Best handheld neck turner?

SDCoyoteCaller

SDCoyoteCaller

Active member
I have been thinking about getting a handheld neck turner, but would like your guy's opinion on which one is the best and most accurate to use. Ease of adjustment is also important. I am looking for one in the 50-75 dollar range. Of course, if there is a really good one that is cheaper I am all ears. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-006.gif I have looked at ones from Sinclair, Forster, Hornady, and RCBS, but just don't know which way to go. Let me hear your opinions guys.

I currently turn necks with the RCBS auto neck turner that attaches to my trimmer. It works fine, but is kind of a pain in the butt to always change out when I want to turn necks. Call me lazy...I know.

Thanks for the help.
 
I have boyh the K&M, and Sinclair. The K&M is a little bit more user friendly. Make sure you get the expander mandril to fit your brand of turner. Also if you want to get the best turner made bar none look into a Don Nelson one. But be warned they are over $200.
 
K&M also has an option to attach a dial indicator to there neck turner.It will show how much the wall thickness is out when you first put a case on the arbor.
 
I have the Forster and am pretty happy with it. The handle that comes on the case holder is pretty cheezy. I changed it ou and it is much better. I have turned hundreds of case necks with it. I like it much better than setting up my case trimmer.
 
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For the money K&M is hard to beat. Easy to make fine adjustments and with the pilot jack it's easy to adjust to the shoulder.



Thanks for all the recommendations guys. I am looking hard at the K & M tool.

What is the advantage of the carbide pilot over the steel pilot? Less heat build up?

Race4hills,

Can you explain what the pilot jack is in a little more detail please? Thanks.
 
SD,,, Good Choice.

The carbide pilot has cutting flutes on the end that remove the (do-nut)or build up of brass at the neck/shoulder junction inside the case. The standard pilot just supports the neck while the cutter removes material from the outside.

The pilot jack isn't necessary but does make adjusting the pilot more preciece. Basically the pilot adjustment determins how far up the case you remove material.

The Pilot Jack is only twelve bucks and worth it IMO.

I can't really say if the carbide Pilot makes much difference, but I bought one just because I figured that if I was going to the expence and extra work to neck turn I wanted to get as much benefit from it as I could.
I'm also using it on cases that I'm necking down from 6mm to .224 and have read that the "Do-Nut" can occur when doing so. Maybe it does,,, maybe it doesn't,,, I definatly see the do-nut on the outside of the case and remove it with the cutter, but I can't see inside the case so I'm not sure what's going on in there. I do se a few brass shavings coming out of the cases, but not much.. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me (which is pretty much everyone) will chime in on this one. I'd be interested in hearing some opinions too.

www.PrecisionReloading.com is where I got mine. I'm sure if you call them they can explain things alot better than I can.

Good Luck
 
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