tanning oil

Lance, do you mix that with hot water or put it on hide straight? Man, there's one in every crowd. They should book yu out there in Vegas, bet you even write your own jokes.
 
My biased opinion is that Rittel's Super Soft is the best for finished hides.
I've tried many others and never had the results I have with his, and I'm averaging close to 500 hides a year going through here.
There's was a right up a while back in Break Through magazine about Bruce's oil being atomly charged to take to the skins at the ph level they do, making it stand out from the other oils available, and commercial tanneries around the globe rely on it.
 
Quote:
Lance, do you mix that with hot water or put it on hide straight? Man, there's one in every crowd. They should book yu out there in Vegas, bet you even write your own jokes.




I apply it straight to the skin in liberal amounts. It's much easier to apply if the Bikini top is removed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Sorry Larry. Cant help myself. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
 
Thanks, Jim, that's what I expected. It is good stuff, nice odor, not real greasy. I have some tanning oil #1 laying around that I plan on using up and I just ordered a small amount of Protal to try since it is a little cheaper. After the experimentation I'm pretty sure I'll stay with the super soft.
 
I don't think you'll like the odor that comes with the Protal, not to mention the much needed breaking after it's absorbed. It is the cheapest in the ranks so I guess that stands for something.

If your looking to save money, the Pro Plus oil is just over a dollar cheaper by the quart. By the gallon your back up to Super Softs price, so you just as well get the better oil for the same money.

Pro Plus is good oil, but it is mixed 2to1 with water. That benefits the duration of your supplies and the amount you can do with it. But I think your swapping volume for quality there.
Also the watered down aspect of it, I found required double oiling on anything thicker then a bobcat.

One more pump for Super Soft...
This oil requiring to be applied straight increases the drying time, but lessens the amount of breaking required.
The slower a hide drys the softer it will be..1
And 2...your applying a lot more oil by not watering it down first, which multiplies the effects were oiling to begin with.
I can apply Super Soft to a hide and walk away. Pro Plus, needs to be tended to soon after because it will dry quick and require more breaking as it does dry.
 
Jim your right on about the drying thing. It takes these coyotes I'm tanning about fourty eight hours to completely dry, but they do break really easy but I have to work them for about eight hours off and on. Bruce told me if I would use saw dust to absorb the water after the oil sweats in the hide will dry more evenly therefore making the breaking time shorter. It's just so time consuming since the hide is different thickness all over. I may buy a Dakota four from a guy getting out of the tax. business and try my hand at shaving them to a consistent thickness, but with the softness I'm getting it seems like it may be a waste of a couple hundred bucks. Also, a tumbler or an old dryer would be nice.
 
If you've got the cash, and/or connections to a flesher Larry, do it.

Not only can you thin the hides down, but once you get good enough to move those guards around you can flesh the micro thin membrane of a coyote off in 10 -15 minutes.

A very good investment.
 


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