What do you run in your AR? Solvent? Lube? Rust prevention?

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woodshed

New member
This will be interesting. After reading so many strong opinions over on AR15.com I thought it would be interesting to get a sampling of what we run over here. List your lube, carbon solvent, copper solvent, rust inhibitor, magic snakeoil etc.

Mine: GM Top Engine Cleaner for carbon removal from barrel, followed by Sweet's 7.62 for copper, then a thin coat of Kroil, once in a while I will break out some JB bore paste but only a few passes, cleaning not lapping. I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner for normal action parts cleaning and then lube with Mobile 1 5W30 synthetic. The outside gets wiped down with Remoil.

Kinda funny but the Remoil is the only purely firearms product that I use and it is probably he most ineffective. I hear Eezox is far superior but I can't get any locally.

Scott
 
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When I had Ar's(before I got wise and went the Sig 556's) they were lucky to get hoppes #9. I can never go back to scrubbing chambers and barrels for hours on end.
 
Flush chamber/bore with non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
Chamber brush and mop, flush with brake cleaner (chamber, bore and gas tube).
Fill with Wipe-out and wait.
Dry patch the bore.
One slightly wet patch of Weapons Shield CLP.
Brake cleaner on the bolt assembly/carrier and charging handle, then scrape any carbon.
Wipe down and coat all contact areas with WS CLP (thin).

Unless it's been dropped in the mud, I just blow the lower assy. out with the air compressor and add one drop of CLP on the trigger pin and call it good. My trigger (Jewell) is all stainless, so it's not going to rust.

So, I use brake cleaner, Wipe-out, and WS CLP. Mobil One would probably work just as well as the CLP, and I find the older I get, the less "snakeoil" I buy.
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Soak with Foaming Bore Cleaner, Ten passes with a brush and Kroil, wipe out with about three-four patches and an application of CorrosionX, corrosion inhibitor...

One drop of Brownell's Friction Defense on the bolt and carrier, applied very thinly with finger after through cleaning..and any residue wiped off with a clean patch..

Pull the fire control group about every six months and clean and lightly lube each part..
 
Originally Posted By: warpig602When I had Ar's(before I got wise and went the Sig 556's) they were lucky to get hoppes #9. I can never go back to scrubbing chambers and barrels for hours on end.

Seriously? Hours on end? After 100-200 rounds thru my AR I might be looking at a 30 minute clean job. Why did you have to spend hours on yours? I am way too lazy to spend hours cleaning anything. One of the things I like about my AR is how easy it is to clean. Maybe it just me, but I would rather clean my AR than any of my bolt guns.
 
Quote:Seriously? Hours on end?

Getting copper out with Hoppes #9?
Yeah, hours seems about right. First time I ran Wipe-Out through my .308 (cleaned for many years with Hoppes and a brush until it "looked" clean), the patches were solid green.
I probably hadn't invested enough hours, but the Hoppes patches were coming out clean, and I assumed I was done.
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I do kinda miss the smell, though.
 
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I have noticed that if I dont break in a barrel right that its harder to clean...I learned that a long time ago and can run 100-200 through my AR and takes no longer than an hour max..are you guys shooting dirt through your barrels..lol I even hand load with H335 and thats some dirty stuff.Im gonna have to ask a Marine how long it takes..lol
 
Well, if you notice, I said "when I was using Hoppes #9", which, frankly, is all we had from 1966 until about 2000.
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Right now, with the brake cleaner/Wipe Out combo, it's about 15 minutes for my upper, not counting the soak time.
 
335 is a great 223 powder. It is dirty though. With my latest AR I'm trying to go "clean". That means the UBC coating, and runnin' TAC. So far, so good, but I really haven't developed but 2 loads so far.......
 
The upper I'm currently shooting was assembled by our very own stormking here. I have special requirements in NY due to our AWB laws, so I needed someone to assemble an upper in the legal config I needed before shipping here. He polished the bore for me before sending, and despite that I only have around 100 rounds down it, it clean super easy. I use Montana Xtreme bore solvent (not the copper killer, at least not on this gun) and after a patch, 5 or so passes with a soaked Montana brand brush, I can usually get it clean with a half dozen patches after this. The gun shoots roughly MOA today, and I expect it to get better as I managed to get it really broken in.

Anyone else using XTerminator for powder? I was going to try TAC but tried XTerminator based on a recommendation made by stormking, and it's fairly clean, meters smooth as silk, and is fairly inexpensive. It's also a bit faster than TAC and seems to be recommended for the loads under 60gr. I'm right now shooting 25gr under a 55gr VMax and it shoots pretty darn good for a 16" lightweight barrel. This load also seems to match my 55gr 3100fps turret on my Mark AR scope.
 
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Break Free CLP. It has worked very well on all my firearms. I've yet to have a failure on either of my ARs and find that the lube holds up very well during all day range sessions. I always carry lube in my shooting bag for those just in case moments.
 
Rick, I use X-Terminator in my .204s and in .223s for light weight bullets and TAC in my .223s with the heavier (60gr) ones...

I used to use W-748 for both, until I started using the X-Terminator and found it to be a cleaner burn...
 
I use a boresnake and hoppes for my bore. I lube up my bolt carrier assembly with breakfree. I wipe down the outside of all my guns with gun oil ever so often. Never have any problems.
 
Hoppes #9 for BCG and initial barrel swab, Barnes CR10 for copper removal from barrel, lightly lube barrel with Kroil, lube BCG with 0w30 Mobil 1 (lightly)
 


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