Bedding screw torque?

M

Michael J. McCasland

New member
This is driving me nuts. A few weeks ago I read an article written by Darrel Holland about the proper technique for torqueing bedding screws. I can not refind that article. In it he wrote that the proper torque for a bedding screw on a Remington should be between 40 and 50 something or others. Would that be foot pounds or inch pounds or something else. Anybody know what I'm talking about?

Michael
 
Found it again, this was taken without permission from Darrel Hollands web site. It was in an add for his Torque wrench.

"...................... It's a proven fact that proper torque has a direct effect on the accuracy of a firearm and providing uniform torque to receiver screws is absolutely essential to insuring an unstressed action that performs consistently. For example, a properly pillared system will require 45 - 50 in/lbs. for proper bedding. Always torque the front and rear screws the same and leave the center screw at 10 - 15 in/lbs. on 3-screw systems. ................"

Michael
 
Guys, I have a model 700 Police Sniper Special(PSS), looks like a Sendero, but Has a high$$$ stock and a "select" barrel, the stock has an aluminum bedding block. It has allen-head screws to hold it in. The website said to torque them in individual increments up to 65in/lbs. IT DOES AFFECT YOUR ACCURACY!!!!! it made mine go from 1 1/2" groups to cloverleaf groups.
 
I would think that the proper torque would vary with each individual rifle, but it does make sense to torque the screws exactly the same each time. Once the "proper" torque was found for your rifle, a good torque wrench would make the job easier wouldn't it? I have never used a torque wrench on a rifle, but I can see where it would be good idea alright.
 
I've known a few fairly serious 22lr shooters. one of their standard items in their kit was a little torque wrench. To protect the old wood stocks they would loosen the screws each time they put the rifle away and retorque before each shoot. Makes sence to me. Of course now with piller bedding and synthedic stocks there is a reduced need for such an exercise.

Michael
 
if anyone is interested, I saw a nice torque wrench for rifles, in the H.S. Precision catalog. It was pricey, but I'm sure it is worth it. That is the only place I've seen one for firearm use.
 
Neal Johnson carries the Anschutz torque wrench. It is the clicker type and seems quite repeatable.(It is the most popular one used by olympic shooters.) But it has a metric socket, so you have to braze the american size you are using to a metric hex for it. No big deal if you have brazing equipment. Could be a nuisance otherwise. It also is not cheap. Last price I saw was $70.

Jack
 
Michael for an inch pound torque wrench try a place that sells tools for working on lawnmowers. All mowers motors (Briggs and Stratton etc..) use inch pounds not foot pounds. An extension and an adapter gets your alan head screw. :eek: ...James L.
 
I found my torque wrench at a pawn shop, it is a pretty clean snap-on brand. I got the case, and the instruction manual for about $50-$60, if I remember correctly.
 
Assuming a typical bolt action, free floated barrel configuration, I'm convinced that a properly bedded rifle isn't the least bit finicky about torque - as long as it is "reasonable". Anything from 35-50 inch pounds ought to be fine. I've got plenty of rifles I can pull the stock off of, put it back on and not have the zero have changed. No wrench is needed. Just snug them up tight and no more.

I'm think that a rifle which displays significant response to varying torque - either POI or group size, is a rifle definitely in need of a good bedding job.

If dollars are a concern, I'd spend them on a proper bedding job before buying a wrench.

- DAA
 
I agree with DAA. I have taken a match rifle apart, put it back together without measuring any torque and it would still be dead on at 1000 yards.

You get 2 sighter shots, but it sure is a confidence builder to have both of them be Xs.

Jack
 
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