I and many others have been using this system since 1987 on p. dog towns, custom Stolle Panda's, Hall M's, custom 40x, custom Rem, Ruger, win, and Parker Hales.
Key thing to remember about running water down the bore:
a. steel would have to be 850* before water would warp the steel
b. a punch type of jag that is a tight fit with the patch, gets the water out of the barrel.
All that could be left is some moisture in the pores of the steel.
c. Gases that are thousands of degrees proceede the bullet down the bore, and any water vapor
is burned up.
d. clean the moisture out of your chamber, but if you use a good bore guide with an O ring, you
should not have any water in your chamber
e. three minutes is all it takes to cool the bore dead cold, you are back to shooting
f. patching the bore out gives you longer shooting strings as a lot of the carbon is removed
Bill Davis of Aberdine Proving grounds suggested that we use this method as this is what they used. We were trying to get Bill to go with us on a p. dog hunt. Bill said that this was the method they used on their guns.
My hunting partners all used custom and factory Chrome moly barrels. I have listened to the nonsense that this water down the bore causes rust in chrome moly barrels. Well, for idiots it just may do exactly that! Since you are pushing patches down the bore to dry out the bore, then your last cooling session of the day, push an oily patch down the bore. You are going to have to clean the barrel when you get back to the motel from the Day's shooting anyway.
Auto parts stores carry the nozzle that fits on top of an quart oil can to prevent spilage, it runs around $4 out the door. Wall Mart carries this part also.
This is the complete unit
a. your favorite soda pop bottle, 2 liters fit also
b. oil can spout
c. Sinclair bore guide
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Everything is a tight fit on the connections, so there is not dripping or spilage
4 to 6 oz of water is all that is needed to cool the barrel.
If you are scared of the water down the bore, then try mixing a solution of 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol. Douse a wash rag with the solution and rub over the barrel till the solution drips off the bottom of the barrel. When the solution evaporates, the heat goes with it. This method is slower, and you will have to oil your blued barrel when you get home or before you leave the range.
On p. dog towns, we poured this solution in the cracks of the fiberglass stocks around the SS barrel, barrel heat cooked off the solution. We never had any problems with our glued in actions coming apart from the stock. We got barrels so hot the fiberglass got hot, I figured that one day the action would pop loose from the stock but it never did.
Good luck