Bore Cleaner for AR-15

wre

New member
Was going to clean bore on bushmaster. I've ran probably 500 rounds through used the bore snake a couple times. I picked up some Gunslick foaming bore cleaner has anyone used this. Then I noticed it said use on recoil operated auto's but not for gas operated.
This gun has always been a tack driver shooting 60 gr v-max Blackhills ammo. I've been having trouble keeping really tight groups lately. Any advise or thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
 
You might have a long cleaning job in front of you, because I GUARANTEE you have very fouled bore, that is why the accuracy has went south. I would get some Butch's Bore Shine and start pushing wet patches and dry patches through it. Letting it soak between 10 to 15 minutes between wet and dry patch cycles. After several cycles of that I would soak the bore with Butch's and let it set for about 30 minutes and take a good bronze brush soaked in Butch's and stroke run it through the bore for 15 or 20 complete passes and let it soak some more. Then start the wet patch dry patch routine until you get a clean patch. You may have to go back to the bronze bore brush a few more times to get it all out.

Do your bore a favor and use a one piece coated rod and a bore guide.

Hope this helps some.

PaPa 260
 
i clean my AR's after every 5 rounds. now that is not when i get home from hunting, but it could be a couple of weeks before i hit 5 rounds. then i use a bore snake with rem oil only and a bore brush with the same. use rem oil as a cleaner for the bolt group assembly also. After shooting AR's for 21 years in the Army this is what works best for me. back in the way back days we used to clean them with soap and the hottest water you could find. works great actually. nowadays i'm a little lazier but my 5 round rule works for me without any sacrifice in accuracy. i would never think of putting any type of "chemical" in any of my guns to include the bore shine. sorry PaPa, my .02. Dawn and hot water before a chemical that could react with the metal. kinda like the "barrel break in" myth/LIE, harsh chemicals will eat a barrel up, trust me i know. thanx
 
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What PaPa said +1. You need to send that rifle to me and let me keep her clean for you.
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Roadkill, you are right, very hot water and dawn does a great job. Been there did that. If you use hot enough water so the barrel actually gets hot the water dries very quick. Follow that with an oily patch and you are good to go. But with the Butch's Bore Shine or Shooters Choice, while they are chemicals, I have never had them harm a bore even with long repeat soakings. I don't care if I shoot a rifle one time when hunting, or 88 times in the course of a service rifle match, or long range prone match, that bore gets cleaned and the rifle squared away before I eat that evening. My dad (military) taught me that many years ago, and I never forgot it. There are bore cleaners I won't put down my bore, Sweets and Montana Extreme come to mind quickly. Those are HARSH! Tells you right on the bottle to not leave them in the bore for over 10 minutes.

Mike, that is EXACTLY what I was thinking, send it to me and let me clean it. I can't imagine having a rifle that I think any thing of go for 500 rounds with out cleaning with more than a bore snake a couple of times. I'm serious send it to me I will clean it. It will be a LONG cleaning job that is for sure.

PaPa 260
 
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The WipeOut with Accelerator is the best I have seen for copper fouling.
About anything will clean out the carbon. Walmart brake cleaner in the spray
can is my go to for carbon. Glad to see you shooting the barrel out instead of
scrubbing it to death. Watch the bore snakes on your crown. Pull it dead straight out the end of the bore.
 
Love shooting the AR platform but they "s**t where they eat" and must be thoroughly cleaned frequently. I clean after each time it's shot whether it is 2 rounds or 200 rounds. If it's heavily fouled I go with bore shine if it's only been fired a few times I just use hoppe's solvent. I have found that a light coating of Mobil 1 5w30 motor oil in the upper and BCG keeps the carbon residue from sticking so badly.
 
Have any of you guys use Break Free CLP on your AR's? A buddy of mine swears by it, says it's a great cleaner and lubricant. Just curious about your thoughts or experiences.

VMax55
 
I used Breakfree until I tried Weapons Shield CLP. Once I saw how much of an improvement it was, I haven't used the Breakfree since.

But yeah, if you have it already, it works pretty well.
 
For the barrel....I use Bore Tech Eliminator. Use to use Butch's Bore Shine.
For the bolt.....I use mineral spirits with a couple of cap fulls of Break Free CLP.
 

This is what I use:

K12 to remove copper, carb cleaner to remove the carbon out of the upper receiver and off the BCG, lube with Moble 1.

I clean as needed, only use copper remover when the accuracy starts to drop off.
 
Its impossible for anything to CLP(clean, lube and protect)

I use M-pro 7 bore paste for the bore and their cleaner for bolt and other parts. Its biodegradable and doesn't stink like good ol hoppes
 
scottmilk9 said:
Its impossible for anything to CLP(clean, lube and protect)



Motor oil does all 3 every day in your car's engine.

I use Break Free CLP and a bore snake. My R15 shoots consistent 3/4 inch groups at 100yds. I'll run the bore snake and CLP through it about 3 times. The bore looks great after the first one. The second two passes are just for the OCD part of me.
 
I've never heard of soap and water except for cleaning black powder, but suppose if you lube it well afterwards. Motor oil will clean but it's really made for closed filtered systems and will attract more dirt than lubes and cleaner made for weapons. I personally just use Breakfree CLP and it does a good job if used regularly like others have mentioned. Even if it's overdue for cleaning it will clean it, it just may take a few extra passes and elbow grease. I've heard mixed results of some bore cleaners. Some can be pretty harsh. I'm sure they can make the job easier and quicker, but I'm of the opinion that if it eats carbon quickly & easy it can't be great for your metal especially after multiple uses. There are simpler ways to do most anything (and I'm sure they make a product for every task that promises to do so) but they sure aren't always the best way.
 
Originally Posted By: wre I picked up some Gunslick foaming bore cleaner has anyone used this. Then I noticed it said use on recoil operated auto's but not for gas operated.


confused.gif


Why not??
 
Originally Posted By: dmwil
scottmilk9 said:
Its impossible for anything to CLP(clean, lube and protect)



Motor oil does all 3 every day in your car's engine.



I don't think it cleans, but I'm no mechanic. I do work on guns every day though and never seen an oil clean carbon or other debris.
 
Most motor oils 'detergent' properties are only active at the engine's normal operating temperature....

If you have ever owned a motorcycle and inspected the oil after it has set idle for any length of time, you will find that the oil tends to collect the moisture from the air and can actually corrode the metal surfaces.... That's why most owners manuals will suggest changing the oil every spring and fall, even if it isn't ridden...and they will also suggest periodically starting the engine and bringing it to operating temperature during those same periods..
 
Hoppes #9 run a few wet patches let it soak 10 min, run a dry, run a soaked brass bore brush 10X, then run a wet patch, run some dry patches until you patch out clean, get out your nylon bore brush dip her in some sweets 7.62 run it 10X let her sit for 10min dry patch out (repeat) until clean, make sure after you use sweets and patch out dry you follow with a oil such as hoppes or tetra. Note: never mix sweets and shooters choice (NOT GOOD) inside you barrel, always patch out dry befor using a different cleaning agent.
 
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