Playing around with the CNC Router

Sgt_Mike

Sgt_Mike

Well-known member
several years ago I bought a cheap desktop cnc router to just play with. To see if I wanted to get into a actual full grown cnc router. I eventually stepped away from it for a bit, so it has been sitting in the corner. I repurposed the computer I had hooked up to it. enough time had passed that I actually forgotten all the tricks I learned.
The other day I dug it out and decided to play with it again.
Using a scrap bit of Mahogany, pulling a old i-7 laptop I attempted a 100mm coaster design (4mm thickness).

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After the 10 + hours of carving, I applied Tung Oil and it is now drying before the next coat /sanding (need to find my 1000 grit sand paper for that) .
The engraving depth is 0.5 mm , which actually did pretty good Except for the banner within the snake above the coat of arms. Seem to wipe out the words "This we'll defend", Thinking I'll need to do this as a separate operation / cut at a lot less depth. Which is what I did with the cut out border. I did try a piece of oak I had, prior to this but was done at 60mm diameter because of the size.
As one can see the flaw in the right upper area is from a miscut years ago, hence why it's scrap.

here is the oak for comparison on the right.

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again Tung oil finish, and need to finish it out even though these are not the level of precision I desire, just need to figure out How to get what I want with this logo.
I need to bother one of my neighbor to use his bandsaw to cut them out leaving me with another usable block to do a set of 2, 3, or maybe 4.

Thoughts? Wasting my time? I have / am considering using the site's logo in order to see how that cut is, not to be for sale of course just to see if it's viable.
 
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As you can see I had some run away with the endmill, this was done several years ago. Not a great job, but he liked it as his load blocks didn't work with the .348's rim size.
 
I chose the Army Seal because of it's detailing, once I figure that one out fully, other designs will be easier.
(I am secretly eyeing that nice piece of black walnut in the corner, would make excellent coasters, or ???)
 
cherokeetracker01 said:
Let me know when I can turn in an order for a S&W loading block.
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I'll have to check the server I "think" I had the files (for loading blocks) to run on it, otherwise I'll have to start from scratch again. Which will entail reloading Freecad on the laptop to get the file redone.
Just checked the server ... nope.... now digging through "pen" / thumb drives IIRC correctly that is where I had them. Funny how those thing hide when you need them LOL ....
I do need to finish the coasters first before diving off into another project. (btw the finish on the load block for my buddy was simply J-Wax, and 2000 grit sand paper).

ETA:
went back to a online CAM software reset some parameters to reduce the depth on the banner and snake to 0.08mm (approx 0.0035"). This worked to allow one to actually read the motto "this we'll defend". Which I also reduced the depth to 0.3mm (0.012") from the 0.5mm of the rest of the seal which should present more detail than it currently is displaying.
Now all that is left is to combine the two files so that it is a continuous cut on the next one. Which hopefully will be the last tweak for the DA seal coasters.
 
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@hunt0168 sent some extremely helpful tips via PM / conversation. While his application on it's face is different, it is exactly the same.
Regardless of if it's a router, Plasma cutter, or a laser. Codes are the same to the controller and software, with only a few differences. The best thing in his reply was use a area off of the workspace to test. Which I honestly did think of prior to him sending the advice, which I'm thankful of because had I not thought of that.. yeah his advice is a game changer. Which he covered quite a bit more, all helpful advice. Leveling the work piece, I do have the bit (fly cutter) for that.

Work time, the very first cut (60mm) when I re set everything back up took 20 hours, and as smaller area. I then increased the size to 100mm. Set the software setting to geometry so the cutter is making cuts closer to each other. This setting alone cut the time in half. Engraving a graphic is the most time consuming. Straight milling a pocket is fast as well as the border cut out. Depth and number of passes each step also plays in here which is why a mill or cut out is faster, as they can be more aggressive to a large degree. Wood species also plays a large role in the speeds and feeds setting.

Below is the test of Just the banner above the coat of arms focusing on motto's clarity. (looks better in person)
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popper43 said:
Most tung oil isn't anymore.
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Very true, and hasn't been for years. However it can be readily obtained. Several vendors do offer it, just usually will not find at a "Box" store.
For this project I'm using the "fake" Tung Oil, which has lacquers in it to fill the pores, and build faster. As it's not a vintage stock or a butcher block or item that needs "food Safe" is a issue. But something to set a coffee cup or adult beverage on. But is a true and valid point that popper pointed out.


Actually just looked at the date of the photo of the load block yeah Oct of 2023. yep been a minute or two.
Now the only hold up is getting the neighbor to use his bandsaw. Kinda wish I had not sold off the one I had. But for piddly stuff like this a simple cheap desktop band saw will work.
 
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Amazing just how much one loses when starting out with something of this nature. Then stepping away for a bit. But is coming back slowly.
The most glaring is the one that I had put off, when I started this ... dust control yep need to hook it up in a cabinet /case. actually easy to do and make just lazy I guess.
Nothing really fancy just something to keep it at bay a bit.

Software is right now a bit .. Challenging is probably the best way to describe it. The main issue is the Operating system, I prefer Linux versus Windows based, there is the problem most hobbyist cnc use Windows based. Not bring this up for advice or actually discussion, I can pretty much handle that part easy enough. Just bored and collecting my thoughts in the background so to speak. The OS drives which programs can be utilized. which right now I'm using ugs platform to work with Linux and the cnc router.

I'm thinking of projects, to do in addition to simple coasters and maybe a few loading block which Ed (my hunting /Army buddy) was talking the other day. and we discussed wood / acrylic load blocks. Which lead to lengthy discussion of feasibility, the material is a bit more fickle than wood. Has to be cut fast to prevent melting, stupid as it sounds the faster the chips are removed the cooler the material stays.
I absolutely know what I just wrote is confusing as to what the item would look like. And I can't find a graphic in order to describe it. but the pocket depth in the wood section would only be basically rim thickness with the acrylic part actually supporting the cases being elevated with stand off's. The beauty in my opinion of that design is that multiple cartridge's can be done by changing the acrylic section. What brought that on was a discussion of how his block that I did for him is working out. Which I had pulled the SAAMI specs for the rim. He went on to discussing how some of the rims was tight, I pursued this a bit, come to find out he has been reforming 45-70 to .348 Win.... I just stared at him, had it not been him, I probably would have been irate. That is when the thought of that design came to be. There is a draw back to the design, more than one piece per block to keep up with, the top acrylic piece (s).

Back in the 70's as in 1970's wooden die boxes was popular specifically the RCBS competition die boxes. Would be pretty nice to set the dies that really don't have a box in something like that. Now of course some tweaking would be needed to add a place for a shell holder etc and a few improvement
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Yeah I stole the graphic from ebay to give ya'll a idea of what I'm talking /envisioning about. Improvements I can see for that design is 4 small magnet (small round rare earth is my thought) inserted into the corners to retain the lid during handling.
RCBS used a thick sleeve around the outside to do that. Here @hm1996 know exactly what I'm referring to lol as he sold me a great set of these in 30-06. Which I cherish greatly. Speaking of, now I need to unload some of the other 30-06 dies I've accumulated over the years, to someone that is starting out in reloading, or simply that caliber.
The other is in the center where the allen screwdriver set in one could place a cutout for a standard allen wrench and the above it a spot for the shell holder. The other thought is a pocket to place a small silica packet (rechargable) in for those of us that live in a humid environment.
Downside to this is the differing die shapes between die makers.
Upside besides have a nice box to place one's dies, is RCBS , Lyman, Forrester, or even C-H is usually really consistent to outside profile to a large degree. Although variations do exist.

Nothing in this post is an attempt to start a side business, or any such thing. Not saying I wouldn't do something for a forum member (s) if asked. I'm just posting to have a conversation and to kick out ideas. I know some will question this to a degree. Why not start a side business, well I'm Retired, and honestly don't want to tolerant the B.S. involved with it. It's a hobby that is sort of related to the forum.

@cherokeetracker01 yeah I could get you a load block with a S&W logo happening. PM me on your thoughts, if your interested. No I won't charge you for time involved. My reason for doing this is to keep my mind and hands busy. Otherwise I'm listening to stupid stuff on TV and losing IQ points by the seconds. Worse yet is the stupid stuff on social media, which the daughter puts on the TV, and wonders why I leave the room. I can only tolerate only so much stupidity which is less and less each passing day.

In closing thanks to everyone for reading of my blathering on about non-coyote killing /hunting postings, and my musings. Wish each and all a pleasant day and a better one tomorrow. Again Thank you for taking the time to read this. I do need to finish the mahogany coasters though, my hold up is bugging the neighbor for his band saw lol.
Respectfully
Mike
 
bohunr said:
maybe design some Predator masters coasters and sell them to members :)
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Honestly that exact thought came to mind before I posted my war and peace post.
The one I did with the DA Seal is 100mm . Yeah I suck at metric to imperial dimensions too, but 100mm is about 3.9" in dia so should work for the bigger mugs too.
Wood species would be the next consideration.
Red Adler
Maple
Oak
Black Walnut
????
Been a while since I hit the Hardwood shop in Little Rock so not sure how much the board foot cost has gone up.
I would only be after materials/shipping cost. Would not charge a member more than that. And keeping it exclusive to here.
I have considered the logo from the web site, but would need permission for that one.
Although, I could do an original design in a set of 4 easily and actually quicker than trying to remember how I had Freecad working to generate the code to run the cnc.
 
Good on you.
I really like wood for the build media.

I've been playing with plastic 3D prints for a couple years now.
Enjoy the design part more than the build part, on my 2nd printer.
Designed & built an AR cooler plus dummy mag. And a brass catcher for AR.
Designed & built a sheath for Spyderco mule fixed blade.
Designed & built reload die organizer per cartridge.
Other stuff is boring: stands, hangers, adapters, fidgets, etc.
 
This whole section is me Think out loud, and developing a course of action...

I did find a graphic that I really like a lot... when I ran it through a CAM program that generates code. It lost some detail from the original drawing, but was still stunning on the computer display. (actually found four that was royalty licensee etc free )
Then It hit me I had helped a neighbor cut a maple some years ago and saved some of the log section (fireplace lengths).. I could slice off sections resulting in end grain maple. Greatly reducing cost. Hmmmm now to figure out the best way to accomplish it. I know I'll need to resaw the sections as I'm not good enough to cut off section at say 6mm (0.236" or 1/4") thickness to start off with.
Band Saw would be Ideal for resawing... don't have one anymore, and the offering from the box store actually suck (or what they have in stock without ordering online). Thought of a 9" yeah too small a throat opening at a minimum 12" would be needed...

Table saw could be done and the fence would greatly enhance thickness on the smaller diameter sections... do have.
Miter saw use a stop (2x4) to control thickness ... do have one just need to check if viable. and which sections could be used with the listed methods. without producing a lot of waste....
-- actual question part how does maple strike most folks personally I like end grain maple.
 
@Bob_Atl
the 3-D printing is in it's self is neat. And a ton of things can be done.
Such as a wall holder for the AR using the mag well. Been meaning to get one for the AR in 9mm I have. Of course that is not the only thing 3D printed I've seen that just was neat. Just one that came to mind.

ETA:
I had mentioned Red Alder, I know some will be unfamiliar with the species, it's basically known as the poor man's cherry. I've not ever worked with it, but a bit of research sounds like a good candidate for a project.. again thinking out loud. I do need to head to the hardwood store soon (I might just might get them to do the resaw on a existing board)
 
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Sgt_Mike said:
Then It hit me I had helped a neighbor cut a maple some years ago and saved some of the log section (fireplace lengths).. I could slice off sections resulting in end grain maple. Greatly reducing cost.
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Ok well used the Miter and the tablesaw to rough out sections Yeahhhhh.... NOPE NOT Maple for sure... when we cut the tree I didn't pay attention to it other than the felling cut etc etc. (actually was worried more about Not hitting his house and the power lines).

LMAO Shannon (my neighbor) swore up and down it was Maple to my daughter whom is the one whom got the wood from him. When I cut into it I looked at the end grain and was like that is not maple. Then when I sectioned out a section and applied some of the fake Tungoil yepper the oil when all the way though a 1/4" section to the other face. Definitely confirmed it is not maple. Although the mystry wood but take on a really good looking hue ... so the prototype will be "firewood Shannon Maple" species :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
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Just a FYI for those interested, just messaged @cherokeetracker01 about his load block which will be more time consuming, than the coasters.
Which I'll do first (coasters) as I can play with Free Cad for a .500 S&W load block on a different computer while the coaster project is running it's flattening operations on the cnc. Which is a cheap version, versus what I had originally wanted. But it does work when I argue with it LOL. Chicom beep beep LOL (what I get for being cheap), actually it and I are getting along pretty good right now.
 
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