Annealing brass...

Orneryolfart357

New member
Im interested in the longivity of Brass... at what intervals should one anneal? Can a piece of brass show signs that it needs annealing? Tell tale signs? Anyway I have not tried this process yet, and the .223 brass seems to be holding up after a few reloads. Your ideas please? Thanks... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
 
probably just a firing, maybe two before some of it would crack. I'm planning on every 5-6 firings for my 25 WSSM. Every caliber is different, and some brands hold up better than others.
 
Brass work hardens, so the hotter your loads the more often you have to
anneal it. 6 to 8 firings for my 243 has been the norm and I am a grain and
a half under max load. Never shot enough through the stw to get through the
case count I have more than 2 or 3 times so I don't know on it yet. The 22-250
I have such a mixed lot of brass I just toss them as they split or seem hardened
when I trim. At the price of brass now-a-days that may have to change. Of
coarse in a semi that you full length size for you may want to anneal more
often.
 
When you have streached to max case length, is a good time to trim and then anneal, I have never set a specific time to anneal cases other than when I notice they have streached to max But I always start new brass trimmed to minimum length. Or trim to min at the first relaoding on factory, I don't shoot much factory. My usual procedude is a buy a lot of 500 pieces or whatever, when I unpack the brass I carefuly inspect each piece, this includes measuring. I then FL size and trim each piece. then devide them into fifty case lots, in MTM boxes. I may break some down into twenty or ten case lots when working up loads. But I keep track of each case and replace it in the fifty case lot it came in originally. That way every thing is always the same or as close as is possible. If I notice one case neck spliting I anneal and trim every case in that lot. Back to minimum I have some botle neck cases that have been loaded ten or twelve times, and near twice that on some straght wall rifle and handgun cases.
 
I do it about every 5th loading on 'normal' loads or every 4th loading on 'warmer' loads.

My indicator is the OD of the neck after sizing. When the brass work hardens, it will be a hair larger OD.
 
I just started annealing due to the cost increase and some of the hard to find (17FB) stuff.
I'm doing it at five reloads, but I'm not convinced that it's going to save that much since the primer pocket's seem to start giving it up about the fifth reload anyway.
I may go to every third reload and then see how the primer pockets are at six.

As far as trimming goes. If you will get one of Sinclair's case length gages and measure your chamber you'll probably find that you never need to trim. I try to keep the lengths even but since most chambers are long anyway it's nice to be able to still get some neck tention while chasing the lands in long throated factory chambers.
I use a bump die and seldom trim after evening them up the first time.

YMMV

Good post. There are lots of opinions on annealing.
 
Another thing you can watch for, and this is especially helpful when you're dealing with p'dog qtys of cases.......

Watch for your SD to increase substantially (I'm talking a two to threefold increase in SD), when shooting the same brass/recipe. This is often a sign of inconsistent neck tension, which is often caused by the aforementioned work hardening. Not all cases harden equally, and a variance in velocity noticeably outside the norm can often be attributed to that.

My 6mm went from an SD of around 12 to almost 30 seemingly overnight. Simply annealing the cases brought it back down to normal again.

Mike
 


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