Win. Brass primer pockets??? maybe a little rant.

D

DAB

New member
I got some new .223Rem Winchester brass I sized / trimmed / ect.

primed 100 cases with CCI 450 primers using the RCBS hand tool making sure all primers were seated properly, ( I am loading for an AR15 )loaded up 50 rounds with Sierra 52.Gr HPBT match bullets went to the range and on the last 5 rounds I shot( Using 5 RD clip) I had a SLAM FIRE on the second round in the clip thankfully the bolt was locked up enough that there was no damage to the rifle or myself. When I got home I checked the primers with a straight edge in the other 50 Rds I had primed and found that some of the primers were even with the base of the case and a couple others were not seated deep enough so I took my priming tool and tried to reseat the primers to the proper depth BUT NO WAY would they seat any farther in. Took all precautions I could and deprimed all 50 cases, measured the depth of the ones that the primer was to far out and it was not the proper depth.

Sent off to Sinclair for a Primer pocket uniformer kit. When I received it I went to work on the primer pockets. Using the tool as a gauge not a one of the primer pockets were deep enough. I'll tell you one thing they are now. Primed them again and all the primers are below the base of the case.
Should solve the slam fire problem.

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[size:11pt]The question is.

Have any pf you found the primer pockets on any brand of brass not deep enough where they caused you problems?

DAB
 
I have not found that the primer pockets were not deep enough But On new brass I have found Primer pockets that were loose, and not as tight as the rest of the brass.
 
DAB, you are going the wrong way! Your priming tool is out of spec and is not seating the primers flush, perfect would be .003 below rim.

I have one that is doing the exact same thing.
 
Ackleyman, I think you need to reread his post. If the primer pocket depth isn't deep enough, it doesn't matter whether his primer tool is out of spec or not.

Originally Posted By: DABand deprimed all 50 cases, measured the depth of the ones that the primer was to far out and it was not the proper depth.
 
Every time I open a box of new brass I always trim to the same length and chamfer and deburr that process. Then the flash holes are deburred and the primer pockets are uniformed using Sinclair tools. Kind of a PITA but its what I do. At least I know my brass is in pretty good shape when I'm done. I use the Lee hand priming tool and haven't had any problems. Dave
 
Originally Posted By: ackleymanDAB, you are going the wrong way! Your priming tool is out of spec and is not seating the primers flush, perfect would be .003 below rim.

I have one that is doing the exact same thing.

The way I have my hand priming tool set up I could seat a primer 3/32 below the base if the primer pocket was deep enough.

I like it the way I have it cause I can feel the primer hit the bottom of the primer pocket.

The one I have I have to put a primer in it by hand none of the new fancy stuff for me.
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DAB
 
Originally Posted By: DDJEvery time I open a box of new brass I always trim to the same length and chamfer and deburr that process. Then the flash holes are deburred and the primer pockets are uniformed using Sinclair tools. Kind of a PITA but its what I do. At least I know my brass is in pretty good shape when I'm done. I use the Lee hand priming tool and haven't had any problems. Dave


Dave
I have been preparing all my brass the way you do for many years now, except that I just got the Kit from Sinclair this past Friday and will be doing the primer pockets on all my brass for all my different Cartridges from now on.

Just goes to show ya GREAT MINDS think a like
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DAB
 
could have been the primer cups were a tad different sizes as well
I have had it happen but I could always push them in further and I use a bolt so if its out a bit it does not matter.:)
 
Some priming tools are made out of spec and will not seat a primer flush or slightly below the base of the case head. I have a priming tool right now that will not seat primers flush or slightly below the case head.

I use a Whitetail carbide primer pocket reamer when I get some that are real bad, dept of cut is "fixed" on this cutter.

Sinclair used to sell a tool with a carbide cutter that you could adjust the dept of cut. I learned the hard way what was too deep on cases that cost .42 each in 1985.
 
I inspect ever seated primer to insure it's seated well below the base of the case. I do this as soon as the primer is seated before the primed case gets put in the tray.
Last Summer, I bought 300 new Reminton 30-30 cases to load up for my son's birthday gift. I wasn't able to seat primers in any of the cases deep enough to be safe. So, I too bought Sinclair's primer pocket reamer and reamed all 300 cases. After reaming, primers were easily seated. At that point in my reloading career, I retired my two Lee Autoprime tools, one set up for large primers, and one set up for the small ones. To replace them, I bought two of Sinclair's priming tools and set them up for the small and large primers. The Sinclair tools are as good as I've ever used for seating primers. I have to handle every primer to put it into the tool, but time is not important to me; primers get seated perfectly, and that's all that's important.
 
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I have learned over the years, that preperation is the key to loading. Taking the time to understand these cases are mass produced and things are not always the same sizing case after case. The writer previously stated his trimming and extra care he does of the cases. Well I have also done that and always on my RCBS CaseMate run them over the primer pocket so they are all hopefully seated to the same depth. Loading needs to be uniform so the only twitch coming is from the shooter.
 
Originally Posted By: Yukon21I have learned over the years, that preperation is the key to loading. Taking the time to understand these cases are mass produced and things are not always the same sizing case after case. The writer previously stated his trimming and extra care he does of the cases. Well I have also done that and always on my RCBS CaseMate run them over the primer pocket so they are all hopefully seated to the same depth. Loading needs to be uniform so the only twitch coming is from the shooter.

Very well stated....

This all sounds like a lesson in Reloading 101.

JMO - BCB
 
Martyn, the new Lee auto primers have a steel cam, where the old ones were made out of pot metal, I doubt if you could ever wear one out.

No doubt that the Sinclair is a top drawer item, made like a Swiss watch.
 
Originally Posted By: ackleymanMartyn, the new Lee auto primers have a steel cam, where the old ones were made out of pot metal, I doubt if you could ever wear one out.

No doubt that the Sinclair is a top drawer item, made like a Swiss watch.

Thanks for the input.
The Lee units I had were all pot metal, and I just felt they didn't get the job done as well as the Sinclair priming tool. Maybe I just needed to do the priming job with a different seating tool.
I really like the old Lee single priming tools made back in the 1970's era, but finding them now is difficult, so I splurged for the Sinclair tools. There's a lot of similarity between the old Lee and the newer Sinclair too.
 
I've definitely have had issues with Win brass as well. It all I used to buy but kept getting issues with too tight and with some so loose it would barely hold a primer that you could probably install with your thumb. This was all on new brass. However, I've had new remington brass where you couldnt get the primers to go in, the latest. I think its just luck of the draw. However, ive had good luck with SSA brass. Just wish WIN was as consistant as it used to be, but guess its like everything else, price up quality down. I go by the if in doubt pitch it, not worth damaging a $1200 rifle with a 25 cent case. FWIW I even up every piece of new brass with a primer pocket tool and that helps unless its just too big to start with.
 


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