15 minute ar trigger job
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- Start date
varmithntr
New member
do search its on geocities- crappy computer here at work will not let me insert website you will need the pictures from the site.
15-Minute Practical Trigger Job for the AR-15
Disclaimer: If you can't follow these directions successfully, you should not be playing with
guns, especially AR-15's.
MATERIALS NEEDED
*Two Encyclopedias (you may sub two wood blocks, these are used to prop up the lower receiver)
*Small punch (for trigger/hammer pins)
*Large soft punch (3/8" Delrin rod or 3/8" wood dowel)
*Fine compound (#7 rubbing compound or Kit Scratch Out plastic polish)
*Wire Cutters
*Jeweler's Pliers (small pliers with no teeth in the jaws)
UNLOAD RIFLE
I had to say this, too. If you didn't know this, you should not be handling firearms.
SEPARATE UPPER RECEIVER FROM LOWER RECEIVER
(1) Remove the Safety (AR-15's have safeties, M16's have selectors) to allow easy removal of
the Trigger later. Turn the Safety 45 degrees, halfway between SAFE and FIRE. Lay the Lower
Receiver on its left side on the two encyclopedias (with the Web, they aren't good for anything
else) or wood blocks, covered with soft rags such that the Lower Receiver is blocked up, and the
Safety can be tapped out. Tap out the Safety with the large soft Delrin® punch or wood dowel.
With the Safety halfway between Safe and Fire it will pop out without having to remove the grip
and detent. Don't worry about losing the Safety Detent, as it is captured by a groove in its hole.
(2) Polish the sear surfaces. With the Hammer in the up, or fired position, place a dab of
polishing compound on the Hammer sear surface. To prevent the hammer from striking the
receiver and possibly breaking the bolt stop, place a strip of leather, rubber or plastic in front of
the hammer. [beeep] the Hammer and pull the Trigger. Repeat this 10 times. Put another dab of
compound on the Hammer's sear surface, and [beeep] and fire 10 more times.
(3) Now remove the Hammer first, then the Trigger and Disconnector, by tapping out their pins.
(4) Clean off every trace of compound from the Hammer and Trigger. Do it again to make sure.
Clean any compound from inside the Lower Receiver.
(5) Clip the right leg of the Hammer Spring to a length of ¼".
NOTE: I find that if you take the remaining leg of the hammer spring and "tighten" it by slightly twisting it in the direction the spring is wound will greatly improve hammer speed and strike. This insures 100% primer ignition.
(6) Bend both legs of the Trigger Spring UP approximately 25 degrees as per the diagram. Use
Jeweler's pliers for this. You do not want to leave marks in the spring. Smooth jawed pliers only!
(7) Reassemble the Trigger assembly with the Trigger Pin's outer retaining groove to the LEFT
side of the Receiver.
(8) Install the Safety. A little trick....Hold the detent down with the end of a ¼" punch while
tapping in the Safety from the other side.
(9) Install the Hammer. When installing the Hammer Pin it does not matter which side the outer
groove is on. Notice that the left leg of the Hammer Spring engages the outer groove of the
Trigger Pin, which you installed to be on the left side, retaining it in the Receiver. (You may
also want to use "Anti-Walk Pins". If you use these, install these pins so that the E-clips are
away from your body to prevent the E-clips from snagging on your clothing and possibly
snapping off. If you are right-handed, the E-clips should be on the right. And if you are left-handed,
the E-clips should be on the left.)
(10) Lubricate all the moving lower part, making sure you put a drop of oil on the Hammer sear
surface.
Caution: DO NOT modify the Trigger Spring without also modifying the Hammer Spring as
described.
I have used this trigger job method for about 10 years now, and have NEVER had it fail to pop
the cap. Hammer Spring force is only reduced by about 25%, and there is still plenty of power to
insure good ignition. There is still full sear engagement, so the trigger is not unsafe in any way.
This trigger job DOES result in a smoother, lighter trigger pull.
If you are unhappy with your results, at the most, you have only ruined two springs, three dollars
worth of parts. This slight polishing with the compound will not harm your Hammer and Trigger
in any way.
Good Shooting!
A Free Man
15-Minute Practical Trigger Job for the AR-15
Disclaimer: If you can't follow these directions successfully, you should not be playing with
guns, especially AR-15's.
MATERIALS NEEDED
*Two Encyclopedias (you may sub two wood blocks, these are used to prop up the lower receiver)
*Small punch (for trigger/hammer pins)
*Large soft punch (3/8" Delrin rod or 3/8" wood dowel)
*Fine compound (#7 rubbing compound or Kit Scratch Out plastic polish)
*Wire Cutters
*Jeweler's Pliers (small pliers with no teeth in the jaws)
UNLOAD RIFLE
I had to say this, too. If you didn't know this, you should not be handling firearms.
SEPARATE UPPER RECEIVER FROM LOWER RECEIVER
(1) Remove the Safety (AR-15's have safeties, M16's have selectors) to allow easy removal of
the Trigger later. Turn the Safety 45 degrees, halfway between SAFE and FIRE. Lay the Lower
Receiver on its left side on the two encyclopedias (with the Web, they aren't good for anything
else) or wood blocks, covered with soft rags such that the Lower Receiver is blocked up, and the
Safety can be tapped out. Tap out the Safety with the large soft Delrin® punch or wood dowel.
With the Safety halfway between Safe and Fire it will pop out without having to remove the grip
and detent. Don't worry about losing the Safety Detent, as it is captured by a groove in its hole.
(2) Polish the sear surfaces. With the Hammer in the up, or fired position, place a dab of
polishing compound on the Hammer sear surface. To prevent the hammer from striking the
receiver and possibly breaking the bolt stop, place a strip of leather, rubber or plastic in front of
the hammer. [beeep] the Hammer and pull the Trigger. Repeat this 10 times. Put another dab of
compound on the Hammer's sear surface, and [beeep] and fire 10 more times.
(3) Now remove the Hammer first, then the Trigger and Disconnector, by tapping out their pins.
(4) Clean off every trace of compound from the Hammer and Trigger. Do it again to make sure.
Clean any compound from inside the Lower Receiver.
(5) Clip the right leg of the Hammer Spring to a length of ¼".
NOTE: I find that if you take the remaining leg of the hammer spring and "tighten" it by slightly twisting it in the direction the spring is wound will greatly improve hammer speed and strike. This insures 100% primer ignition.
(6) Bend both legs of the Trigger Spring UP approximately 25 degrees as per the diagram. Use
Jeweler's pliers for this. You do not want to leave marks in the spring. Smooth jawed pliers only!
(7) Reassemble the Trigger assembly with the Trigger Pin's outer retaining groove to the LEFT
side of the Receiver.
(8) Install the Safety. A little trick....Hold the detent down with the end of a ¼" punch while
tapping in the Safety from the other side.
(9) Install the Hammer. When installing the Hammer Pin it does not matter which side the outer
groove is on. Notice that the left leg of the Hammer Spring engages the outer groove of the
Trigger Pin, which you installed to be on the left side, retaining it in the Receiver. (You may
also want to use "Anti-Walk Pins". If you use these, install these pins so that the E-clips are
away from your body to prevent the E-clips from snagging on your clothing and possibly
snapping off. If you are right-handed, the E-clips should be on the right. And if you are left-handed,
the E-clips should be on the left.)
(10) Lubricate all the moving lower part, making sure you put a drop of oil on the Hammer sear
surface.
Caution: DO NOT modify the Trigger Spring without also modifying the Hammer Spring as
described.
I have used this trigger job method for about 10 years now, and have NEVER had it fail to pop
the cap. Hammer Spring force is only reduced by about 25%, and there is still plenty of power to
insure good ignition. There is still full sear engagement, so the trigger is not unsafe in any way.
This trigger job DOES result in a smoother, lighter trigger pull.
If you are unhappy with your results, at the most, you have only ruined two springs, three dollars
worth of parts. This slight polishing with the compound will not harm your Hammer and Trigger
in any way.
Good Shooting!
A Free Man
Last edited:
Last edited:
varmithntr
New member
Thanks Leroy.
I did the above on my AR and it made a huge difference. To get it even better I took Jewlers Rouge on a cotton wheel and used a dremel to polish up the contact points. There's creep now but it breaks very crisp. MUCH better than the std. milspec trigger.
There's a guy on ar15.com that's getting praise for his trigger work he does on stock triggers also. Costs 36 bucks or something like that. Guess he can get it down to 3lbs with no creep.. Not sure how/what he does though.
There's a guy on ar15.com that's getting praise for his trigger work he does on stock triggers also. Costs 36 bucks or something like that. Guess he can get it down to 3lbs with no creep.. Not sure how/what he does though.