WD-40 as a sizing lube

35WD

New member
I came into about 11,000 empty Lake City 5.56 cases. They had been stored in a buddy's garage for about 20 years and he got tired of moving them around. In any case, I started to reload a few cases to see how they would work in my bolt action .223s.

The first problem I encountered was that most were hard to chamber even after a full length re-size. I understood from discussions with reloading acquaintances that this was likely due to the original brass being fired out of a fully auto weapon or one with a worn chamber. I then purchased a small base .223 die set. I de-capped and resized in a standard die and then turned my turret press over to the small base sizing die. To get the small base die to re-size where I could chamber the round, I set the die down so that the ram would just cam over at the bottom of the die. This adjustment re-sized to the point I could easily chamber a round in my bolt actions.

However, the next aggravating thing to come up was the fact that I ended up with a lot of stuck cases. So much so that I may now be the world's fastest stuck case remover. I got a lot of practice. I tried all of my various brands of case lube with no luck. I got to the point that I was using enough lube that I would get the lube dimple in the case after re-sizing (assuming it did not stick).

I was about to give the cases away out of frustration when I tried using WD-40 as a case lube.

Previously, I was running the un-capped cases in my tumbler for a few hours and then bring them out to de-cap and resize. I thought that the little bit of scale on the case might have been a part of the stuck case issue. When I first tried WD-40 I did it on the case before tumbling. I have now de-capped and full length resized over 500 of the cases in the small base die and with nary a stuck case. I de-cap in the standard size die and then move the turret to the small base sizing die with the de-capping pin and expander ball removed. I then have to turn the turret back to the standard die and run it up through the expander ball because the small base die seems to close the case mouth a tad (probably due to how high I have to run the case to get it full length resized).

Obviously I have to swage the primer pocket as well.

After the full length re-size process I have been tumbling the cases in corn cob media for about 24 hours. I see no evidence of any remaining WD-40 (which has been said by some to have a negative effect on primers).

Just thought that I would let you all know about my experience. I am now the owner of some 10,000 Lake City brass that I can get to work in my bolt guns.
 
In a few days the WD-40 will dry and you will have to clean your die. It's a pain to remove, sorta like dried glue. Soak overnight in brake cleaner.

I like One-Shot, others like Imperial.

If these don't work, you have some problem.

Congrats on the brass find, L.C. is good stuff.
 
Yeah, WD does get messy. I think if conventional case lubes are not working, there is a separate problem.


FWIW, I use 308 SB dies for my rem 760. I just go straight to sizing, no go between die. Even with 7.62 brass, it works just fine.
 
I am now the owner of some 10,000 Lake City brass that I can get to work in my bolt guns. [/quote]

You may want to shoot some of those mil-spec 5.56 cases before you go to the trouble of re-sizing ALL the rest of the 10,500 cases that are left...due to age, to see if there are many case splits and whether re-annealing is in order.

The dimpled case means you are using too much lube for the tolerance of the die and case i.e. the lube (WD-40) is likely the wrong lube.... I will also endorse Imperial Sizing Die Wax as my preference.

Also, I presume you are aware of the standard issues re .223 vs 5.56mm cases; they are not identical as to case wall thickness, neck length, capacity, etc. The www.6mmbr.com site has a good summary of these variances.

Work up your load carefully to avoid problems; good luck!
 
WD 40 is a penetrating oil so not good for primer and powders, but if you are cleaning them after I would guess no problem.
 
WD 40 will also "diesel" like a SOB so make sure it's ALL gone.

If you're not sure what I'm talking about, squirt just a little in a pellet rifle and fire it off sometime.

Oh, and you didn't hear it from me :)
 
I wonder what would happen if it were to "diesel" while you had a case at the top of the stroke?

I've resized thousands of L.C. brass, you shouldn't need to run the cases through two dies, just once through the SB die. Your overworking the brass.
 
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Thin oils may not have the lub properties that you need. I stuck 2 cases in a die with WD over the years. So, I give WD the credit for the current "stuck case remover" that I have.

I stuck two cases with the spray lube also.

There are numerous heavy oils and oil additives that will work well along with Imperial sizing wax. Just remember on the heavy oils that all you have to do is moisten your fingers and roll the case in your finger tips.

Some of the very best stuff that I have used over the years is:

1) heavy oil that is used in the assmebly of bearing units
of new engines.

2) Imperial sizing wax

3) Hornady white lube in the tube(best for forming down
cases to wild cat configurations

4) STP

Most folks problems with some products is that they use too much causing dents in the cases...little dab will do you.
 
Originally Posted By: bigwheelerGood for lake trout lure scent, it belongs in your tackle box, not on your
reloading bench.


It works so well, that it is illegal in Utah! And other areas, I'd presume.
 
Originally Posted By: pahntr760
It works so well, that it is illegal in Utah! And other areas, I'd presume.

Where did you read that. The only thing I have read is that you cannot use chemical attractants on waters that do not allow you to use bait.
 


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