Accurate Rifle!!!!

A lot of good insight on this subject. If i can get a gun to shoot 3/4" consistantly at 100yds from a bipod and rear bag in the prone position, im happy. Other shooting positions i know its up to me to make things happen. I dont hunt yotes with shootin sticks, i shoot resting on my knees. Around my area 200yds is a good poke when calling, if i was farther i might use them. When i want to make a precision 200+yd shot on a chuck i will shoot prone. When i want to test myself i shoot off my knees like in a caling situation. Last summer i shot a baby chuck that was laying down in the head at 180yds off my knees. Could i do it again maybe maybe not.
 
Reminds me of a backwoods fellow here a while back claiming "1/4 inch groups" all day. When confronted and asked to show targetS, he couldn't. Then he admitted he thought the term "1/4 inch group" was "just a saying" that referred to general accuracy. He admitted his rifle won't shoot anywhere close to 0.25 inches not even on a good day.
 
Here is my hunting rifle, a factory Savage 223 with a Nikon scope. I bedded the action myself. Here I was testing reloads (seating depths), each 5-shot group has a different case overall length. Shot at 100 yards laser verified. I'm not a benchrest shooter, and this setup is definately more accurate than I am. The weak link is clearly ME.

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Originally Posted By: steve154I have to admit that the internet ruined me when I first started really shooting and reloading 4-5 years ago. I have sold several perfectly fine rifles that would shoot at least 1 inch with absolute certainty and 3/4-1/2 inch on good days. I wrestled with why they wouldn't shoot 1/2 all day long, every day. When I think about all of the time and money I spent on tinkiering with loads for mass produced, stock, factory rifles, it makes my gut hurt.

It drove me crazy that all the guys on the internet were shooting 1/4 inch groups, all day long (as long as they did their part, of course...I would like to [beeep] slap the guy that coined that phrase) with similar guns and their loads and my guns and loads were so inconsistant that all I could expect were honest, 1 to 3/4 inch groups on a reasonably regular basis. Those rifles became junk in my mind.

I have realized that my expectations for these rifles and my shooting and reloading skills were way too high. The fact, for me, is that if I can get a rifle to shoot 1 to 3/4 inch groups, to a cocnsistant point of aim, I am doing just fine. What good is a rifle that shoots 1/8 inch groups "all day long" but, the groups print an inch left today and then 2 inches low tomorrow? That is not accuracy. I will take the rifle that regularly puts the shots in a 1 inch group that surrounds the point of aim.

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That's a good post. Very true.

I too would like to [beeep] slap that guy!
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I think how a rifle shoots from one day to the next or even one group to the next has a lot to do with cheek weld,pressure on the stock,ect.As you shooters know a rifle must recoil in the exact manner shot after shot to hit the same place. I believe many rifles are capable of 1/4 inch groups except for the inconsistency of the shooter.
 
Catshooter we must be the only ones that enjoy the stalk and kill of the fly. My goal is to get one on the wing with my rifle.I have got bumble bees with a .22 but I think I am ready for a bigger challenge.The problem is it is so hard to get a hunt and kill shot on film.
 
Originally Posted By: tnshootistCatshooter we must be the only ones that enjoy the stalk and kill of the fly. My goal is to get one on the wing with my rifle.I have got bumble bees with a .22 but I think I am ready for a bigger challenge.The problem is it is so hard to get a hunt and kill shot on film.

Not the only ones. We do it to, but we use Karo syrup smeared on wax paper/butchers paper.

Chupa
 
Originally Posted By: ChupathingyOriginally Posted By: tnshootistCatshooter we must be the only ones that enjoy the stalk and kill of the fly. My goal is to get one on the wing with my rifle.I have got bumble bees with a .22 but I think I am ready for a bigger challenge.The problem is it is so hard to get a hunt and kill shot on film.

Not the only ones. We do it to, but we use Karo syrup smeared on wax paper/butchers paper.

Chupa

Chupa-dude...

That's not fair shooting - they get stuck to the syrup and can't get away.

That's no different than tying deer to a stump and shooting them
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Originally Posted By: CatShooterOriginally Posted By: ChupathingyOriginally Posted By: tnshootistCatshooter we must be the only ones that enjoy the stalk and kill of the fly. My goal is to get one on the wing with my rifle.I have got bumble bees with a .22 but I think I am ready for a bigger challenge.The problem is it is so hard to get a hunt and kill shot on film.

Not the only ones. We do it to, but we use Karo syrup smeared on wax paper/butchers paper.

Chupa

Chupa-dude...

That's not fair shooting - they get stuck to the syrup and can't get away.

That's no different than tying deer to a stump and shooting them
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LMAO.. Cheater Chupa
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How come nobody told me tying deer to a stump was cheating
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That's just what I was taught to use. I always thought it was used because it was clear and easier to see the flies. But you're right, they don't move much after they land!

Chupa
 
Would a fly be a predator?I think so,especially those greenhead horse flies and they all will draw blood if given the chance.In face I read one time that flies kill many people each year,can't remember details but I can believe in some places they could carry deadly disease.Of course shooting them one at a time may not help the problem a great deal.
 
Yep, flies and the thumb tacks, and push pins that hold up the targets.

My kids love to take empty 22 LR brass and stick them through the bullet holes, and then shoot at just the heads.

Horse flies are definite predators! If you wear a light blue shirt, they'll mostly leave you alone, don't ask me why.
 
After I am sure I am happily sighted in from a more solid rest, I am much more concerned about trying to hit what I am aiming at with the sticks or free-hand.
 
Originally Posted By: VAhuntrHow many "sub MOA" groups does a rifle have to shoot before it can be declared a sub MOA shooter?
All of the groups it shoots. If it and the shooter can not keep all under a MOA, it is not a sub MOA rifle shooter combination.

The worst groups are what matters.

Jack
 
Originally Posted By: VAhuntrHow many "sub MOA" groups does a rifle have to shoot before it can be declared a sub MOA shooter? I'd say all the ones from a bench where you're shooting a proven load. When (if?) a guy leaves the bench and practices in real hunting situations there will be groups over 1 MOA, but that doesn't mean it's not an under MOA gun or shooter.
 
Originally Posted By: Jack RobertsOriginally Posted By: VAhuntrHow many "sub MOA" groups does a rifle have to shoot before it can be declared a sub MOA shooter?
All of the groups it shoots. If it and the shooter can not keep all under a MOA, it is not a sub MOA rifle shooter combination.

The worst groups are what matters.

Jack

The problem lies when you introduce the shooter into the equation, IMO. I feel there are a lot of rifles that will shoot very well with great marksmen behind them.
 
Originally Posted By: VAhuntrThe problem lies when you introduce the shooter into the equation, IMO. I feel there are a lot of rifles that will shoot very well with great marksmen behind them.

IMO, I feel there are a lot of guys out there that find it easy to blame theirselves because they don't want to think they spent that much money & the rifle wont shoot like the same "rifles on the internet"... From a good solid rest, holding MOA at 100 yards is not that hard. Unless the shooter flinches at the trigger or conditions are BAD, shouldn't the rifle shoot MOA at 100 yards just like the hold?

Sure you can get about any rifle to print a good group or even great group if you shoot it enough. But like Jack said, the worst group is what you need to be thinking about. Those wild "flyers" count. I used to think that about every rifle out there was a MOA or better shooter, now I know better. Still, about any rifle is better than the shooter in field positions (excluding prone from bi-pod).
 
If I can consistently shoot sub MOA groups with a gun, than I consider it accurate.

Will I have an occasional off shot, you betcha! Could be the load, could be the dude next to me blasting away his 300 WinMag, could be that my powder measure was a hair off on that particular loaded round, could be the bug that landed on my nose, etc. But, if I am 95% certain that consistent loads will consistently shoot sub MOA, I consider it an accurate gun.
 
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