Bore Cleaner for AR-15

Originally Posted By: skinneyHoppes #9 run a few wet patches let it soak 10 min, run a dry, run a soaked brass bore brush 10X, then run a wet patch, run some dry patches until you patch out clean, get out your nylon bore brush dip her in some sweets 7.62 run it 10X let her sit for 10min dry patch out (repeat) until clean, make sure after you use sweets and patch out dry you follow with a oil such as hoppes or tetra. Note: never mix sweets and shooters choice (NOT GOOD) inside you barrel, always patch out dry befor using a different cleaning agent.

I've used this method for years with very good results. It may not be the quickest, but it works for me. I used this method to clean a BADLY fouled 220Swift I purchased at an estate sale. I know it works, because a buddy scoped the bore after cleaning and confirmed. It took several evenings and pushed an incredible amount of carbon and copper out of that tube. Call me sick, but I actually like the smell of Hoppes and Sweet's.
 
Just shot a 2.65" 5 shot group at 300 yds. out of a dirty 120+ rds. AR. Will I clean it? Maybe just pop the bolt out and clean it up with simple green and hot water re oil and go on. My gun won't start grouping tight until 5-10 rds. My wildcat guns get cleaned every 20-40 rds but they have alot more powder being burnt than a .223.. You clean freeks can flame on.
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500 rds will take a good 20+ or so strokes with a wet bronze brush followed by alternating wet dry patches until clean. I'm old school and still use shooters choice solvent, bore guide and a good stainless one piece cleaning rod.
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RR

Every 5 shots
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more than likely wear the bore out cleaning it but to each there own!!
 
Originally Posted By: Roadrunner Just shot a 2.65" 5 shot group at 300 yds. out of a dirty 120+ rds. AR. Will I clean it? Maybe just pop the bolt out and clean it up with simple green and hot water re oil and go on. My gun won't start grouping tight until 5-10 rds. My wildcat guns get cleaned every 20-40 rds but they have alot more powder being burnt than a .223.. You clean freeks can flame on.
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500 rds will take a good 20+ or so strokes with a wet bronze brush followed by alternating wet dry patches until clean. I'm old school and still use shooters choice solvent, bore guide and a good stainless one piece cleaning rod.
thumbup.gif
RR

Every 5 shots
lol.gif
more than likely wear the bore out cleaning it but to each there own!!

i agree with you on the high round count, but you know as well as i every rifle is different, I took the time to break in every one of my rifle barrels, Armalite super sass, Knights SR-25, Dpms Sass, and mini sass to name a few, seems like after torchin about 400 pills down the tube i need a cleaning, until then just clean the bolt and upper of burnt powder/carbon/dirt.
 
Originally Posted By: stormking Call me sick, but I actually like the smell of Hoppes and Sweet's.
+1 on the hoppes reminds me of breakin in barrels on those early summer mornings, the sweets... burns my nose to much.
 
I use the foaming bore cleaner on my AR and never ran into any problems. Before the foaming bore cleaner I run a patch soaked with GM TEC (top engine cleaner) for the carbon. Then bore cleaner as directed, at the end of 30 minutes I hit the gas tube with brake cleaner to clear out any residue from the foam. Then run patch. run foaming bore cleaner until patch is clean, usally two to three treatments. Break Free CLP on all other moving parts.
 
Originally Posted By: stormkingOriginally Posted By: skinneyHoppes #9 run a few wet patches let it soak 10 min, run a dry, run a soaked brass bore brush 10X, then run a wet patch, run some dry patches until you patch out clean, get out your nylon bore brush dip her in some sweets 7.62 run it 10X let her sit for 10min dry patch out (repeat) until clean, make sure after you use sweets and patch out dry you follow with a oil such as hoppes or tetra. Note: never mix sweets and shooters choice (NOT GOOD) inside you barrel, always patch out dry befor using a different cleaning agent.

I've used this method for years with very good results. It may not be the quickest, but it works for me. I used this method to clean a BADLY fouled 220Swift I purchased at an estate sale. I know it works, because a buddy scoped the bore after cleaning and confirmed. It took several evenings and pushed an incredible amount of carbon and copper out of that tube. Call me sick, but I actually like the smell of Hoppes and Sweet's.

+1 - this is the process I use on all my guns. Good point about running patches until dry before switching to another solvent. Also neat to hear the sweets proven by using a bore scope. That is some good stuff, not sure about liking the smell, but an excellent product
 
Originally Posted By: im4flightHow many of you are using the bore guides? Is it worth it?
Just if you don't want to loose a little accuracy.

Jack
 
I use the foam, then check it with sweets for copper. I can't believe someone asked if bore guides are important. Second time this week, Grizz.
 
Quote:I use the foam, then check it with sweets for copper.

Grizz

Do you get any copper after the foam? I use Wipe-out and a soak, then just patch it a couple times.
Last time I tried Sweets afterwards, I didn't see any green and quit using it.
I'm just wondering.

And yeah, a bore guide is important. It's a $15 investment to protect a $350 barrel. Better deal than buying car insurance.
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Slip2000 Carbon Killer, Bore Tech Eliminator, and then a little Hoppe's Elite at the end. I also use a bore guide.
 
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Originally Posted By: Evil_Lurker Quote:I use the foam, then check it with sweets for copper.

Grizz

Do you get any copper after the foam? I use Wipe-out and a soak, then just patch it a couple times.
Last time I tried Sweets afterwards, I didn't see any green and quit using it.
I'm just wondering.

And yeah, a bore guide is important. It's a $15 investment to protect a $350 barrel. Better deal than buying car insurance.
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Not often, the foam works pretty good, Grizz.
 
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