Ruger m77 mkii?
- Thread starter zr600
- Start date
Varminterror
New member
Grab about $150 and take your pick. You can have a trigger job done, or buy a Jard, Spec Tech, or Timney trigger for about the same cost. I have had all of the above, I like the Timney, Jard, Trigger Job on factory trigger, then Spec Tech - in that order.
Free floating, pillar blocking, and glass bedding will help any bolt action rifle model on the market - the Ruger M77 MkII included. Not all gunsmiths will do that work on Ruger's, but it's not supremely difficult even to do yourself.
Whether you want a different stock is up to you. If you want a new stock, there are options on the market. Is it a synthetic stock or a factory walnut? If you have a synthetic and want a more attractive yet inexpensive upgrade, then a Boyd's, Stocky's, or Richard's Microfit laminate is a good option - also if you have a factory walnut and you want an attractive laminate you won't mind beating around. If you want something elaborate and more expensive, McMillan does offer some of their stocks with Ruger inlets. The sky is the limit - my wife and I are having a couple of select grade turkish walnut stocks duplicated from pattern stocks next spring for a set of our Ruger M77 Hawkeye's that will total out over $1500 each before they ever get strapped to the rifle, on the other hand, she's bedding another one of her Ruger Hawkeye's into a Boyd's Prairie Hunter right now as a beat around rifle.
Free floating, pillar blocking, and glass bedding will help any bolt action rifle model on the market - the Ruger M77 MkII included. Not all gunsmiths will do that work on Ruger's, but it's not supremely difficult even to do yourself.
Whether you want a different stock is up to you. If you want a new stock, there are options on the market. Is it a synthetic stock or a factory walnut? If you have a synthetic and want a more attractive yet inexpensive upgrade, then a Boyd's, Stocky's, or Richard's Microfit laminate is a good option - also if you have a factory walnut and you want an attractive laminate you won't mind beating around. If you want something elaborate and more expensive, McMillan does offer some of their stocks with Ruger inlets. The sky is the limit - my wife and I are having a couple of select grade turkish walnut stocks duplicated from pattern stocks next spring for a set of our Ruger M77 Hawkeye's that will total out over $1500 each before they ever get strapped to the rifle, on the other hand, she's bedding another one of her Ruger Hawkeye's into a Boyd's Prairie Hunter right now as a beat around rifle.
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I put a Timney in mine, bedded the action and first inch or two of the barrel. Excellent shooter. Mine is a left handed, stainless 30-06 with the black laminate stock. The Timney takes some hand fitting of the safety. Take your time. Can't stress that enough. You will likely be pulling it out of the stock and putting it back in quite a few times. You'll need some small files for this. Leave the Dremel in it's case.
Hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine.
Hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine.
Bearcat 74
New member
I've done a trigger job on all my Rugers, they are very easy to work on. I also floated the barrel and bedded the lug and tang on mine.
Bedding and free float+ing on my rugers comes before I ever fire them in order to not waste time and components in trying to tune a load.
#1 issue on Rugers- make sure that the magainze box is freefloating, remove entirely or only have the center screw finger nail tight. You should be able to drop the floor plate and easily wiggle the magazine box. If you are pushing up on the center of the action( if can not wiggle the mag box, stressing the action) this will equal flyers in your groups, and often make the gun impossible to tune.
#2 Bed the action fully, and the tang of a Ruger can really benefit from a pillar, make one out of copper tubing if you can, anything simple can work. I have also had great luck with making a flat spacer that the tang sits on(similar to a browning a bolt tang spacer) out of 3/32 stainless steel sheeting, trimming it with tin snips the filing it or using a dremel(wear safety glasses). For giggles and grins, several times I have trimmed a Wal mart gift card to fit under the tang, and behind the recoil lug under the action that raises the action up off the stock. Then put some release agent(clear shoe polish, Hornady sizing wax, Imperial sizing wax, Johnson's paste wax) on the tang and bedded the tang with quick drying epoxy(JB Weld). Many use this technique as a permanent fix. This got the gun to shooting 5/8" to 3/4" after of course free floating that magazine box. I had found deals on Ruger 7x57 mauser and a Ruger 280 Remington, wanted to go and hunt with them. Also, took about 30 minutes to freefloat the barrel with Drum sanders on a 12" drill bit extension used with 1/2" variable speed drill. All work took about 2 hours and produced some really fine shooting rifles.
#3 Ruger factory triggers stink. You an hone them if you are so inclined, replacement with a timney is advised. If you ever send the action back to the factory, they will put a factory trigger back on the action. The best Ruger barrels that have ever been made are being put on Ruger rifles made today. Ruger charges around $200 for a new SS barrel(last time I checked). They however will not change calibers from what was originally put on the rifle.
Boyd's laminate stocks with their fantastic Checkering makes Rugers look like a show piece.
Link to Ruger trigger jobs:
Link to trigger job on Rugers
http://centerfirecentral.com/77trigger.html
Good luck
#1 issue on Rugers- make sure that the magainze box is freefloating, remove entirely or only have the center screw finger nail tight. You should be able to drop the floor plate and easily wiggle the magazine box. If you are pushing up on the center of the action( if can not wiggle the mag box, stressing the action) this will equal flyers in your groups, and often make the gun impossible to tune.
#2 Bed the action fully, and the tang of a Ruger can really benefit from a pillar, make one out of copper tubing if you can, anything simple can work. I have also had great luck with making a flat spacer that the tang sits on(similar to a browning a bolt tang spacer) out of 3/32 stainless steel sheeting, trimming it with tin snips the filing it or using a dremel(wear safety glasses). For giggles and grins, several times I have trimmed a Wal mart gift card to fit under the tang, and behind the recoil lug under the action that raises the action up off the stock. Then put some release agent(clear shoe polish, Hornady sizing wax, Imperial sizing wax, Johnson's paste wax) on the tang and bedded the tang with quick drying epoxy(JB Weld). Many use this technique as a permanent fix. This got the gun to shooting 5/8" to 3/4" after of course free floating that magazine box. I had found deals on Ruger 7x57 mauser and a Ruger 280 Remington, wanted to go and hunt with them. Also, took about 30 minutes to freefloat the barrel with Drum sanders on a 12" drill bit extension used with 1/2" variable speed drill. All work took about 2 hours and produced some really fine shooting rifles.
#3 Ruger factory triggers stink. You an hone them if you are so inclined, replacement with a timney is advised. If you ever send the action back to the factory, they will put a factory trigger back on the action. The best Ruger barrels that have ever been made are being put on Ruger rifles made today. Ruger charges around $200 for a new SS barrel(last time I checked). They however will not change calibers from what was originally put on the rifle.
Boyd's laminate stocks with their fantastic Checkering makes Rugers look like a show piece.
Link to Ruger trigger jobs:
Link to trigger job on Rugers
http://centerfirecentral.com/77trigger.html
Good luck
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George Foster
Member
I have two Mark II's in 243 and 6mm, both have the actions and chamber area fully bedded and then free floated all the way to the tip. I have Timneys in both and they both give me very good accuracy with 75 - 100gr bullets the way they are setup.