what do i need to do ?? gun shoots low all adj out of scope.

T

t davis

New member
I have all the adjustment out of my scope and gun shoots a foot low. can I grind down back base or is this the wrong direction?? shim up back?? anyone know thanks.
 
To establish a starting point, please give us some information on your gun, the scope, the bases, the distance your expecting to shoot.

Assides frome that you have a few ways of handling this.

1: With a one piece base you can shim UP the back of the base.

2: You can get a set of burris signature rings and an offset kit for the plastic inserts.

3: 15 degree one piece long range bases are available, they are a bit pricey.
 
What kind of rifle is it? and also is the barrel floated at all? Some folks have had the barrel floated to get rid of any binding issues that's changed their points of impact substantially.

What's the objective on the scope, and can you go with lower rings and still clear the bolt?
 
First, It sounds like your rear base is too low. You may have obtained a set of rings that are of different heights.

If you didn't, to begin with, check to verify that your ring bases are level with the bore. If possible, stabilize the barrel without the bolt where you can look down the inside of the barrel at a distant object. Remove the scope and center the crosshairs using a mirror, lay the scope in the scope ring base without attaching the top of the scope ring and see where it is sighting in comparison to the bore. This will let you know if the base/rings are off and how far.

If you don't have a scope ring alignment tool, search for previous threads on this device, I think there are comments on substitutes. You may need to lap your rings, as if they are out of alignment, they can place a pressure on the scope that will actually bend the scope tube.

You may need to bed/shim the scope bases, but it may also be a defective scope, so be careful in what you do not to void any existing warranty.

If you are really hesitant to run these checks, take it to a gunsmith for proper mounting and go with his recommendations..

I'm sure some others will chime in on this.
 
You could get a set of Burris Signature rings and buy the insert kit that comes with a .005 .010 .015 and .020 off set. With the Plus .020 and the minus .020 It would move you about 20 inches at 100 yards. The .015 would be a 15 inch move. And added to the the other ring it could be as much as 35 inches. I had a Ruger gray varmint rifle that was off a mile. Bought a set of Ruger to Burris adapters and put a set of Burris Signature rings on it. It shot to well to send it to Ruger so I fixed it this way.
 
GUN is a weatherby sub moa. I got this gun because I didn't want to have to mess with any thing and still have a shooter.WRONG as soon as I got IT I saw that the barrel was rubbing the side of the stock. So i took stock off and saw two factory pressure points under the barrel.I like free floated barrels so the grinding began.I swear they must have been holding barrel up 1/4 inch. any how now that its free floated Iput it all together and cant get it to zero.
bases and rings are all same hight. I will probly get some sig ring inserts. But for now I made some shims out of a pop can.I'll shoot it on the way to work tomorrow and see whats up.I should have got a remmy.
 
If you have two piece rings DON"T shim the back base. This will bend the scope. Rings have to be perfectly alined or you can ruin a scope, at the very least you will get a scope that is very difficult to sight in. Don't shim unless you know what you are doing. Even with a one piece base you will need to bed your front ring to keep it from warping the base when you tighten the base screws.
 
I had a Bushnell 4-16x50 that had the same problem on a Winchester Model 70. I just cut an aluminum can into stips and placed two strips under the scope on the rear ring. It helped enough to let me get the scoped zeroed at 250 yards. Probably not the most ideal way to correct it, but it was the cheapest and quickest at the time. I wasn't all that concerned about the scope. It didn't really matter, the scope was fine, and I have shot many coyotes with it since. It has riden countless miles in my truck and atop my atv without losing its zero to date. Its been about 4 years now.
 
the way i understand it weatherby pulls the moa shooters from the line and puts a bell and carlson stock on them and out the door. I dont think it was shot after the bc stock was put on it. IT had way too much presure on the barrel I had to take 1/4 inch out of for end to get it to float. I should have shot it before I floated it but I just could't see how that much presure could be good. My buddy has two howa same as vangaurd and they both shoot well free floated.
AT 25 yds I was still a foot low and out of adjustment. rings are two pc warns. Ive got shims cut and wondering if I will bend scope if i tighten everything up?
 
Something is WAY wrong if you are a foot low at 25 yds.

Warne makes good rings - which model rings and bases do you have.

I have to ask (sorry) could you have turned the elevation knob the wrong way??

.
 
An easy check for your scope at 25 yards. Take a shot, set the rifel rock solid on the bench with the cross hairs on the aiming point. With the windage adjustments, hold the rifle steady and bring the crosshairs TO THE BULLET hole. You will be sited in at 25 yards. For a 100 yard zero have the cross hairs about 2" above the hole (about the distance between the center of the scope and the centerline of the bore). Lots of people move the cross hairs in the WRONG direction. The aiming point will move in the opposit direction from what you expect.
 
nope, worked fine on gun I took it off of.I shimmed back mount I'll shoot it tomorrow and see. thanks for all the imput guys.
 
Other than saying you had a new rifle, you didn't tell us much about the scope, or how your mounted it.

Just in case you didn't do this-----You should always start at square one, whether it's an old scope or a new one, and that's to center your reticle in the scope. One adjustment at a time, turn the adjustment full to one side and then full to the other, counting turns or clicks, then divide that number in half and turn it back to the center of the adjustment range. Repeat with the other adjustmernt. This should center your reticle inside the scope. It is also possible to do this with a mirror, but I won't go into that now.

Then after properly mounting the scope in the rings, you should bore sight it for horizontal alignment using your windage screw on the rear mount. Close target fire your few shots at the range at about 25 to 30 yrds, first improving your horizontal alignment by still using the windage screws. When your dead on left to right, then tighten the windage screw for the final time, and then start making verticle adjustments with your scopes verticle adjustment screw.
 
well i got gun sighted in I have about 3/4 turn left on elevation I would like to have retical centered but thats just not going to happen. I hope scope will hold zero this way,time will tell.Now i will work on load development thanks for all the help
 
First off, something is bad wrong if you have to shim anything! Never seen this except scopes that have 1/8 min adjustments which is the last thing you want. They have very little adjustment range at that level. I have only had one scope that was like this, a 6-24 Swarvoski. Had to use a 20 MOA base to get it right. Pretty sorry when you produce an expensive scope like this that takes a special mount to get it sighted in!

One of the second problems I see is the BC stock. They are not known for excellent quality control however, this should not make it a foot low. I would recommend a 20 MOA Warne Pict base but don't think they make one for a Weatherby.

Your scope probably has 1/8 min adjustments, right?
 


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