.308 Muzzle Break

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wyshadow

New member
There are a few things I've done to my guns that have really improved my shooting. One mod I did was to a air rifle I use to own. A .22 prod and to those who don't know which gun I'm referring to, a prod stands for marauder pistol. On this air pistol, I installed a TJ barrel which change that gun from a 30 yard and under gun to 75+ yard gun.
Another mod I did was installing a Timney trigger on my 22-250 which made a world of difference.
My third mod I've done was installed a muzzle break to my savage .308 and after my first shooting session, I wish I've done this mod a long time ago. Although the muzzle break is made for a .338 cal, it still made a big big difference. So much so that my next rifle build, my 243 will get a muzzle break also but this time the next break will be specifically made for a .243 cal. I only problem I see from adding a break is I lost 345 fps. Not sure why that is. Maybe someone can enlighten me.
So if any of you guys are thinking of installing a muzzle break, I highly recommend it.

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I have taken my Muzzle Breaks of my AR's. They are worthless.
I do use ASR mounts for my Specwar suppressor.
Anything on the end of your barrel other than a can is worthless.
I do have a brake from Williams Gun Sight on my Ruger 77/1974 338 win mag.
It is very nice and the elk do not mind. It helps with recoil.
Williams does the best brake job you can buy. They have a good gun shop.
Brakes are like fishing plugs they make them to catch your money.
 
No way that adding a brake cost you velocity.

Gentry muzzle brakes throw the sound 15* forward and you can sure tell the difference in the concussion on your head...I promise.

Williams Gunsight makes one of the most effective muzzle breaks on the market, bar none. I had one put on a 7 Mag that reduced it to a level between a 223 Varmint-22/250 level Varmint MAXIMUM!

For a guy that likes to see his hits, the muzzle break is one heck of an invention. I believe that guys can shoot a gun with a brake much more accurately due to the diminished recoil, but never fire one without ear protection.

If you like a tactical muzzle break that is easy for the owner to time, then look at the Seekins muzzle break.

As you speak of muzzle breaks, you should think about a Tuner in addition to a brake. Amazing how easy it is to tune a load to shoot bug holes. Harrells Precision makes an excellent tuner/ Brake for $95 shipped, and the family is World class people to work with.
 
How was the velocity loss verified? This doesn't seem right, unless you cut about 12" off the barrel before fitting the brake or significantly changed the load/ammunition used.
 
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I have been installing muzzle brakes on rifles and hunting hanging for 35 years now, and at no time, on literally thousands of muzzle brake installations, have I ever seen a rifle lose muzzle velocity!

Me personally, I shoot a muzzle brake on every rifle and hunting handgun that I own, without exception!

My reason for using a muzzle brake for one, is the great reduction in recoil. My second reason is because is allows me to be able to watch the bullet impact it's target through the scope.

The only downside to a muzzle brake is the NOISE!!! I will however put up with the noise, for the two reasons mentioned above.

For the 345 fps. velocity loss, if the barrel length did not change, and the muzzle brake was an add on, ie., threaded onto the barrel, then it is not possible...
 
Originally Posted By: pyscodogYou lost 345 fps? You may end up losing a few friends too. They are loud, but they work.

A good MB helps reduce muzzle jump and that enables shooter to observe impact. As Ackleyman pointed out, not all brakes are created equal. Direction of ports help deflect the blast/sound, but hearing protection a must. Dtech builds a great brake as well.

Bought a Savage scout and the short barrel w/MB. Concussion from muzzle blast was felt every shot. Fired a shot at a coyote one day, not realizing right muff was slightly pushed aside by cheek piece when I shouldered the rifle. Resulted in permanent damage to right ear from that one shot. Removed brake next day!

Muzzle jump after removal is noticeable, blast toward shooter reduced considerably as well. I won't shoot any rifle w/o hearing protection, but in the field it is not hard to miss the fact that a muff is not sealed perfectly.

Regards,
hm
 
Originally Posted By: ackleyman
As you speak of muzzle breaks, you should think about a Tuner in addition to a brake. Amazing how easy it is to tune a load to shoot bug holes. Harrells Precision makes an excellent tuner/ Brake for $95 shipped, and the family is World class people to work with.

As always Keith knows of which he speaks. On his recommendation I bought one of those Harrell's tuneable muzzle brakes for my .243 AI and not only does it keep recoil down around the level of my .223 it also alows me to fine tune my group size just by turning the micrometer type of adjustment in or out. Trust me- works great! Thanks again, Keith!
 
Originally Posted By: 1ASSASSINI have been installing muzzle brakes on rifles and hunting hanging for 35 years now, and at no time, on literally thousands of muzzle brake installations, have I ever seen a rifle lose muzzle velocity!

Me personally, I shoot a muzzle brake on every rifle and hunting handgun that I own, without exception!

My reason for using a muzzle brake for one, is the great reduction in recoil. My second reason is because is allows me to be able to watch the bullet impact it's target through the scope.

The only downside to a muzzle brake is the NOISE!!! I will however put up with the noise, for the two reasons mentioned above.

For the 345 fps. velocity loss, if the barrel length did not change, and the muzzle brake was an add on, ie., threaded onto the barrel, then it is not possible...

That's a lot of muzzle brakes. You've been absent on the shotgun thread. Are you accepting the STS challenge?
 
Didn't want to see this post turn into another one like the shotgun post did so I made no real comment. But I have had several brakes on rifles myself and never seen a velocity loss. Loss of recoil yes and usually quite a bit louder but no velocity loss. I guess anything is possible but highly doubtful in this case. I would suspect a bad reading on the chrony.
 

I got my 345 fps difference from Strelok pro. I noticed my bullet drop was a lot more at 500 yards with a 100 yard zero. The only different thing I did to the gun was add the muzzle break. The gun was still very accurate; just POI shiffed at 100 yards zero. I was still able to hit soda cans at 500 yards. I can shoot the gun over the chronograph tomorrow and measure the speed with the break and without the break
 
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Was able to make it out to the range today. I shot the gun over the chronograph about 8 times but the chrony only read 5 of the shots. I was very disappointed by the numbers and shooting at a 100 yards, the gun couldn't group at all. Chrony numbers are 2564, 2588, 2534, 2478, and 2520. Average - 2536 ES - 110 SD - 42 and these numbers showed in the groups. Was getting a flyer out of every 4th shot and made for a frustrating day.
I tried to take off the break at the range but I couldn't do it. Came back to the house and put the gun in the vise. I was able to remove the break. Will try going back to the range this tuesday.
 
I was shooting 130 grain Speer varmint bullets loaded with 45.4 grains of VMR-4350 using Winchester brass. This gun can shoot this load under one inch at 100 yards. The 130 grain is not as accurate as the 168 grain vmax bullet but for testing I don't shoot this bullet until I know everything is working
After getting horrible results, I check my head space with a go/no go gauge and the barrel is spot on
 


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