Here's some good info I saved from another site on dyes versus stains:
Dyes and Dye-Stains
First, let me say that in all but a few cases, you will not find a suitable colorant on the retail shelf of your local home center. These colorants, like Minwax products, result in very thin and usually disappointing results in all but a handful of cases. That’s because these “stains” are a mixture of finish & color. Applying them immediately seals the wood which makes adding additional depth required to mimic authentic colors impossible. The secret here, then, is to find some material that will allow you to apply pure color to the depth you want before applying a final sealer. And, also important, is the ability of being able to reverse the color if needed. This is why I’m always going to recommend that you look at pure dyes or combination dye & stains that have NO finish added to them. They are mixed with a simple carrier (usually denatured alcohol) which evaporates, leaving just the color on and in the wood.
Different but Similar
Dyes and stains are different but similar. Both alter the color of the wood (actually the way light is reflected off the wood to our eye). However, dyes penetrate and stains tend to lay on the surface. The reason is simple.
To put them into perspective, if a particle of stain was the size of a golf ball, a particle of dye would be the size of a head of a pin! Because of this size difference, microscopic dye pigment will fall deeply into the fissures in the wood. The benefit here is that you get a much more realistic, three dimensional/natural look to the wood. Therefore, a blanched, grey stock whose pigment has been altered by chemicals and cosmo will benefit greatly from dyes which will replace the original pigment with a natural substitute. Dyes have been used for centuries but in the past 100 years, they’ve become pretty standardized and are stable, predictable, and UV resistant. In an alcohol base, they are also “NGR” colorants. NGR stands for “non grain-raising” eliminating any additional sanding unlike water based dyes which do raise the grain.
The only proper way to apply dyes on our projects is in an alcohol base carrier. The alcohol evaporates quickly leaving only the dye particles deep in our stocks. If the color isn’t deep enough, apply another “coat”. If it’s too dark, simply scrub the stock with alcohol to remove a layer. It’s that simple. When you’ve gotten it to a satisfactory color, your next step will be to cover it with some type of authentic finish. Tung Oil Finish or shellac will work fine here but that the subject of another essay already on this site.
Now there are times when very dark woods like Walnut or Mahogany have severely damaged. It these cases, a dye may not provide the depth of color that is required and a dye/stain may be more appropriate. Dye/stains are usually in a petroleum based carrier similar to mineral spirits. This is because the stain particles are much heavier and would like to precipitate out. Mineral Spirit bases hold them in suspension much better than alcohol. But as the name implies, dyes are also added to add to the color depth. Dye/Stains have the ability to change one wood to look like another and have been used for over a century. It might surprise you to know that many antique “Mahogany” or “Cherry” pieces are really Poplar pieces dye-stained to resemble the more expensive cousins. Like the dyes, dye-stains can be applied in multiple coats or removed by simply rubbing with mineral spirits and a clean rag. Finally, like dyes, dye-stains are left on their own as the base evaporates and will require a finish to protect them.
Now, the problem is that you will not find dyes or dye-stains on the shelf at your local Home Depot or Loews. Although professionals have been using them for over a century, you’ll have to look toward a specialty woodworking store or a very well stocked paint store. Today, we also have the benefit of the internet.
To save you time and headaches, I’d like to point you to one particular brand which meets both of your requirements. Behlen brand finishes are essentially commercial colorants packaged for the retail market. Their dyes are called “Solarlux” and the dye-stains are called “15 Minute Stain”. While there are others, I can tell you from ten years of professional experience that these will work for you. They go a very long way, too, so a pint of dye will do 20 stocks with similar results from the dye-stain. And the colors they offer will more than likely help you obtain that just-before-the-cosmo-dunk look we are trying to obtain. You’ll find them online with a color chart at places like Woodcraft Stores. Try doing a “Google” search for Behlen and you’ll be successful. You can certainly combine these materials to customize them for a particular color. You can also “layer” them applying one colored dye as a base and another colored dye-stain above. This is called “building a finish”. And, dyes can be added (in small quantities) to the clear finishes to tone them. Be SURE you wear gloves. Latex is fine for alcohol based materials but the mineral spirits will eat them up. Nitrile will work better but are not perfect.
Practice, Practice, Practice!!
Finally, the biggest mistake most guys make is that they jump into a project without experimenting. If you do this the results will be 100% unpredictable and just about 100% disappointing. You must….and I stress….MUST experiment with these new tools you’re using. Once you’ve become comfortable with them, however, you’ll never ever finish any wood project with retail-off-the-shelf colorants again.
Rome
