First off: Ditch the bipod while trying to determine a rifle's accuracy capabilities (action and stock). It's just another external variable that can help screw things up. Shoot the rifle off good stable front and rear bags/rests that hold the rifle firmly in place but where the stock isn't flexed or stressed in any way to be on point of aim.
See how it does in that situation without the bipod before you start performing brain surgery on the rifle.
I'm not a Savage fan at all, so I have no idea how an action should be torqued for good accuracy. Normal bolt action torquing does not do it's best when both front and rear screws are torqued the same. Normal is to torque the front screw more than the rear (which should be snug but not as tight as the front screw). This issue is also dependent on how well the action lays in the factory stock. Check for rigidity of the action in the stock without the action screws. Does the barreled action flex/move considerably in the stock without the action screws or does it lay flat and fairly stable in the stock?
Is the scope good? Could it possibly have parallax at 200 yards that you may further contribute to by an inconsistent shooting technique (cheek weld, etc.)?
Are you shooting bullets that should perform well beyond 100 yards or are they possibly marginal at extended ranges in terms of barrel twist?
Just a few things to look at initially. After you figure out if the rifle is performing better or is still not shooting to your liking, then you can start eliminating issues. Trying to do this with the bipod in place is possibly like chasing your tail at this point. Is it the rifle or the bipod?
