Vortex optics reticle cant

MPFD

Well-known member
I bought my first Vortex scope and I'm not sure what I think. It is a midwayusa special, Viper 6-20x44 SFP. It's pretty clear, but the cross hairs aren't square to the top turret. I can level my gun all the way across on the lead sled, then I level the scope resting my bubble on the top turret (with the cap off). Cross hairs cant left. If I square them up in my vision the bubble is hard left in the level. I called Vortex today and they asked me a bunch of questions and answered them all and they agree'd it shouldn't be canted. Then they transfer me to customer service and he tells me that I need to set it up so the gun is level and plumb my vertical cross hair on something straight up and down pretty far off in the distance and not worry about the turret being level. I know this is how I've done other lower power scopes, but that leaves the turret pretty far off level. I'm trying to put together something for longer range here. Is that not gonna hurt my dope at all? As long as the cross hairs are vertical in my line of sight the turrets don't matter if they are level or not? Opinions...
 
How does that work with an AR receiver and a one piece base? The base is level across the top when the receiver is level, I checked that. Also, is that instructions to leveling an anti-cant device on the scope?
 
It would work if the surface under the scope turret housing is level, same as squaring up from a picatinny rail on a bolt gun.
Yes, the plumb line is for setting up an anti-cant level attached to the scope tube, such as a Holland or Vortex.
 
The only issue I see there is the one piece mount has 20 MOA built into it and the surface of the base under the scope is not level.
 
It should still be level side to side. Hmm I guess I always leveled of the turret never thought about doing it this way. How far out should the lines be?
 
On my leupolds and weavers I've always leveled off the turret and reticles are straight up and down.
 
Originally Posted By: MPFDOn my leupolds and weavers I've always leveled off the turret and reticles are straight up and down.

i do this for all my optics - including my vortexes - level the bases/mounts first, secure that level point in the vise and then level the scope to match with from the elevation turret (cap off)

while i can appreciate them wanting to make sure you took every option available, this is not somethign that can be diagnosed over the phone.
i would call back, ask for a RMA and send it in. if the CS person balks, tell them you're sending it in for inspection and would like the tech/QC department to go over it. be firm but polite.

i used to setup scopes with the plumb bob trick, but once i went to using a leveling kit (i have the weaver scope mounting kit with the levels, fat wrench and lapping bars) i only use a plum bob to verify the final result. using a level is WAAAAAY easier than playing the guessing game, and i get much better results.
 
Originally Posted By: Plant.OneOriginally Posted By: MPFDOn my leupolds and weavers I've always leveled off the turret and reticles are straight up and down.

i do this for all my optics - including my vortexes - level the bases/mounts first, secure that level point in the vise and then level the scope to match with from the elevation turret (cap off)

while i can appreciate them wanting to make sure you took every option available, this is not somethign that can be diagnosed over the phone.
i would call back, ask for a RMA and send it in. if the CS person balks, tell them you're sending it in for inspection and would like the tech/QC department to go over it. be firm but polite.

i used to setup scopes with the plumb bob trick, but once i went to using a leveling kit (i have the weaver scope mounting kit with the levels, fat wrench and lapping bars) i only use a plum bob to verify the final result. using a level is WAAAAAY easier than playing the guessing game, and i get much better results.

I think you have the "plumb bob trick"'and the scope leveling confused.

*
 
I have had two of my vortex scopes go in for the crosshairs being canted. The first time the guy actually called me back and accused me of tightening down the rings to tight. I just laughed and told him to keep the pos and refund my money but they ended up fixing it. The second scope was also a viper pst and every time you shot you could actually see the crosshairs going from left to right.
 
I can't say I'm impressed with their quality. I know it's an older scope, but it's a viper so that should be the better model.
 


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