Stainless pins, yes or no?

W

William Suter

Well-known member
I never liked the idea of the wet tumblers using SS pins. I just read an article on another forum and the guy is saying to trash the pins, you don't need them. He claims all they really do is clean the inside of the cases and that isn't really necessary. I always thought the pins and water was a PITA and never tried it. Maybe just using soap and water it might not be so bad. Opinions????
 
If you are talking about wet tumbling with pins for necked rifle cases, I'm not going there. How do you make sure pins are not stick in the case ?
 
Bill,
I've used the wet methods with pins and not.
The usage of the pins does do a better job of inside the cases and primer pockets than just dawn and lemi-shine.
I'm not sold completely that the pins are really needed. It is a personal preference.

I do use a vibratory tumbler with walnut once the cases are done with the wet tumbling and after resizing before loading. As it actually kind places a sort of wax on the cases for storage before loading the rounds, they seem to stay shiny longer.
Also this catches any missed pins. and separation in the walnut media and pins shook loose with a small magnet works great for any pins displaced from cases.

Usually I'll use the pins in the wet media before sizing but after depriming. (there are times that some fired brass from another shooter works into my brass collection).
again I'll use a magnet to collect as much of the pins as I can before resizing. Magnetic parts tray do wonders , light tap on the case mouth to the parts tray will usually displace the water cohesion.
And of course I do a visual inspection.
---added---
Just did a test, with a known case that contains NO pins, placed 1 pin in the case (22BR) used a refrigerator magnet, a magnetic retrieval tool, and a harbor freight magnetic tool.
The harbor freight picked up the case, while the small hand held magnetic retrieval tool and the refrigerator magnet slightly lifted the case.
All that being said, I will not use pins if I've just annealed the cases, too much deformation. If just fired I've not noticed any adverse effects. YMMV
 
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They are a magnetic SS (304 SS to be exact which is magnetic) . I know Frankford Arsenal as well as other brands are. Usually a quick check in the specifications will tell.

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Go to the Q& A's to see they are asking about them being magnetic
 
I have not seen the need for pins in my tumbler, I use very hot water, A bit of lemishine/dawn. Large batches of dirty brass. Small amounts(couple handful go in the sonic cleaner. Very hot water again, drop or 2 of dawn, light sprinkle of lemishine. Really dirty suppressor brass gets a light splash of vinegar in the mix. Brass that has not been on the ground, likely just gets wiped off. Wash/clean brass needs inside neck lube for bullet seating and neck expansion.
 
As Stg_Mike mentions some 300 series (martensitic) are magnetic or at least to some degree. Personally I would use those pins to clean cases, I feel more comfortable with walnut or treated cob!
 
spotstalkshoot said:
I have not seen the need for pins in my tumbler, I use very hot water, A bit of lemishine/dawn. Large batches of dirty brass. Small amounts(couple handful go in the sonic cleaner. Very hot water again, drop or 2 of dawn, light sprinkle of lemishine. Really dirty suppressor brass gets a light splash of vinegar in the mix. Brass that has not been on the ground, likely just gets wiped off. Wash/clean brass needs inside neck lube for bullet seating and neck expansion.
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Nothing absolutely nothing wrong with that process. Like I said personal preference. it honestly boils down to what one desires.

I probably waste too much time for my brass prep, as honestly it don't make much of a difference if any on the target as to how clean the primer pocket is.
Except for two rifles yeah in those two one can see a difference and they are highly specialized. Which sadly I don't shoot much anymore, too dang heavy.
Many times good enough is good enough.
 
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I just shake the pins out when removing cases from the STM tumbler. Dry the cases and any (few) remaining pins fall out when handling. Use a small magnet to pick up pins from the bench - just get a few.
 
I use a really fine media. I also use a polish. I put them in today and take them out tomorrow. Probably over kill but I usually have plenty of brass on hand so time isn't an issue and boy do they come out shiny. I always look for a better way but hard to change from what's been working for years.
 
To drift just a wee bit as a side note, I have tried Harbor Freights offering of walnut media (24grit Fine) which amazingly flows through the primer flash hole. And doesn't block it. as some others have in the past.
 
doggin coyotes said:
I haven't cleaned any brass in years. I figured out it doesn't help my shooting one bit. lol

It gets a rag to the exterior and a nylon brush to the necks. Done and load.

Pretty/shiny brass is sexy though. No denying that.
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Im torture testing some hornady brass for my 223 & 6.5 grendel, I can anneal, it does trim nicer annealed, but I'm above 10 firings on this not cleaned, not annealed, just sized and shot brass without a failure yet. I do think that annealing helps with the higher intensity stuff like 22-250 & 243 though.
 
I could never get my corn or nut media tumbled brass as totally clean and shiny as I can using pins, hot water, soap, and a PH balancer. Brass comes out looking factory new, or better. I’m a low volume single stage re-loader. A few thousand 9mm and 45acp rounds per year and far less rifle rounds. I’m OCD about the looks and quality of my re-loads so yeah, ….wet wash is my preference.
 
I use stainless steel pins, dawn, and citric acid (same stuff that's in lemishine). It gets brass extremely clean. I'll then pass it through my annealer and go from there. Can't speak to any other method cause I haven't used another method in a while.
 
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