ammo storage

RKR

RKR

Member
My father house recently burned down and in it all his ammo, powder , etc. We are staring to rebuild the house as well as the ammo stores, but I would like to store it in a safer place, like in a building that can’t burn. Does any one know how or have a web link to a site that tells you how to package ammo to be stored long term in an uncontrolled environment?
I thought of double sealing it in 2 vacuum bags and sealing it up in PCV Pipe with two end caps. Am I on the right track?
We can’t afford to loss another store of ammo and components to some unforeseen disaster (literally, the price of everything is going through the roof). I would just as soon have it stored in a safe place where I can use it as needed
Thanks ahead of time! RKR
 
That would probably due for fire, heat, and smoke protection; but not water damage. We did salvage some ammo from the basement, but it was all water logged and will likely have some duds. I plan to shoot it up and pull the bullets from the miss fires, but I am looking for some way to store it that is darn near bomb proof. Thanks for the suggestion though. RKR
 
Just talking out loud here, but the weather proof electrical conduit enclosure boxes used for pull points in conduit runs usually have rubber gaskets, screw down lids, and come with mounting tabs to be layed flat or wall mounted. One of these inside a concrete floor vault would be very waterproof since most PVC enclosures don't come drilled so that you can custom fit them to your application. The concrete will take care of pressure and heat, the PVC will take care of air and water. All you have to worry about is keeping the powder from sweating now. BTW these boxes can be ordered in various sizes from 6"X6" to several feet square.
 
How about surplus GI ammo cans w/rubber sealed lids. Econonmical and available at many surplus stores, Cheaper than Dirt and others.

Our CMP club was recently issuing 1967 vintage ball ammo at matches which had been stored in hot garages prior to issue w/no problems.

Regards,
hm
 
Normally I would say store in original containers in wooden cabinest with solid doors unlocked. Remember you are talking about explosives, the more they are contained the bigger the bang if they get hot enough to detonate. I had a house fire a few years ago, and lost all my ammo and powderas well so I understand what your talking about, it has just been recent that I have started buying ammo and components in bulk again. Mine was in the basement stored on open shelves in a locked room when the floor above the gun room collapsed it made a real bright hot fire for a few minutes till the loaded stuff started popping Then the firemen all pulled back and I got to watch the rest of my home go up. There is no such thing as a fire proof building even if built from concreate the stuff you have in it wil be flamible. My policy changed on what I have on hand. Since replaceing most of my firearms I tend to only keep five hundred rounds or less in any one chambering and less than ten pounds total of all powder and one thousand of each type primer. The powder is in a heavy wooden box with an insecured heavy wood lid, if it goes it will expend its force pushing the lid up and blowing the sides off. Primers are kept in the original cardboard box and plastic trays in a fifty cal GI ammo canjust off th floor next to a wall. Loaded ammo is still in a wooden cabinet with heavy unlocked doors lined on the inside with 1/4" cement board.
It and all my firearms are in a room in my garage sepperate from the house the office room is almost as secure as a safe from entry Steel doors dead bolt locks ect. and it is all in a steel building The office walls are six inches thick and well insulated and the whole building is temp/humidity controlled.
 
Well if you are rebuilding and you can excavate a cellar if mineral rights allow and groundwater is not an issue than this might be your secure vault:

Obtain from a precast concrete manufacturer a sewer manhole with the top cone and water tight frame and cover.

Next dig the manhole in so the top cover is either flush with the cellar floor (excavating contractor and foundation contractor can help you establish the height)and the rest is all buried well below the basement floor. I would pack stone around it to minimize settlement. This will eliminate a dropped floor around the unit. Even if watertable is an issue sewer manholes will not float if set in this manner (yes concrete floats!) and sewer manholes are very easy to make watertight and can be tested easily if you have municipal sewers in you area the contractor should be able to line up a vacuum test on it once finished.

The cover can be flush with the floor and the steel rim showing or set up a few inches if you are concerned about the gasket in the cover failing. In other words a second line of defense allowing a freeboard to pond water around befor cover is underwater.

I would bet that you could do this for $3500. total. Nice thing is it is cooled by the soil around it and only exposed to heat from the fire on the floor above it but the soil will keep it from getting to hot.

Drawback is its concrete and you will still need humidity protection in the vault and the cover is a pain in the neck requiring a shovel and pinch bar to open every time. Finally they typically only come in 4 or 6 foot diameter with depths custom to reasonable expectations (4-10').

Cheaper option and less watertight is a septic tank installed in the same manner but bouyancy and access are more of a consideration. Septic tanks can give you a ton of room 50 sq ft for less than $2000. but this is without a groundwater consideration and having to buy a cover and brick it to grade. Then you will need to imporvise a ladder but depth is typically about 5 ft minimum with spacers adding to cost and 2ft per spacer.

Good luck.
 
Back
Top