What Free float handguard and gas block are you using?

Dust

New member
Been trying to get my M&A 20" H-bar converted to free float, but my father has been having problems with the gas block not fitting right. Please let me know what you have for a handguard and gas block combo
 
I use one that is light weight one designed by us, it uses a timing ring and ours is threaded on the bottom to take a bipod adapter. I can post a pic tomorrow.
 
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I put a Yankee Hill Diamond quad rail on mine and my boys carbine. His has the regular A-Frame front sight and I have the Yankee Hill folding front sight. No problems with either rig.

I also had the Hogue FF overmolded tube with a standard gas block, no rail on a 20" 204 upper, didn't have any problems with it either.

You'll have to give a better explanation than "not fitting right".
 
Hogue free float tube and YHM single rail on my CAR15.

I like Hogue stuff in general and currently trying to find a reason to purchase an overmolded stock w/full length aluminum bedding block for a 700 Sporter in 30-06 that I am too old and wimpy to shoot much anymore..naw, I'd have to re-barrel but still like their stuff.
 
Quote:...and the install ring won't line up with the gas mount in the upper.

Post a pic of what you're having problems making work.
 
Originally Posted By: DustHe bought a free float on ebay, and the install ring won't line up with the gas mount in the upper.

Again, I'm guessing. I think you mean the barrel nut and gas block/gas tube.

Minimum torque specs are 35 ft/lbs minimum for the barrel nut, and around 70 ft/lbs max. If it's not a steel barrel nut, try to stay around the 35-50 ft/lbs range. An aluminum barrel nut may fail at the higher torque ranges. You will most likely need a receiver block and a bench vise, a good armorers tool, maybe a sturdy strap wrench, and a good bit of elbow grease. Tighten to fit, not loosen. You may have to tighten and loosen multiple times to get it to fit correctly.

Pics help.
 
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