What to polish a trigger with?

Dmcgee

Dmcgee

New member
I want to try and smooth my trigger some. I put Jp springs in it it but it has a little creep. What do y'all use to polish them?
 
If you don't have a lot of experience doing this type of operation I would not attempt this. Since you are asking the question it's safe to assume that you don't. Fire control parts in the AR are surface hardened only. It is extremely easy to polish through or thin the surface hardening to the point your trigger will no longer function safely.

In your situation I would separate the upper and lower. Take the lower and dry fire it at least 1000 times catching the hammer with the palm of your hand. This will smooth the parts without removing the surface hardening. Disassemble and clean the fire control parts, install your JP yellow spring, apply moly lube spray or moly grease then reinstall. You will have a much smoother trigger.
 
Originally Posted By: mj36639If you don't have a lot of experience doing this type of operation I would not attempt this. Since you are asking the question it's safe to assume that you don't. Fire control parts in the AR are surface hardened only. It is extremely easy to polish through or thin the surface hardening to the point your trigger will no longer function safely.

In your situation I would separate the upper and lower. Take the lower and dry fire it at least 1000 times catching the hammer with the palm of your hand. This will smooth the parts without removing the surface hardening. Disassemble and clean the fire control parts, install your JP yellow spring, apply moly lube spray or moly grease then reinstall. You will have a much smoother trigger.

+1 take it from me I tried the polishing thing and now I don't like the trigger very much. Its a light trigger pull but now its hard to feel the first and second stage. And there is no way to go back once you do it. I would just get a Timney or get someone who does them. I think Dtech does...Jason
 
The creep can be taken up with a set screw, behind the grip screw. Adjust as needed. Joe Bob also sells a nifty 2 piece adjustable screw that directly replaces the grip screw. And has another adjustable aspect of it to get the job done.

Be careful taking the grip off and on. The selector switch detent spring is in there and easy to bend or loose.
 
I use a Arkansas stone sold by brownells with an AR15 trigger jig(I am not doing this for customers), but with that said, I'd honestly send my trigger to Bill Springfield who does great work for a very reasonable price.
 
I managed to smooth and lighten mine by using an arkansas stone and the grip set screw method plus used some fine jewelers polish. It required removing material from the trigger, the disconnector, and the hammer. Plus re-hardening all of the parts that got polished. It's not for the feignt of heart, I had to buy a new disconnector at one point and weld a little extra back onto the rear of the trigger.

But...I'm super glad I did it. I now understand fully how the whole trigger group works and my trigger breaks like glass. Just understand that if you start messing with this you :

A) need to 100% verify safe function and
B) very well may destroy parts and need to replace them.
 



Send it to a Gunsmith. AR triggers are not a do it yourself. He will have a fixture and you will have a safe trigger. Most Gunsmiths charge $25 to $50. AR tiggers are AR triggers. You can not make a pig's ear into a silk bag.

Timney's are a nice drop in trigger at 3 pounds. I have a 2.5 pound JARD in one of my RRA lowers. It breaks very nice. Rock River told me to get a hammer block and snap the trigger 150 to 200 times to break in a National Match trigger. It worked. Safty first.
 
Buy a good after market fire control group and be done with it. For around $100 you can get an RRA or CMMG 2 stage. Twice as nice as a stock set up.
 
Originally Posted By: pahntr760The creep can be taken up with a set screw, behind the grip screw. Adjust as needed. Joe Bob also sells a nifty 2 piece adjustable screw that directly replaces the grip screw. And has another adjustable aspect of it to get the job done.

Be careful taking the grip off and on. The selector switch detent spring is in there and easy to bend or loose.


I put the JP springs in mine and went to the harware store and about a $0.10 set screw. trigger breaks clean at around 3.6lbs, its not the lightest around but its smooth, creep free and consistant and all for about $12!!
 
I do my own and get them to 3-3.5lbs with no creep. It's more involved than a simple polish or putting in an extended grip screw. I modify the hammer, disconnect, and trigger in order to get it where I want it. It's something you have to be taught or watch a video on and practice a few times. I ruined a few learning, but now I do them for a lot of the local guys around here. A couple thousandths can make a safe trigger into an unsafe and unreliable one.
 
I agree with pretty much what has been said here. Be willing to put the time in to learn the right way or send it to someone that knows what they are doing. It's not just polishing. Or just buy a good trigger group. Safety always over rules everything.
 


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