Auto bolt release mod
Here's a reference for doing the hammer install:
Trigger group reference
If you have problems, PM me and I'll help you out.
Right on.
I try to stear guys away from spending $200 for a complete trigger assembly that really only provides improvement equal to a hammer change that you can do yourself. Hammers cost about $35, a whole lot less than the $200. You nailed it on the spring issue. I tried all of the springs sold in kits, and finally went back to using factory springs, especially the hammer spring.
I think Joe Cichlid has a tutorial on RFC that shows what trigger parts to polish to get a smoother pull too.
Yeah, it will give you a huge improvement over the stock Ruger trigger, not everybody wants to put $200 into a trigger for a $120 rifle.
While you have it apart, gently break any burrs on the Ruger sear with a hard Arkansas stone and it will likely be just as nice as if you bought the new sear.
I'd also use the Ruger springs instead of the ones in the set, I never changed out any of the springs in either of mine, and they both work perfectly.
If you want to change that bolt release to make it automatically drop the bolt when you pull the charging handle (instead of having to fuss around with pushing the Ruger lever, almost impossible to do when wearing gloves), check out this guide.
I did it in 5 minutes with a small half-round file by following the picture. Piece of cake.
Auto bolt release mod
Here's a reference for doing the hammer install:
Trigger group reference
If you have problems, PM me and I'll help you out.
Right on.
I try to stear guys away from spending $200 for a complete trigger assembly that really only provides improvement equal to a hammer change that you can do yourself. Hammers cost about $35, a whole lot less than the $200. You nailed it on the spring issue. I tried all of the springs sold in kits, and finally went back to using factory springs, especially the hammer spring.
I think Joe Cichlid has a tutorial on RFC that shows what trigger parts to polish to get a smoother pull too.
Evil_Lurker
New member
Quote:Thanks evil! Thats more in my price range.
Glad we could help you out. All of the guys gave you good advice, it just depended on how much you wanted to keep it in perspective on price.
I was never too good at that, personally.
You'll have a much improved rifle now.
If it won't group with a good trigger, PM me and I'll show you how to make the barrel a tack driver for $100 or less.
If you have the money, I know this guy....
Glad we could help you out. All of the guys gave you good advice, it just depended on how much you wanted to keep it in perspective on price.
I was never too good at that, personally.
You'll have a much improved rifle now.
If it won't group with a good trigger, PM me and I'll show you how to make the barrel a tack driver for $100 or less.
If you have the money, I know this guy....