I am going to try and paint my Savage 12FV stock and am looking for a way to stiffen the fore grip. What methods have been used successfully in the past? Anybody have pictures? I am thinking about using some carbon arrow shafts to add strength and using some type of epoxy to seal them in. Anybody have a recommendation?
Savage Stock Stifining Help
- Thread starter ACLakey
- Start date
IDBob
New member
That's certainly one way, some folks are putting in Chevy push rods and some folks are cutting up old fishing poles and using those.
Keep in mind that you really need to rough up the serfaces and installing some pins thru sidewise may also be a good idea. The stuff lots of those injection molded stocks are made of is a natural release agent and epoxy bedding materials may have a hard time sticking to it.
Keep in mind that you really need to rough up the serfaces and installing some pins thru sidewise may also be a good idea. The stuff lots of those injection molded stocks are made of is a natural release agent and epoxy bedding materials may have a hard time sticking to it.
rockinbbar
New member
Soak it in some Viagra solution...?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Forgive me...I couldn't resist. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
Forgive me...I couldn't resist. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
texag93
New member
The Remington Model 7 Predator is the same way. The fore end is thin enough that it will flex. It has some raised webbing in it to help but its still pretty flimsy. I would thing a couple of carbon arrows placed parallel in the barrel channel and then Brownells Glass Bed to fill in would stiffen it up pretty good. As stated, rouigh up everything in the channel real well before so the epoxy will stick.
I cut out the baffles in the front and laid in some pieces of carbon glass arrow shafting, then filled it in with the liquid Accraglass. But first, I used a dremel saw blade to undercut some spots along the barrel channel to provide for a better "mechanical" retention of the epoxy. The advice concerning epoxy not sticking well to the stock is correct. The stocks have a waxy type surface and while using acetone to clean it will help, providing for a mechanical retention of the epoxy is best.
I put two layers of duct tape under my barrel to provide for clearance and to center the barrel in the forend groove.
I put two layers of duct tape under my barrel to provide for clearance and to center the barrel in the forend groove.
sleddogg
New member
Hi guys /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
This is one i have a problem with. I have heard about the flex in the Savage stock, and the factory stock on my Savage will flex if I push hard enough on it while holding the barrel.
BUT I cannot believe the factory stock which is full floated and pillar bedded could cause any problems to anyone.
The little Savage I have shoots better than anything I own off the bench or sticks. Nice round groups with no stringing. Zero alterations.
Savage stocks will flex if you push hard sideways on 'em, but typically I don't force the barrel against the stock while shooting. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
Beef it up if you want, doubt you will notice a difference. Savage floating/pillar bedded factory stock is as reliable and repeatable as anything I've used so far.
Better than most.
This is one i have a problem with. I have heard about the flex in the Savage stock, and the factory stock on my Savage will flex if I push hard enough on it while holding the barrel.
BUT I cannot believe the factory stock which is full floated and pillar bedded could cause any problems to anyone.
The little Savage I have shoots better than anything I own off the bench or sticks. Nice round groups with no stringing. Zero alterations.
Savage stocks will flex if you push hard sideways on 'em, but typically I don't force the barrel against the stock while shooting. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
Beef it up if you want, doubt you will notice a difference. Savage floating/pillar bedded factory stock is as reliable and repeatable as anything I've used so far.
Better than most.
What Sleddog said.
I have two synthetic stocked Savages (FP10 223 and 110 .338 WM) the .223 shoots under 1/2 moa and the .338 shoots 3/4 moa regularly w/unaltered factory tupperware stocks.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Regards,
hm
I have two synthetic stocked Savages (FP10 223 and 110 .338 WM) the .223 shoots under 1/2 moa and the .338 shoots 3/4 moa regularly w/unaltered factory tupperware stocks.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Regards,
hm
rockinbbar
New member
My thoughts exactly.
I have 3 of them & the flexing doesn't factor in on accuracy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
I have 3 of them & the flexing doesn't factor in on accuracy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
IDBob
New member
I ran a small gunsmith shop for quite a while and made a bunch of money fixing stuff that wasn't broke. None of the injection molded stocks work well with the epoxy materials that are on the market.
Several of the posters above are giving you good advice about the way the floated barrel piller bedded injection molded stocks shoot.
If you are unhappy with the flex or if you feel that it's effecting groups or changing point of aim then you might be better off putting a Boyds Laminated stock on it. These are not to expensive and both Boyds and Cabela's sells them at reasonable prices. They are one of the stiffest stocks made and even look good to many folks.
I'm not a fan of injection molded stocks, but I've not seen one that wouldn't shoot pretty good groups. A few years ago I bought a Remington 700 muzzle loader with Remington's injection molded stock and you could squeeze it tight to the barrel about anywhere, but it shot great groups. If these stocks effected the performance of the rifles being sold in them I doubt if factories would continue selling them.
Several of the posters above are giving you good advice about the way the floated barrel piller bedded injection molded stocks shoot.
If you are unhappy with the flex or if you feel that it's effecting groups or changing point of aim then you might be better off putting a Boyds Laminated stock on it. These are not to expensive and both Boyds and Cabela's sells them at reasonable prices. They are one of the stiffest stocks made and even look good to many folks.
I'm not a fan of injection molded stocks, but I've not seen one that wouldn't shoot pretty good groups. A few years ago I bought a Remington 700 muzzle loader with Remington's injection molded stock and you could squeeze it tight to the barrel about anywhere, but it shot great groups. If these stocks effected the performance of the rifles being sold in them I doubt if factories would continue selling them.
Quote:
Hi guys /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
This is one i have a problem with. I have heard about the flex in the Savage stock, and the factory stock on my Savage will flex if I push hard enough on it while holding the barrel.
BUT I cannot believe the factory stock which is full floated and pillar bedded could cause any problems to anyone.
The little Savage I have shoots better than anything I own off the bench or sticks. Nice round groups with no stringing. Zero alterations.
Savage stocks will flex if you push hard sideways on 'em, but typically I don't force the barrel against the stock while shooting. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
Beef it up if you want, doubt you will notice a difference. Savage floating/pillar bedded factory stock is as reliable and repeatable as anything I've used so far.
Better than most.
I decided to stiffen up my stocks because of my use of a Harris swivel bipod. I noticed that as I would level the gun, the forend would twist, and I would often have to make a couple of attempts to level it to compensate for the twisting. I could have loosened up the bipod a bit so the forend wouldn't twist, but stiffening up the forend seemed the better idea.
Hi guys /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
This is one i have a problem with. I have heard about the flex in the Savage stock, and the factory stock on my Savage will flex if I push hard enough on it while holding the barrel.
BUT I cannot believe the factory stock which is full floated and pillar bedded could cause any problems to anyone.
The little Savage I have shoots better than anything I own off the bench or sticks. Nice round groups with no stringing. Zero alterations.
Savage stocks will flex if you push hard sideways on 'em, but typically I don't force the barrel against the stock while shooting. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
Beef it up if you want, doubt you will notice a difference. Savage floating/pillar bedded factory stock is as reliable and repeatable as anything I've used so far.
Better than most.
I decided to stiffen up my stocks because of my use of a Harris swivel bipod. I noticed that as I would level the gun, the forend would twist, and I would often have to make a couple of attempts to level it to compensate for the twisting. I could have loosened up the bipod a bit so the forend wouldn't twist, but stiffening up the forend seemed the better idea.
Quote:
I ran a small gunsmith shop for quite a while and made a bunch of money fixing stuff that wasn't broke. None of the injection molded stocks work well with the epoxy materials that are on the market.
Bob, that was a good one, I needed a good laugh.
I too have been guilty of filling the forearm. I'm working on a Howa in 223 right now that just won't shoot less than 2" and I have stiffened the forearm with 1/4" stainless rods and marine tex, bedded it, changed scopes. The only thing that I have not done is to full length bed the entire barrel...I think that it's a waste of time and money.
I am going to advise my brother to buy a Boyd's stock for it or just save it for the election riots.
I ran a small gunsmith shop for quite a while and made a bunch of money fixing stuff that wasn't broke. None of the injection molded stocks work well with the epoxy materials that are on the market.
Bob, that was a good one, I needed a good laugh.
I too have been guilty of filling the forearm. I'm working on a Howa in 223 right now that just won't shoot less than 2" and I have stiffened the forearm with 1/4" stainless rods and marine tex, bedded it, changed scopes. The only thing that I have not done is to full length bed the entire barrel...I think that it's a waste of time and money.
I am going to advise my brother to buy a Boyd's stock for it or just save it for the election riots.
Quote:
They are full floated stiffineng will do nothing. The problem I have with my Savage 10 is the dang action screws keep working loose after it has been fired a while That effects accuracy BIG TIME.
It sounds like your action, including the recoil lug, needs bedding. You can roughen up the surface of the stock where the action sits, drill holes at angles. Clean with acetone and put a skim coat of epoxy bedding compound in the stock. The holes are to allow the epoxy to seep down into them and provide a mechanical hold on the epoxy, if and when it no longer sticks to the plastic stock. It's not perfect, but it works.
Does your gunstock have pillars? If so, they should help if the action screws are tightened down. Of course, I have seen some Savage stocks where the pillars did not run the full length between the action and the trigger guard. Those should probably be replaced with ones which do.
They are full floated stiffineng will do nothing. The problem I have with my Savage 10 is the dang action screws keep working loose after it has been fired a while That effects accuracy BIG TIME.
It sounds like your action, including the recoil lug, needs bedding. You can roughen up the surface of the stock where the action sits, drill holes at angles. Clean with acetone and put a skim coat of epoxy bedding compound in the stock. The holes are to allow the epoxy to seep down into them and provide a mechanical hold on the epoxy, if and when it no longer sticks to the plastic stock. It's not perfect, but it works.
Does your gunstock have pillars? If so, they should help if the action screws are tightened down. Of course, I have seen some Savage stocks where the pillars did not run the full length between the action and the trigger guard. Those should probably be replaced with ones which do.