Best AR lower for a future varmint rifle

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dimecovers3

New member
I want a 20 caliber upper for predators and varmints, but for now, I'd be happy to get the lower. I know the upper is where most of the accuracy comes from (besides a good trigger), but I want to start with a good foundation. I've heard a forged lower is better, but heavier I assume ( a concern for a walking/calling rig), but I really want to start right. Anybody have any suggestions and why? So far I'm thinking DPMS --does that seem sound? Also if you suggest one, it might help if you can point me where one is available now and what's a fair price these days.

Thanks
 
There are a lot of people here who are a lot more qualified to answer this than me, but I think it doesn't really matter a whole lot as long as you get a good forged lower. Price will all be probably within $50. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. You are going to spend over a grand on your whole weapon, get the best stripped lower you can. I would probably choose a Rock River Arms or Oly. I would also invest in a GOOD trigger. I have a Jewell and love it! Good luck, enjoy your new toy!!!
 
You should buy a matched upper and lower so that when you get your upper built, you can send the matched upper receiver to who ever you get to do the upper. That way it will be tight and not rattle like some. Essential Arms has the best price for the matched pair and they are forged and you won't be paying for the name. They are all milspec and most people don't even make them themselves anyway.

Jimmy
 
Bushy seem to have the best re-sale value...but are pretty scarse. Probably RRA next followed by Oly, DPMS and the rest following.

I've built on Bushy, RRA, Oly, DPMS, Stag, Double Star and a few others with little to no appreciable difference in function, just overall retail cost and re-sale differs by the name rolled into the reciever.

You will have to search hard to find a cast reciever...kinda a thing of the past.

Some will argue that the tightest tolerances will be machined billet recievers, but these could possibly be weaker due to the heavy required machining processes.

I've heard good results from Essential Arms out of LA and their forged recievers are easily under $100 w/ shipping.
 
I think you should save money on the lower and put that into trigger upgrades and other goodies, I put together a rifle with a superior arms lower that I bought for $180 complete with stock etc, to a DPMS upper and the fit is better than the bushy complete rifles I have seen in stores and as good as you can get really. keep in mind many of the lowers are made by one company so just because it says RRA on it does not mean its any better than say a stag arms lower,
 
As long as it is a forged receiver, don't think you will have a problem. Most all of AR parts are produced by several companies for everyone else in spite of what is said. Machining makes the difference as to quality control.
 
Then after you get your stripped lower, go here for the rest. www.jtdistributing.com
They have kits to complete the rifle starting at $469.95. You can pay more depending on what you want in your rig. Putting together the lower is a lot simpler than I thought it would be.
cb

COMPLETE 16” CAR Kit
16 Heavy Match 1x9 twist barrel attached to Mil-spec upper, and CAR length hand guards. The CAR kit comes with your choice of A-2 or standard flat-top upper, lower parts kit, and your choice of A-2 Buttstock or CAR stock. Available with HBAR or LW contour barrel.
16” CAR Kit..........$469.95
 
I place function above all else when buyng AR parts, with finish placing further down my list of important factors.

My current builds are on older Bushmasters, and Oly's. Very small problems with the Oly's, (more of an aggravation really) and no problems with the Bushmasters. But as I said, these are older lowers, so not sure how they stack up against new production, though I would suspect very little difference, if any.

I recently placed an order for several lowers because they were inexpensive. This brand has been selling well due to their cost I assume, and you see their name mentioned frequently on firearms boards. I got these just to "put away for a rainy day". Even though I don't put much emphasis on finish, I will say these lowers look and feel terrible. They look and feel like they are finished with 400 grit black wet or dry sandpapaer wrapped around them. The only reason this could be important is I can't help but wonder about their function, with the finish being this poor. And in my case this is something I may not know for months, or even years given my intended reason for purchasing.

Someone whom I greatly respect, and is a significant player in the firearms industry tells me that DPMS is a very good lower that doesn't get the respect they deserve. Unfortunately this conversation didn't come up till I had already received my 400 grit lowers. If I had it to do over again, I would spend the extra and get the DPMS.

Since this sounds like your first build, I think you would be happier in the long run if you spent the small amount of extra money, and got a lower made by one of the major players in the business.

As far as availability, if you order directly from the manufacturer, from what I read on the boards I expect you will be waiting for a few weeks. Dealers, on the other hand, may have what you want in stock, and probably at a lesser cost too. I order all my AR pieces and parts from dealers, because when I find an exceptional one, I enjoy building a relationship with them.

Good luck with your build, and please post pics.
As usual YMMV.
 
"They look and feel like they are finished with 400 grit black wet or dry sandpapaer wrapped around them."

I would agree the exterior finish is more of an issue than the machining accuracy with the available receivers. They go from great to what happened to that thing.

The first time builder really don't know what to look for, so they ask on open forums like this one and get a variety of answers, some of which are from left field. One example is the recommendations for EA lowers. They are not black and will not color match a upper from anybody, other than EA.

I have always said use a matched set to build a rifle, whether its a match grade set or just a set of receivers from the same manufacturer. I know they all fit together, but I'd rather have a rifle I'm was proud of, instead of a cobbled together bunch of parts.

Taking into account the resale value of high quality rifles, and the actual cost savings of using cheap parts. I'll go with RRA every time. Try to buy a used RRA and you will see what I'm talking about. Try selling a parts rifle and you'll also see what I'm talking about.
 
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