Sighting in 22-250

Scope crosshair distance above bore will affect point of aim.
So ther really is no rule written that would apply each rifle will have its own point.
Also a minor adjustment at say 30 yards will make inches off at 100 yards.
 
I usually start at 25 yards, to get it centered. Makes it easier.
Height above bore of the scope will make a difference.
1" adjustment at 25 yards is approximately a 4" adjustment at 100 yards. Go slowly, once you get it centered at 25, move to 100 to do your fine tuning. At least you will be close.

If you have rear screw adjustments on your mounts, use those for gross adjustments, then use scope for fine tuning.

re
 
I think in one of Jack O'Connor's books, maybe it was The Big Game Rifle, he referred to sighting in the rifle at 25 yards. He indicated that this was the normal spot in the trajectory path when the bullet, in it's upward flight, would cross over above the line of sight and that it would again cross over the line of sight downward at extended distances. The second crossing would be a function of the caliber and velocity of the bullet and he indicated that you needed to get the bullet impact at 25 yards to be exactly spot on. I think he was playing with a +-of 3" for target size as this was for big game.

That said you would always want to check the settings at longer distances. I like my 22-250 with a 50g bullet to just be around 1.5-2.0" high at 100 yards to give me the longest point blank range for varmints with a smaller target size.
 
Originally Posted By: Redhill
That said you would always want to check the settings at longer distances. I like my 22-250 with a 50g bullet to just be around 1.5-2.0" high at 100 yards to give me the longest point blank range for varmints with a smaller target size.

So what would be the longest point blank range for that setup, 200 yds ?? Ive been working on a zero for my 22-250 as well?
 
Using any of the available fine Ballistics programs, ( apps/websites/disc) or even printed copies out of some reloading books, you should be able to determine the answers to these questions. You should learn how to....yourself

Maybe the largest factor is muzzle velocity, which you'll need to know to be accurate. Get a chronograph

Even then, as Jack Roberts would probably say, there's no substitute for range time and shooting at long ranges to verify whatever the calculations say you might get.

Then as you go to longer distance shooting, you'll discover more and more that if you can't see it, you can't hit it. So you'll change reticles and scopes.

Have fun
 
I have found most ballistics programs very accurate, if you do not use the default values in them. Plug in the actual: MV, scope height, altitude, temp, etc. They are always within 1 MOA at 1000 yards in my experience, usually within 1/2 MOA.

Jack
 
Sedlak said:
Originally Posted By: Redhill
That said you would always want to check the settings at longer distances. I like my 22-250 with a 50g bullet to just be around 1.5-2.0" high at 100 yards to give me the longest point blank range for varmints with a smaller target size.

So what would be the longest point blank range for that setup, 200 yds ?? Ive been working on a zero for my 22-250 as well?
Click to expand...
If I’m on at 100 what would it be at 200 yds
 
If you are zeroed at 100 yards, center of the group(bullet impacts) on the bulleye(also where the reticle is) you will be low at 200 yards. With a traditional scope with medium to high rings. Typically center of group needs to be 0.75-1.0 high at 100 yards to have a 200 yard zero. Depending on bullet weight/velocity with a 22-250.
 
My 22-250's get zeroed at 200 yards, with 52gr HPs it lets me hold on fur to 300 yards, beyond that they get a walk.

After zeroing it I check it at 50, 100, 150 and check it shooting off sticks so I know what my rifle is going to do out in the field.
 
I'm sighted in roughly 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" high at 100 yards. Basically if I hit the target and it's one or another or close I shoot two more times, if it groups good I leave it and hunt with it. The majority of my shots are within 200 yards so either one will hit a coyote at that distance easily.
 
I zero most of my rifles at 100 yards but I zero my 22-250 with 50 gr vmaxs at 200 yards. I've found it to be point of aim point of impact at anything within 200 yards when zeroed that way.
 
My QD mount on a 22-250 bolt gun puts my scope height at 2.5” above the bore centerline. Sighting in at 50 yards also gives a 250 yard zero. 50 yards is a lot easier to sight in at than 100 and has become my go to sight in distance. Im not calling anyone out here specifically but how many people are actually shooting their rifle at 200 yards to verify that is zero vs semi educated guesses? Anyone can calculate their near and far zeros with all the ballistic apps we have available now.
 
El Jefe said:
My QD mount on a 22-250 bolt gun puts my scope height at 2.5” above the bore centerline. Sighting in at 50 yards also gives a 250 yard zero. 50 yards is a lot easier to sight in at than 100 and has become my go to sight in distance. Im not calling anyone out here specifically but how many people are actually shooting their rifle at 200 yards to verify that is zero vs semi educated guesses? Anyone can calculate their near and far zeros with all the ballistic apps we have available now.
Click to expand...
I also have come to a point where I like to zero my rifles at or near 50 yards. It'll typically give me a near zero at 200 or 250 dependent upon caliber. I do check my rifles at 100 and 200 to verify. A lot of times that "zero" at 50 will have the correct elevation at the longer ranges but will walk off one side or the other an inch or two on windage. I have very rarely had one stay in the center, right to left, at 200 that was dead on at 50.
 


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