AR question (for those with Hogue carbine foregrips)

K

knockemdown

New member
Guys,

Curious to know where/how you attach your sling to the front of your AR with a Hogue carbine foregrip?

And if you tapped a sling stud directly into your Hogue foregrip, does it get in the way at all when handling/shooting?

Thanks!
 
I looked at my personal 6.8 and I mounted the stud quite close to the front-end of the tube. This allowed me to avoid the rubber over-mold, and give as much room for my hand as possible. The only down-side is that it is mounted close enough that using a bi-pod may be problematic.
 
Thanks for looking at yours, Mike!
This baby won't be riding a Harris when it's finished /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif so that's comforting news...
 
The Hogue forearm is rubber covered on the center section only. Both ends are bare and you can drill in in the center of the end, near the gas block. Attaching a bi pod shouldn't be problematic.

CLEANING119.jpg


CLEANING118.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics, Dan.

I already have two of the standard size Hogue OM foregrips on my .223 and 6x45 Dtech uppers and that is exactly where Mike installed the studs. Not problematic for a bipod at all.

My question was referring to the Hogue carbine foregrip, which has a much smaller area forward of the rubber section.
This is the one I was referring to:
carbinegrip.jpg

Space looks tight up there & I don't want my offhand getting hung up...
 
Dan is correct, there is plenty of room for the sling stud/bi-pod stud on a rifle-length tube. The carbine-length tube is built much differently than the rifle-length tube. The rubber over-mold on the carbine-length tube is within 1/2" of the end of the tube. On my own 6.8 SPC upper that is shown here, I opted to keep the stud as far forward as possible. This keeps the stud out of the way for off-hand shooting, but, for the most part, does not allow the use of a bi-pod.
hogue-1.jpg
 
I don't know what photo-bucket is doing to me, but I sized that photo to 640x480 twice, then down to 320, and still can't get it to re-size!
 
Your pic is 320. If you are seeing something larger that is because your computer is using the cached image that is stored on the comp instead of refreshing.
 
I see the smaller image now, but while I was trying to post it, it showed up as 800 x something. I refreshed the screen, I deleted it, renamed the file and re-posted, and it always showed up large.... Oh well, it looks like whatever was wrong, isn't any more!

Thanks Lance!
 
Why not just use the sling loop that is attached to the gas block front sight base? I have seen some car slings that loop aroung the rear leg of the front sight tower as well, or attach to a nylon loop around the forearm although it seems that would not be real secure.
 
BD,
I neglected to mention that I'm going with a 4 rail gas block in the build so there will be no FSB to work with. It looks like the stud shown in Mike's pic is how mine is gonna end up...
 
knockemdown
would something like this work for you?
stud.jpg

KNS Front Sling Swivel Mount Pin
Designed to fit any standard handguard. By reversing the nut, this swivel mount can be installed on the many types of floating handguards by simply drilling a hole. Great in competition when a steady hand is not available.

I seen it at Midwasyusa.com
Good luck
M /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
 
It wasn't so much "how" to attach a sling stud to the free-float tube, it was more a question of "where". Because of the rubber covering on most of the grip, mounting a sling stud, no matter what kind of stud it is, can be challenging. There is just very little area on the front of the tube that is not rubber-covered.

Someone mentioned the sling-loop on the gas-block. Hanging a sling on the barrel/gas-block after installing a free-float tube is like brushing your teeth with Coca-Cola. The whole idea back of the free-float tube is to isolate the barrel from any external forces.
 
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