AR15/AR10 Armorers block

scottmilk9

scottmilk9

New member
Here is my new armorers block for AR15's and AR10 type rifles.

Its made from billet aluminum, Type III hard anodized and laser engraved with our logo.

A couple advantages with these over the plastic(delrin)one is less flex, I've been using this new one that we made for several months now and I can really torque the upper without worrying if it will break. Also, if you need to heat up the upper due to lock-tite, it won't melt like the other one will.

Retail price is $59.99. I'm doing an introductory offer for PM members at $45 shipped. Offer expires Feb. 28th.

Email me for payment, I'll try to have it up on our web store soon as well. scott@specializeddynamics.com
 
Hey cool, I was just looking at buying one of those delrin ones... but this fits the bill much better! E-mail on it's way!
 
What is this? And what is it used for? I'm a newbie when it comes to this stuff.

I am looking to find a barrel vice to hold my barrel while I install a flash hider onto the end of the barrel.
 
Originally Posted By: Coyotehunter_What is this? And what is it used for? I'm a newbie when it comes to this stuff.

I am looking to find a barrel vice to hold my barrel while I install a flash hider onto the end of the barrel.

These pin into the attachment tabs on the upper. Then you can do maintenance, install/remove barrels and hardware. If your upper is complete, less the comp, this would help you out.
 
Mine arrived today. Looks and feels like a very quality piece. Definitely worth the money IMO. Thanks again Scott! p.s... had it arrived a few days earlier I could have modeled a fully automatic M16 on it, but alas we finished our field training and turned weapons back in on Friday, now back to mundane classroom work. BORRRRRING
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Originally Posted By: IhateyotesYour upper pins to it so you can clamp it in a vise it will do exactly what you are looking to do.

Cool Thanks
 
Dang! I just bought a black delrin one yesterday. Oh well I'm sure it will work fine for changing out butt stocks ect. Might up grade to one of these later if I get into building uppers Grizz
 
OK one more dumb question from this newbie. is there a way to just hold the barrel at the end in a vice without doing any damage to the barrel itself?

I understand that this device in this thread clamps onto the upper's receiver two pins. My question deals with the barrel where it's attached to the upper receiver. How tight (how much torque is used) to screw the barrel into the upper receiver? And which direction is the barrel screwed into the upper receiver. Will screwing the Flash Hider onto the threaded end of my barrel harm the gas tube or it's alignment and connection or the barrel's connection to the receiver using the device in this thread? I am thinking that this device just hold the receiver only. I guess if the barrel nut is tight enough the barrel won't twist in the receiver? So that installing the flash hider won't accidently unscrew the barrel from the receiver. I can't even see where the barrel connects to the receiver on my Ambush Firearms AR15 right now. And I've not figured out exactly how to take the barrel's tube off the receiver in order to see under it. After two glasses of red wine I'm having trouble remembering the name of the tube that covers my barrel. OK I looked it up and it's called a Ambush Firearms Modular Float Rail 12.0. I guess the 12 stands for twelve inches long. I can see that there are a bunch of screws of two different types that appear to attach the Modular Float Rail to the Upper Receiver. But I want to make sure that if I remove the Modular Float Rail that I can put it back on so that the upper rail is straight and inline with the top rail on my receiver. I would assume that if I put it back on and snug up all the screws that it will be straight afterwards but I'm not really sure if that will happen. I've never taken one apart before so that's why I'm asking for help on this.

I would think that applying torque to the very end of the barrel might unscrew the barrel from the receiver? If that makes sense to anyone but me? I'm guessing from the comments above that this won't be a problem? But I want to make sure that I don't screw anything up while torqueing the flash hider onto the end of my barrel. I'm just trying to be super careful and find a consensuses of opinions on this.
 
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The barrel is simply "pushed in" to the upper receiver, then a barrel nut is screwed over the barrel onto the upper receiver to keep the barrel held into place. No twisting of the barrel actually occurs.

A flash hider comes on/off all by itself, no relation to the gas tube.
 
Coyotehunter:

Here's a good video that should help you understand how the upper is built by Midway USA. If you're using a slick sided upper, or a flat topped one, there are some areas of the video you can skip over (forward assist install, Dust cover install, and rear sight install):

I prefer the clamshell upper receiver blocks. They are made of delrin and clamp around the entire upper receiver. I personally don't like the idea of putting torque on the takedown pin holes.

The barrel should be torqued onto the upper between 35-80 ft/lbs. My process it to torque it to 30 ft/lb, then loosen it. I do that 3 times, then tighten it until the notch in the barrel nut is lined up for the gas tube to slide in freely. If you find that it will take more than 80 ft/lbs, you may need to find a shim to go between the barrel nut and barrel extension.

I highly recommend that you don't affix the muzzle device with the upper receiver mounted on any kind of receiver holding block. It will put unnecessary stress on the indexing pin and barrel/extension junction. I suggest you use a barrel vise block. This clamps the barrel independently from the rest of the upper and will allow you to mount the muzzle devise without stressing the rest of the upper.
 
Thanks that is just exactly what I was thinking. I've seen some barrel vices online but they were the Wheeler Engineering type and I was having trouble with my internet connection at the time, so have the web pages didn't show up or were too slow to watch the video without a lot of lag. My wireless connection gets slow at times and I keep loosing my connection to my router.

I saw the upper receiver vice that clamps around the upper receiver and that's made out of hard plastic. Wheeler Engineering sells one that is used to install barrels. They have a device that fits into the receiver that has a gas tube thing that helps you align the gas tube with the barrel and barrel nut.

I'm going to watch some more videos on how to build the upper on AR15 to better understand what's going on there. I'm in no hurry to install the Flash Hider as I'm not hunting again until next fall. And I'm still not sure if I have the right flash hider for my needs. I may go with another type but am not sure what I'm going to do.

Ironically at the very end of the video when he's installing the flash hider he talks about putting the barrel in a vice but does not who the vice that he's using at the time. I would assume that it's the same vice used earlier that clamps the upper receiver into the vice?

The torque used to tighten the barrel nut was 35 ft lbs to 80 ft lbs. Got to get the gas key allinged with the holes in the barrel nut and get the proper torque on the barrel nut. He made that look easy in the video.
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And I've never heard of a roll pin starter punch. I guess I'll get me one of those someday.
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Thanks for the information and the post.
 
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I broke down and purchased a barrel clamp device from Brownells and it arrived at the house today. It has two parts that are clamped held together in a big vice. The two sides are made out of machined aluminum and have a channel running though them. Actually there are two different size channels. The channels are lined with a 1/4" thick hard plastic type material to protect the barrel when it's put in-between the two lines channels in the two halves and then clamped together around the barrel in a vise. I should be able to torque these two pieces of aluminum around my barrel and install the flash hider on the end of my barrel without doing any damage to the other components on the upper. Plus I'll have it for future work on my barrel.

Thanks for all the help give. It was greatly appreciated and very helpful.

Originally Posted By: Livn68Coyotehunter:

Here's a good video that should help you understand how the upper is built by Midway USA. If you're using a slick sided upper, or a flat topped one, there are some areas of the video you can skip over (forward assist install, Dust cover install, and rear sight install):

I prefer the clamshell upper receiver blocks. They are made of delrin and clamp around the entire upper receiver. I personally don't like the idea of putting torque on the takedown pin holes.

The barrel should be torqued onto the upper between 35-80 ft/lbs. My process it to torque it to 30 ft/lb, then loosen it. I do that 3 times, then tighten it until the notch in the barrel nut is lined up for the gas tube to slide in freely. If you find that it will take more than 80 ft/lbs, you may need to find a shim to go between the barrel nut and barrel extension.

I highly recommend that you don't affix the muzzle device with the upper receiver mounted on any kind of receiver holding block. It will put unnecessary stress on the indexing pin and barrel/extension junction. I suggest you use a barrel vise block. This clamps the barrel independently from the rest of the upper and will allow you to mount the muzzle devise without stressing the rest of the upper.
 
Thanks Hibs. That's exactly what I was wanting to know.

Originally Posted By: HibsThe barrel is simply "pushed in" to the upper receiver, then a barrel nut is screwed over the barrel onto the upper receiver to keep the barrel held into place. No twisting of the barrel actually occurs.

A flash hider comes on/off all by itself, no relation to the gas tube.
 
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