Any Benelli Experts Out There?(Got Her Done)

LUCKYDOG

Active member
I hunted hard with my M2 this year in dirt pits. I decided to give it a deep cleaning. I have it completely torn down. I'm down to the bolt that holds the recoil spring in the stock. It does not want to come off. Does it have lock tite on it? Am I turning it the wrong way? Any pointers? I don't want to booger it up so I'll probably take it to the GS if someone can't give me exact advice. Thanks!

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It's broke forever, you should just box up that pile of parts and send it to me for safe disposal!

Wish I could help, nothing in the owners manual on removing it?
 
If you're not over your head yet I would clean what you got to & put it back together. Give a wipe with the lightly oiled cloth, use some 'gunscrubber' spray for any tight areas.
 
I replaced the recoil springs in a SBE1 and SBE2. In both I had to heat that bolt to loosen up the Locktite (??). I did this by holding the bolt over the gas flame of my kitchen stove. In a couple minutes it started to sizzle and melt. I was then able to use a pair of pliers to remove the bolt. I didn't use Locktite when I re-assembled the units and they haven't loosened up.

Be careful as you completely remove that bolt! If you don't put a nail in the small hole just below the bolt the recoil spring will go flying across the room.
 
Plenty of guys end up bending that recoil spring tube trying to muscle that nut off. It does require high heat and you should support the tube and receiver while turning the screw/nut/bolt thingy out. It can be done with some care and patience. There is the risk of fouling up that recoil spring tube if done incorrectly.

There is an alternative. You can also flush the tube out with a generous flooding of gun scrubber type spray and work the spring from the receiver end multiple times and allow to drain and dry through the weep holes at the bottom of the tube. You can get plenty of grit and rusty colored debris out of those holes; just keep flushing until clean fluid drains out. Then apply a very light lubricant like Rem-Oil in the same manner from the receiver end angling the spray in from various angles again working the spring multiple times to ensure the lubricant disperses evenly all around. Let any excess lubricant drain from the weep holes at the bottom and call it good. I would make sure this lubricant was a light type that would not gum up with grit or stiffen in cold weather.
 
Originally Posted By: FurhunterClean enough, put it back together and be done with it.

I agree, I've had mine for 16 years and have never taken it down that far for cleaning. I just give it an occasional cursory cleaning and it runs as good as the day I bought it. Better actually because everything's worn nice and smooth.
 
GC gave some good advice. However, I prefer to take mine apart and clean it. It's pretty simple to do. I LIGHTLY clamped my receiver in a vise, with padded jaws. I just used an old towel for the padding. I clamped it just tight enough to hold it. Then I used a propane torch to heat the very end of the tube, and the nut. I heated for maybe 10 seconds at a time, and checked fir looseness of the nut after each ten seconds. Use the appropriate sized wrench for the nut, and not a pair of plies,, or you'll booger up the nut. I never heated mine until it sizzled, on any of my three benellis. Eventually the nut loosened right up. After you get the nut loose, drape a large towel over it, and loosen it the rest of the way. The towel prevents the spring and nut from flying across the room. No need for messing around with a nail in the hole. After seeing how much dirt, grime, goo, powder flakes, etc. comes out of my tube at the end if each year, there's no way I'd ever not clean mine once a year. It's not that hard to do, and you'll be glad you did it. Just don't force the nut too hard, and you won't mess anything up. It will come out when it gets hot enough. When you put the spring back in, apply a light coating of oil, like hopes elite, or clp, and then wipe the excess off. Any excess oil is what holds all that grime and gunk in there in the first place. I'd say 85% of cycling issues with benellis can be attributed to that recoil tube never being cleaned. Good luck, and let us know how you make out!
 
+1 on the recoil spring cleaning. The early sbe and m1 super90's had a smaller diameter steel tube more prone to corrosion than the later and current sbe ii and all m2's which have a larger diameter aluminum tube. I have changed out several original sbe with the stainless sure cycle tubes and spring be ause they were so corroded. I haven't abused my m2 enough and learned the hard way on my sbe on cleaning. If you can't get it stripped all the way down after underwater excursion in the field spray it down with your solvent of choice and stand with the barrel down so it doesn't pool in the bottom of the stock. As said above a little heat and a padded vise is the answer to disassembly. Good shooting.
 
Originally Posted By: FurhunterClean enough, put it back together and be done with it.

It's definitely not clean enough. When you work the recoil plunger you can hear the grit inside. Like I said, I hunted hard in dirt pits. It can get your gun very dirty.

I don't think I want to heat up the gun though. I've got a great smith that will do it and not charge me much at all if anything. I'll let him take it apart, then I'll clean it and put it back together.

Thanks for the info.
 
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Originally Posted By: duckstopperI replaced the recoil springs in a SBE1 and SBE2. In both I had to heat that bolt to loosen up the Locktite (??). I did this by holding the bolt over the gas flame of my kitchen stove. In a couple minutes it started to sizzle and melt. I was then able to use a pair of pliers to remove the bolt. I didn't use Locktite when I re-assembled the units and they haven't loosened up.

Be careful as you completely remove that bolt! If you don't put a nail in the small hole just below the bolt the recoil spring will go flying across the room.

Thanks for the info. I was wondering about the lock tite, when I put it back together. If I'm taking it down that far a couple of times a year, lock tite is probably not needed.

It looks like a job, what I've done so far but it's really just one nut more than a regular cleaning.
 
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The nuts have a built in lock washer of sorts on them. They won't come loose. Not sure why they put whatever on them(doesn't look like loc tite) in the first place. The smith is going to have to heat it as well to get it off. It's just a matter of who you trust more, yourself, or him. It sounds like your on a pretty good level with him, so by all means if you're not comfortable doing it, let him. I'm like you. My guns are never "clean enough" until they are 100% clean. Each of them gets completely disassembled once a year and cleaned to perfection.
 
I have a Montefeltro that was owned by an old friend that sat thru rain and snow and whatever, and never cleaned it. Haven't had the spring out yet - I know it's rusty. I sue to flush and lube it as best I could in place for him. One day I'll have to I imagine. He's gone, but it's still ticking.
 
Almost sounds like they might be using something like Red Loctite. If so I almost always had to use heat to break the parts loose with the Red on them. As Borden811 said, Don't us a pliers on the stud, get the right size wrench or use a Cresent Wrench. And lastly, if you want to us Loctite during reassembeling it use the Blue Loctite. This is the "Removeable" Loctite. Make sure all the parts are "oil free" before putting the Blue on.
 
Luckydog,

I just had my SBE2 torn completely apart last night for a deep clean. Its going to MO for a snowgoose hunt in two weeks and it was due up for a complete clean. Dont waste your time going to a gunsmith to have it done.

Benelli uses the black lock tite on the nut. Use a heat gun, not a torch. Heat it up and use an actual wrench on the nut. Do not use a crecent wrench. once you have it hot, put the reciever between your knees and it will come right off.

once you have it off, run hot water and dawn dish soap down the tube and spring. you will be amazed at how dirty it is. Allow the parts to dry and lightly spray with a quality oil (g96, breakfree) and put it back together. It is the one part that needs to be well oiled.

A helpful tip, when putting the spring back in, have a small punch or allen wrench handy that fits the small pin hole in the tube. Getting the nut to start square with the spring in is a pain in the [beeep]. Push the spring in and put the allen wrench in the hole to hold the spring. This will keep the 20 minute search for parts under the couch from happening.

Do not put locktite back on. I tear mine apart twice a year ( before deer season and before waterfowl season). I have never had a problem with it coming loose and its alot less hassle the next time you clean it.

About once a year, I take the whole gun to the local implement and run it through the parts washer to deep clean out all the grime. I hunt in some nasty stuff and shoot thousands of rounds a year through mine. If you run it in a parts washer, you must completely oil everything as the metal is stripped of all lube.

VM

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Originally Posted By: Varmint Master Heat it up and use an actual wrench on the nut. Do not use a crecent wrench. once you have it hot, put the reciever between your knees and it will come right off.



Yep, don't use a Crescent wrench.
I have a 13mm and a 17mm deep well 6 point socket in my Benelli cleaning stuff. I haven't had any of mine apart lately, but I'm 99.9% sure the 17mm socket is the one for the nut on the end of the tube.
 
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Originally Posted By: Varmint Masterthe 13mm (1/2" in a pinch) is the nut to take the stock off. The 17mm is for the nut on the end of the tube.

Yep, I thought about that after I posted it, and I was editing my post while you were typing up the correction.
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Thanks!!
 
haha no problem. It helps that I did it no more than 12 hours ago
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A friend of mines was on so tight (he put it on way too tight and used way to much lock tite), that we actually took the reciver into the hardware store and found 2 nuts to fit the threads that go into the stock. We "double nutted" the bolt and it spun right off. This keeps the applied torque in the exact same plane as the threads.
 
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My M1 Super 90 was completely seized up several years ago from years and years of abuse. I end up clamping my receiver in a vise, and then I used a 3/4" impact wrench to break mine free. I don't reccomend this method, but it did work.
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