Washer solution to free float?

Str8 Shooter

Str8 Shooter

New member
I have a Savage with a synthetic stock that flexes and touches the barrel a bit at the end of the forearm. I put a washer under the barrel at the front action screw to give more clearance and it seems to work, but my question is... Is this a viable solution or is there a better/ more accurate way?
 
I put a .010" shim in the same place on my Ruger77/44mag and it went from a 5" group to 1"-1 1/2". I figured for that caliber at 100 yards that was very good. I don't see where doing that could hurt any. An easy fix,imo.
 
Use a dremmel to cut out the "ribs" in that little channel in the forend. Cut out a piece of 3/8" steel rod and bed it in with epoxy material.

I did that to my factory stock and it stiffened up remarkably well.
 
I had a Savage 110 in 7mm mag that would not keep groups after 2-3 shots with the synthetic stock. With bore site installed the POI would increase 3" with the stock installed vs. removed. I dremeled out a channel in the front of the stock for the barrel so that it was only lightly touching, POI went down 8" at 100 yards and it doesn't drift as it gets warm now.
 
Not the best idea but if it works, you need to finish the job by properly bedding the action. If you use the washer trick and then the tang is stressed against the stock, it could make things even less consistent.
 
The washer trick just tells you that you need to free float. If you look at the Stevens it has a 1/4 inch free float as those cheapo stocks flex alot. I did the steel rod trick on my previous 22-250 (which one of the board members owns now) Worked ok but adds weight. I have also seen some who have added carbon arrows to do the same thing. Best solution is a wood or laminate stock and a free float.
 
I have a Remington ADL with plastic stock, and pressure points intact in .223cal. rifle will shoot one and one halve groups cold, but when the barrel heats up, it will shoot 3/8 to 1/2 groups. Would
rifle benefit by removing pressure points? All shots are at 100 yds. and are 3 shot groups.

Happy and safe hunting .. Emilio .. Pico Rivera, Ca.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
Be careful that you don't stress the action with the washer. The best bet as others have suggested is to bed the action and free float the barrel. JMHO!

Bob
 
This is interesting & makes me wonder if putting same size washer in both action screws would help. You still need to bed recoil lug. Sumpin to think about & would like input on this. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
Bob Tobergte
 
There are as many was to free float a barrel as there are action types, or for that matter almost as many as shooters who tinker. Waht ever works for you. do not be afraid to try new things or to experiment. With most firearms you really cannot screw them up to bad as long as you do not actually remove wood or metal.
 
Putting equal sized washers on each action screw would (theoretically) not induce any additional stresses, BUT...remember that the surface to surface fit that is most important in most systems is the fit between the recoil lug and the recoil lug web.

In changing the fit of the action to the stock with washers, you WILL change the relationship between the recoil lug and it's web. That may not have a huge effect depending, but it can't ever be a good thing.
 
A lot of H&R single shots are fixed by putting a rubber o-ring between the barrel and forend. I put one on mine, it helps.
 
The washer thing is sumpin differant but mine are all bedded action & SSS recoil lug, Tang & barrel floated to eliminate those variables. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
In future if I were to buy another Savage I think I would try the washer method on both the action screws just to satisfy my curiosity & would ALWAYS bed the recoil lug behind barrel nut & below reciever from lug to front action screw.
I have never had any problems with stock flex with the sporter models but the heavy barreled ones are equipped with the Stockade woodchuck stocks that have aluminum block where action sits. Very good stock for the money.
BC duramax stock is good too but only right hand. Have seen fotos of duramax with left hand bolt notch rasped in. Another 'fixit yourself' idea. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
 
Quote:
hello..i wonder about having the action bedded ?? i don't here about this much on savage product's..just wondering...



Savages use factory pillar or aluminum bedding block bedding on (I think) all their rifles. That is no doubt one of the reasons for their fine reputation for accuracy.

That said, any action/stock fit will be improved by custom bedding. It's impossible to get a perfect fit with a mass production machined system (even a good one). It's pretty easy on the other hand to get a perfect fit with a custom poured system.

You don't need to "have it done", it's easy enough to do it yourself. Take a look at this. It's a project I did on a Howa, but you can use just the parts that apply to your rifle (skim bedding).
 
Hey guys... thanks for all of the input... I had a TC Encore that was improved dramatically w/ the washer trick and thought it might be a short term fix... I will eventually take the time to bed the thing correctly but with hunting season upon me and not a lot of time for trips to the range I thought that it might be something to try. With the current setup (front washer only) I was able to keep 5 shots within 1" as I tried out some loads. The best group I had (.615) was 24.5 gr. of Benchmark pushing a 39 gr. Sierra Blitzking. The gun really seems to like that little bullet. I may try the 2 washer trick to see if it changes anything but for now I think I'm good w/ the results.
 


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