Savage 110 Re-barrel suggestions.
- Thread starter SDM
- Start date
devildogandboy
Member
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
Interesting.
Half the fun sometimes is rebarreling a rife to some other caliber and enjoying the process.
I have a Stevens 200. Does anyone know what shank size it is? I notice Shilen has ready-made Savage barrels, but need to know the shank size.
small shank, i know, i have both the long and short action Stevens. small shank. keeps me busy in my retirement with an good hobby i love. working on these is more fun than work!
Interesting.
Half the fun sometimes is rebarreling a rife to some other caliber and enjoying the process.
I have a Stevens 200. Does anyone know what shank size it is? I notice Shilen has ready-made Savage barrels, but need to know the shank size.
small shank, i know, i have both the long and short action Stevens. small shank. keeps me busy in my retirement with an good hobby i love. working on these is more fun than work!
devildogandboy
Member
Originally Posted By: SDMWill I be able to use .30-06 sized with the .243 bolt?
yes you will.
you might consider the 270 as a long range rifle, i don't have one myself but people say it's a flat shooter, or the 25-06 would be good also and they all use the same bolt!
yes you will.
you might consider the 270 as a long range rifle, i don't have one myself but people say it's a flat shooter, or the 25-06 would be good also and they all use the same bolt!
Bob Tobergte
New member
6mm06, Stevens have small ahank. Any savage 10 or 110 has small shank other then WSSM actions.
I also feel the same as 'devildogandboy'
I also feel the same as 'devildogandboy'
Last edited:
Stay with the 6.5! Why? BC and SD of the bullets. You will be able to accurately shoot anything from 100 to 1000 yards with those long, slender 140/142 gr bullets.
Pick your bullet. Find the case that will provide the speed with which you want to deliver the bullet at. Then find the dies.
6.5x55 is superb. Remember....ALL of the data in the reloading manuals is designed for Swede or Carcano actions, NOT a modern action.
Cheap and GOOD brass is available. Not many people realize this, but the two cheapest Lapua brass cartridges are....223 and 6.5x55!!!!
Dies - pick a brand, they are all readily available.
The x284 cartridges are nice, but the cases are expensive and hard to find all the time.
Do NOT swap ammo between your M96 and new rifle.
Pick your bullet. Find the case that will provide the speed with which you want to deliver the bullet at. Then find the dies.
6.5x55 is superb. Remember....ALL of the data in the reloading manuals is designed for Swede or Carcano actions, NOT a modern action.
Cheap and GOOD brass is available. Not many people realize this, but the two cheapest Lapua brass cartridges are....223 and 6.5x55!!!!
Dies - pick a brand, they are all readily available.
The x284 cartridges are nice, but the cases are expensive and hard to find all the time.
Do NOT swap ammo between your M96 and new rifle.
6mm06
Well-known member
How difficult is the Stevens rebarrel process?
The reason I'm asking is that I have been thinking for quite a while of rebarreling my .223 to a 6x45. I could have my gunsmith do it, but curious how hard / easy it might be as a do-it-yourself project, and exactly what tools would I need?
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
How difficult is the Stevens rebarrel process?
The reason I'm asking is that I have been thinking for quite a while of rebarreling my .223 to a 6x45. I could have my gunsmith do it, but curious how hard / easy it might be as a do-it-yourself project, and exactly what tools would I need?
Barrel nut wrench (Google McRee Precision - there is not a better barrel nut wrench made) and a go gauge.
A barrel block and action block is sometimes necessary.
Takes 10 to 15 minutes, start to finish, including cleaning the threads/lug area of the action. I always replace the factory recoil lug with a ground stainless that I purchase from Jim Briggs of Northland Shooters Supply. Superb gentleman...you will not find anybody better to do business with. He also has a selection of barrels - aftermarket and factory - available.
I do check the face of the barrel nut and the face of the action by gently dragging them over 600 to 800 grit sandpaper. Lay the sandpaper on a piece of smooth flooring granite (3/8" thicker or more) or a piece of thick glass. You are not squaring the action or nut face, just removing any burrs that may exist.
I also check the lug contact are between the bolt & action prior to removing the original barrel. Blacken the contact areas of the bolt lug, insert an empty case, open and close the bolt several times. Look at how much of the black is missing from the bolt lugs. If less than 80%, I use "Flitz" to lap the bolt lugs to 95% contact. The floating bolt head helps the Savage/Stevens out quite a bit, but a full or nearly full lug contact is better.
Pick up some STOS lube(Ponsness Warren) - synthetic lube - NO petroluem products!!! - and lightly lube the lug contact area and bolt raceways. While you have everything disassembled, might as well pull your bolt apart. Spray the interior of the bolt body, firing pin assembly, etc...with carb cleaner. Push a paper towel down the inside of the bolt body and spray out with carb cleaner again. Lube moving parts of bolt body, firing pin, etc, with STOS. You will not believe the difference this will make.
How difficult is the Stevens rebarrel process?
The reason I'm asking is that I have been thinking for quite a while of rebarreling my .223 to a 6x45. I could have my gunsmith do it, but curious how hard / easy it might be as a do-it-yourself project, and exactly what tools would I need?
Barrel nut wrench (Google McRee Precision - there is not a better barrel nut wrench made) and a go gauge.
A barrel block and action block is sometimes necessary.
Takes 10 to 15 minutes, start to finish, including cleaning the threads/lug area of the action. I always replace the factory recoil lug with a ground stainless that I purchase from Jim Briggs of Northland Shooters Supply. Superb gentleman...you will not find anybody better to do business with. He also has a selection of barrels - aftermarket and factory - available.
I do check the face of the barrel nut and the face of the action by gently dragging them over 600 to 800 grit sandpaper. Lay the sandpaper on a piece of smooth flooring granite (3/8" thicker or more) or a piece of thick glass. You are not squaring the action or nut face, just removing any burrs that may exist.
I also check the lug contact are between the bolt & action prior to removing the original barrel. Blacken the contact areas of the bolt lug, insert an empty case, open and close the bolt several times. Look at how much of the black is missing from the bolt lugs. If less than 80%, I use "Flitz" to lap the bolt lugs to 95% contact. The floating bolt head helps the Savage/Stevens out quite a bit, but a full or nearly full lug contact is better.
Pick up some STOS lube(Ponsness Warren) - synthetic lube - NO petroluem products!!! - and lightly lube the lug contact area and bolt raceways. While you have everything disassembled, might as well pull your bolt apart. Spray the interior of the bolt body, firing pin assembly, etc...with carb cleaner. Push a paper towel down the inside of the bolt body and spray out with carb cleaner again. Lube moving parts of bolt body, firing pin, etc, with STOS. You will not believe the difference this will make.
Bob Tobergte
New member
EZ peasy just like acloco says. Only differance for me is I use a full length sized case for headspace setting. Always have & always will.
;-)
;-)
Joe M
New member
My choices would be, 6.5x284, 280, 30-06, 6mm06. Really good bullets available in those calibers for long range and hunting. I probably would not go with the 6.5x55.It is an awesome round but it would be really easy to mix up your ammo for the two rifles and that would cause a problem.
Bob Tobergte
New member
6mm06, you will see how EZ rebarrelin is on youtube. Just put in 'rebarrel a Savage' in search. Njoy.
Bob Tobergte
New member
Good luck to ya..........
SDM
New member
I've decided to go with a .25-06. I'm thinking 26" and a contour one notch above sporter weight. Those may change depending on cost. Any suggestions for a stock around $200. I know there are better but I'm not putting that much money in this thing. Thank's for all your help so far.
Flat Land Coaxer
New member
Whats NSS? I am interested in two of those barrels in that list. Natchez shooting supplies? I NEED TO KNOW!!! haha