600-800 yard round?

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What bullet at what MV do you shoot in your Lapua by chance? Also what scope and how many MOA base do you have to be able to have a 100y zero and dial to 2K?

Just curious because I am getting ready to piece together a mile long (1760 yards) 30" diameter steel target out here and give her a try this winter with my DE built, 700 BDL, 28" HART stainless/fluted w/brake in 338 EDGE w/300g SMKs at 2825fps and a Leupold vx3, 6.5-20x50 LR sittin on top once I get a LR base ordered up... Right now I'm using a standard 2 piece leupold PRW weaver style base/rings and I can get out to 1200 yards before I run out of elevation adjustment. Thinking I"ll definately need at least the 20 MOA base and a zero of maybe 300 yards to get there. Haven't done all the math and numbers quite yet, but its a fair amount of MOAs when your shooting that far. It'll be a lot of fun either way, hope to catch it on video, not everyday you get to shoot at a mile. Hopefully hit her a couple times anyways. Would make my day anyways...
 
Originally Posted By: kyotekiller25What bullet at what MV do you shoot in your Lapua by chance? Also what scope and how many MOA base do you have to be able to have a 100y zero and dial to 2K?

I shoot a DTA SRS with a 28" barrel. 300gr scenars at 2850fps.

40MOA DTA base and a premier 5-25 scope.
 
Originally Posted By: orkanOriginally Posted By: 2muchgunSure.

I do not use any of my dedicated LR stuff to shoot 100yds or less. If i did, a 200yd zero would still get that done without any turret spinning. That said, with a 200yd zero I have to spin turrets a lot less to get on target at longer ranges.

Does this make sense to you?

So the difference in elevation from 100yds to 200yds results in less turret spinning at longer ranges?

The come up from 100yds zero to 200yd is about 1.5 minutes, maybe 2, on most things. Barely noticable. So you zero at 200yds to save 1/5th of a turn or less on your turret?

edit, go ahead and keep attacking me personally. You lack the ammo to combat this from a fact standpoint.

That's funny stuff right there. I don't believe that I attacked you personally. I made a statement saying a 100yd zero did not make much sense, IMO. You jumped all over it and picked a fight. At least that's how the thread reads.

As far as the zero thing, the mere fact that you don't get it kinda scares me. Have you ever read a ballistic table with given trajectories ala various zeroes? Please do so, then get back with me. You might learn something and be capable of more intelligent conversation upon your return.......
 
So predictable. Come back with anything but a fact based argument. You say "I do it to save time turning the turret."

I say, so you do it to save a fifth of a turn? ... and you come back with more of your angry antagonistic crap.

I don't need any lessons from you chief. I go through about 10,000rnds per year in my 308's alone. I know all about turning the turrets.
 
It should be pretty self explanatory to such an accomplished long range shooter that you have boasted to be.......
 
The difference I came up with from a chart I just ran with my 264 and 140g amax was actually surprising. 140g amax at 3100fps, .585 BC. Difference at 1K between the 100y and 200y zero was exactly 1 MOA, or 4 clicks, big whoop really...With a 300 yard zero it was 2.3 MOA. However as 2MG pointed out, a 200y zero makes more sense for hunting because you can hold dead on from muzzle out to around 300 yards before you have to start dialing. Its just faster and quicker in the situations you encounter while hunting when you dont have the time to range and dial, especially coyote hunting...

Anyways, I dont claim to know it all, but I know enough to know what I'm talking about when I make a reply most the time to make it worth someones while...
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgunI made a statement saying a 100yd zero did not make much sense, IMO. You jumped all over it and picked a fight.

I asked you WHY? If that's jumping all over you, then you have social issues.

Quote:Can you explain how it doesn't make any sense?

There was my exact question. To which you wondered if I had any long range experience. This is just laughable. I ask you to defend your position, and all you do is attack me for mine.
 
I did not attack you. I told you why, you just fail to understand the big picture.

You tell me why you think 100yds is better.....
 
Thanks for sharing your info.

What size target do you shoot at that range and what is your success rate in calm conditions?

I am able to hit a 15" gong 9 of 10 laying prone w/bipod at 1K in good conditions with my 338 EDGE. I"m hoping the 30" target will be sufficient for 1760 yards, which is roughly a 1.75 MOA target at that distance. We shall see. I'm excited anyways.
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgunYou tell me why you think 100yds is better.....

1) You never pick up a gun NOT knowing where it's zero'd.
2) Anyone else can pick up one of my guns and know where it's zero'd.
3) If I want to shoot something in the eyeball at 100yds, I do it. I don't have to hold. I do most my hunting shots inside of 150yds if I can help it... so that is not a situation where I want to hold.

I have more, but I have to tend to the kid. I'll finish later
 
1) I don't either

2) Nobody else picks up my guns. If they do, I am there to tell them anything they need to know before they use it

3) I thought we were talking about LR, or at least 600-800yd rifles here? Now you are talking 150yds or less shots? I have "brush guns" for such occasions that are not zeroed at 200yds. They are zeroed at 100yds. But those are not the topic of the conversation here.

Either way, 1.5" isn't too hard to compensate for at 100yds with a 200yd zero.
 
I think someone needs a hug! LOL! But I'm not saying who.
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Hint: the differentials get bigger as the yardages get longer.

Therein would lie your answer as to why a 200yd zero makes more sense at longer ranges.

Another reason is, with a 200yd zero, you can still hold on hair at 100-300yds and hit your target in the vitals. With a 100yd zero you cannot.

That's about it, really.......
 
Easy diaper change... #1 instead of #2.
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4) All my drop charts start at 100yds, and they contain no low holds. Everything is up, nothing is down. Simplicity at its finest.

5) It's just always seemed easier for me to work when things are always simple. This is simple for me. No low holds, always high. Easy math. Easy charts.

Notice I didn't say anywhere that your way was WRONG. I certainly didn't patronize you by suggesting you don't know what you are doing, as you did me. This way works well for me and it sure as he11 is "practical" for me. It's very practical for most LR shooters I have been around as well.

You zero at 200 and hold low for 100. I zero at 100, and hold high for 200. How is it different, and HOW IS IT NOT PRACTICAL?

All I asked you was why you said it is not practical. If you'd have simply answered instead of trying to suggest I obviously didn't know what I was doing for asking a question like that... it would have been a lot easier... don't you agree? There are more ways to shoot long range than YOUR way.
 
I tell you, this "EXPERT" discussion is making what I said on the "am i the only one" thread look more and more intelligent by the second.

Perhaps I was on to something...

From my Federal ballistics calculator, a 100 yard zero with a 308 results in 90-105 ish inches of drop at 600, with a round or two in the 85" range.

Not the flattest round...
 
And all I said was that I did not think it made much sense to zero a long range rifle for short range. But now you are telling me you shoot it at short range
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It makes more sense to me to not have to dial at 100-300yds on critters, and dial less the farther out I go, as compared to a 100yd zero.

I never said your way was wrong either, I just said that I don't know of any guys whom I shoot long range with that use a 100yd zero and that it doesn't make much sense to me.

So I'll guess we'll agree to disagree........
 
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