shotshell reloading
- Thread starter eclubine
- Start date
SodakJim
New member
Locate as many good reloadable hulls of a type that matches your shooting needs. Win AA, Remington RXP, etc. The shot, powder, wads, and primers will depend on what load your trying to make.
First step on most reloaders is the sizing and de-priming operation.
Next, the hull is primed.
Charge with powder from a powder measure or charge bar.
Seat the wad.
Charge with shot.
Start the the crimp.
Finish crimp and form the radius on the loaded round.
Various loaders will be slightly different on what is done in a stage, but all these operations get done in the end.
You may not save money in the long run, but you are very likely to shoot more, and get more out of your shotgun sports. Start with a single stage press like the MEC 600 Jr. It can make first rate loads if you pay attention to the loading manuals. Don't experiment or make substitutions of components not in the published data.
If you find you like shotshell reloading, you can move up to the progressive machines and really crank em out. I've been doing it since the late 1960s. There is alot of good used equipment on the market at ebay, and yard sales.
The photo shows 2 MEC 9000 progressive presses in 12 & 20 gauge and a MEC 600 Jr. tucked behind the left press. All the presses have Universal charge bars to keep tooling costs down.
First step on most reloaders is the sizing and de-priming operation.
Next, the hull is primed.
Charge with powder from a powder measure or charge bar.
Seat the wad.
Charge with shot.
Start the the crimp.
Finish crimp and form the radius on the loaded round.
Various loaders will be slightly different on what is done in a stage, but all these operations get done in the end.
You may not save money in the long run, but you are very likely to shoot more, and get more out of your shotgun sports. Start with a single stage press like the MEC 600 Jr. It can make first rate loads if you pay attention to the loading manuals. Don't experiment or make substitutions of components not in the published data.
If you find you like shotshell reloading, you can move up to the progressive machines and really crank em out. I've been doing it since the late 1960s. There is alot of good used equipment on the market at ebay, and yard sales.
The photo shows 2 MEC 9000 progressive presses in 12 & 20 gauge and a MEC 600 Jr. tucked behind the left press. All the presses have Universal charge bars to keep tooling costs down.
A big part depends on the volume of shooting that you do.
A key to making it cost effective is to buy components in large quantities to get price breaks.
I shoot a fair amount of trap, sporting clays and skeet.
When I work out the math I can load a box of high quality 12 gauge target loads for about $4 a box (using current component prices) compared to paying $7 to $8 for them around here or $5 for a box of lower quality promo shells.
Part of that is that over the years I have loaded enough that the reloader does not owe me anything any more.
A key to making it cost effective is to buy components in large quantities to get price breaks.
I shoot a fair amount of trap, sporting clays and skeet.
When I work out the math I can load a box of high quality 12 gauge target loads for about $4 a box (using current component prices) compared to paying $7 to $8 for them around here or $5 for a box of lower quality promo shells.
Part of that is that over the years I have loaded enough that the reloader does not owe me anything any more.
It really depends on how much shooting you are planning on doing, and what you are planning to shoot. You can definitely save money if you are planning on doing a lot of skeet shooting, or one of the other shotgun shooting sports. You just have to buy your components at the right time and place.
Or are you just shooting a few hunting shells?? If so then you can load your hunting or turkey loads on a single stage rifle press. So really what you want to do is the most important question.
Below is a picture of a Ponsness Warren Press. I have it set up for 3 Dram 1-1/8 oz. loads. For skeet and trap, and sporting clays shooting. This press spits them out pretty good. And is probably one of the better non-progressive presses. Tom.
Or are you just shooting a few hunting shells?? If so then you can load your hunting or turkey loads on a single stage rifle press. So really what you want to do is the most important question.
Below is a picture of a Ponsness Warren Press. I have it set up for 3 Dram 1-1/8 oz. loads. For skeet and trap, and sporting clays shooting. This press spits them out pretty good. And is probably one of the better non-progressive presses. Tom.
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Most press' come with everything you need except a scale and shell components.I use the MEC Sizemaster with RCBS' 502 scale.You'll need to add some powder bushings and shot bars as you go along with this one but it comes with all you need to go from 2 3/4-3" shells.If you can get past the plastic parts the Lee loader is a bargain.I hear it's good but never tried one myself.I'd suggest the Lyman manual to start.
My standard reply to shotshell questions.
If you are going to reload steel shot for waterfowl, be advised it more difficult, loads are touchier, and you most likely can't match factory performance.
You can beat factory velocity, but not with the same payload.
You can save some money, more so now since prices seem to have gone up a lot lately.
If you are going to reload steel shot for waterfowl, be advised it more difficult, loads are touchier, and you most likely can't match factory performance.
You can beat factory velocity, but not with the same payload.
You can save some money, more so now since prices seem to have gone up a lot lately.
ThanksGuys
New member
I can save quite a bit reloading for steel shot. I agree that steel loads are more "touchy". I hand weigh every powder and shot charge, so it's time consuming. Some people do every 3 or 5 charges... I honestly don't think shotshell reloading is very difficult at all, just time consuming. I can outperform factory performance in velocity with the same payloads. The patterns are also way better!! Also #B is an awesome goose load, can't get that in factory...
Shoot me a pm and i can tell you what you'll need/want to have.
Shoot me a pm and i can tell you what you'll need/want to have.
458Win
New member
To reload large size steel and lead shot just use a empty rifle primer tray. Figure out how many pellets each shell will take (if its over 100 just use 2 trays but on one tray tape off the extra holes) Makes things much MUCH easier then trying to meter it out with the shot bar.
Shotgun reloading is actually pretty easy. Started mine when I was 13. Here is what I would start out with.
1. MEC Sizemaster
2. Good reloading scale RCBS/Hornady/Forester etc
3. Lyman shotshell reloading manual
4. Universal charge bar (cost a bit more but saves A LOT if your making several different loads)
Precision reloading has a good supply of components. Also its is more cost effective to just buy a second reloader instead of changeover dies if you wish to reload a different gauge.
Shotgun reloading is actually pretty easy. Started mine when I was 13. Here is what I would start out with.
1. MEC Sizemaster
2. Good reloading scale RCBS/Hornady/Forester etc
3. Lyman shotshell reloading manual
4. Universal charge bar (cost a bit more but saves A LOT if your making several different loads)
Precision reloading has a good supply of components. Also its is more cost effective to just buy a second reloader instead of changeover dies if you wish to reload a different gauge.
derbyacresbob
Well-known member
The best part about reloading your own shotgun shells is you can reload what you want to shoot.For target shooting and hunting, if you don't reload you pretty much have to shoot what is at Wal-Mart or the local gun shops.
For clay target shooting you need to buy your components in large quantities. If you do that you can save money and you will have much better shotgun shells than the cheap promo shells you can buy at Wal-Mart.
For the heavy predator loads and waterfowl loads, I don't think you will save much money but you can reload loads that you can't buy and they are fun to reload.
When I was reloading lead "T" shot for coyotes I used a shotgun primer tray to count out the number of "T" pellets I needed. Two "T" pellets fit in each primer hole in the primer tray.
I would just scoop the primer tray into a bunch of the "T" pellets. Two pellets would stay in each hole on the primer tray and the other pellets would just roll off of the primer tray.
For clay target shooting you need to buy your components in large quantities. If you do that you can save money and you will have much better shotgun shells than the cheap promo shells you can buy at Wal-Mart.
For the heavy predator loads and waterfowl loads, I don't think you will save much money but you can reload loads that you can't buy and they are fun to reload.
When I was reloading lead "T" shot for coyotes I used a shotgun primer tray to count out the number of "T" pellets I needed. Two "T" pellets fit in each primer hole in the primer tray.
I would just scoop the primer tray into a bunch of the "T" pellets. Two pellets would stay in each hole on the primer tray and the other pellets would just roll off of the primer tray.
458Win
New member
This is the best way to meter out large shot. However a rifle primer tray works better because only 1 "BB" per primer hole
Originally Posted By: derbyacresbobThe best part about reloading your own shotgun shells is you can reload what you want to shoot.For target shooting and hunting, if you don't reload you pretty much have to shoot what is at Wal-Mart or the local gun shops.
For clay target shooting you need to buy your components in large quantities. If you do that you can save money and you will have much better shotgun shells than the cheap promo shells you can buy at Wal-Mart.
For the heavy predator loads and waterfowl loads, I don't think you will save much money but you can reload loads that you can't buy and they are fun to reload.
When I was reloading lead "T" shot for coyotes I used a shotgun primer tray to count out the number of "T" pellets I needed. Two "T" pellets fit in each primer hole in the primer tray.
I would just scoop the primer tray into a bunch of the "T" pellets. Two pellets would stay in each hole on the primer tray and the other pellets would just roll off of the primer tray.
Originally Posted By: derbyacresbobThe best part about reloading your own shotgun shells is you can reload what you want to shoot.For target shooting and hunting, if you don't reload you pretty much have to shoot what is at Wal-Mart or the local gun shops.
For clay target shooting you need to buy your components in large quantities. If you do that you can save money and you will have much better shotgun shells than the cheap promo shells you can buy at Wal-Mart.
For the heavy predator loads and waterfowl loads, I don't think you will save much money but you can reload loads that you can't buy and they are fun to reload.
When I was reloading lead "T" shot for coyotes I used a shotgun primer tray to count out the number of "T" pellets I needed. Two "T" pellets fit in each primer hole in the primer tray.
I would just scoop the primer tray into a bunch of the "T" pellets. Two pellets would stay in each hole on the primer tray and the other pellets would just roll off of the primer tray.
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AWS
Custom Accessory Maker & Retired PM Staff
Back when my X and I were shooting a lot we' buy reclaimed shot by the ton and pick up once fired AA wads fill a onion sack full and run them through the wash machine. Usually had one open keg of 700X and a full one under the bench. We actually wore out a PW 800B and had to have the factory rebuild it. Our REALLY CHEAP reloads worked just fine for 16yrd trap and skeet, we'd save the premium loads for the second shot on doubles and handicap trap.
AWS
AWS
