Ruger Hawkeye Predator bedding questions

M

MO_Boy

New member
Evening all.
Purchased aforementioned rifle earlier this fall. I know Rugers are not loved by all but I like the looks of it. It shoots fairly well IMO,, right around .875" with the loads I have tried so far, which hasn't been a lot. Yesterday,, I shot 5rds of 125gr, tried a few different variations of 155gr, and then went back and shot 5rds of the original loading of 125gr. Both of the 125 gr groups were pretty much the same size, but the last group was about an inch higher. I was letting the barrel cool some, it wasn't smoking hot by any means, but it was warm. Don't know what caused this?? I have some old reloads that I have been using for barrel warmers, the 155's, and been using the same target. They have grouped quite well actually, prolly in the half inch range. The other loads with 155 did not shoot very well after the barrel warmed up..

From the start, I planned to tinker with this rifle when I had time. I wanted to get a baseline before I delved into floating the barrel and bedding the action. I have spent most of the day looking for various videos and such to try and learn what I could. I have not been able to find anything on this particular rifle though. It has a two stage trigger, which would really get in the way of a rear pillar tube. And then,, there is the center screw,, which has zero support between the trigger guard and bottom of the receiver. As in gap between the wood and metal. I am feeling pretty confident about the bedding part,, but the pillars have me a little nervous. There is just not that much room on the rear screw. There is a lot of wood cut out for the trigger and such. I have been trying to figure out whether or not making a bushing for the center screw would be beneficial. ( I work in a machine shop so I have access to all that fun stuff.) There really isn't a lot of room there either because of relief in the stock. And floating the barrel seems to be hit and miss with some rifles but I figure I can add some bedding compound to the fore end later if need be.

I apologize, trying to get a lot into a short post so not to run people off.
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So,,, long story short
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anyone messed with this particular model??

Thanks all,
MO Boy
 
There are some good videos on the internet and articles on pillar bedding. Rugers have the angled front action screw that may give you a challenge when drilling out for the pillar. I used pillars from Midwayusa and Devcon. You might want to bed the action first and free float the barrel before pillar bedding it. If you can machine the rear pillar or make your own to be smaller and not take out so much of the stock that would be nice.

The results I got from installing aluminum pillars, Timney trigger, bedding the action and free floating the barrel was worth work.

Good luck.
 
I use Baker piloted counter-bores for pillar bedding Rugers. Have done a bunch of them in the last ~10yrs with the Pacific Tool & Gauge pillar blocks from Midwayusa and brownells and the Baker counterbores.
 
The Hawkeye Predator barrel is already floated. Mine just required a tiny bit of sanding in one small area. It's a Creedmoor and I am extremely pleased with the accuracy.

Most of the guys with these rifles have simply modified the magazine box so that it doesn't bind, and have been pleasantly surprised with the results.

Before you go bedding, etc I would advise you to read the info here:

http://rugerforum.net/ruger-bolt-action/93323-m-77-accuracy-tip.html
 
I just noticed the part about making a "bushing" for the center screw. I would not do so. If you add a bushing there, such that you create solid contact between the action, stock, bushing, and bottom metal, you're leaving yourself open for differentiation as the stock swells or contracts. Granted, laminates aren't as bad as solid wood stocks, but it's still wood. The center screw should just act as a hanger for the trigger guard, with the forward and rear action screws doing the real work.

Two points define a line, three points define a plane. If you pillar bedded the center mounting screw, you'd end up with uneven action pressure because TWO will be in line, then the other will be pushing or pulling out of line on the bottom of the action. I only run my center screw in tight enough to hold without backing out.
 
Thanks for all the info guys! I really appreciate it.

On the center screw.... would it possibly be better to not thread it into the receiver, and have a "headed nut" so to speak in the wood for the screw to tighten up the trigger guard?

Thanks again guys!

And I will definitely check that thread out in the Ruger forum.
 
I'm sure it'd be possible, not sure that I'd consider it necessary though.

The common binary pillar system is a bit contradictory to the Ruger design (heavy on the angled front, then lighter and equally torqued for both trigger guard screws, but a more conventional 35-45inlb in the rear pillar with the Ruger standard 80-90inlb front, and 20-25inlb on the middle screw seems to work for me.

I suppose it's worth mentioning, that 80-90in.lbs. across a 45degree action screw is only 55-65in.lbs. normalized torque (as if it were perpendicular to the action).
 


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