Brass annealing service.

kam582

New member
I'm curious if anybody ever sends their high end brass out for annealing? I've got about 400 pieces of Lapua 22-250 that I'd like to get as much use out of as possible. LC .223 is cheap enough, right now anyhow,that I'm not going to worry about that. My 400 pieces of the Lapua don't really justify a $500 annealing machine. I know I could do the torch, socket and drill thing, but with no experience, it makes me a little nervous. Any suggestions?
 
Just practice on some of your lake city brass, you only have a couple hours of 250 brass. With my torch 10-12 seconds will get dull red necks. LC brass a count or 2 less. Have your first batch shiny clean, will help seeing the color change.
 
I have had good results using a propane torch with the brass mounted in a socket/cordless drill. Annealing really isn't much more difficult than many other processes in reloading.
 
I would practice on the LC brass also.

You will have the process town with 10 pieces. I dont use a drill or a socket, just hold the head of the case with a pliers or a Lee trimming tool thing. If you hold the neck in the hottest part of the flame it will heat up fast enough(about 6 seconds for my 260)that the heat wont work its way down to the case head.
 
Send it out to a reputable service.
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I couldn't imagine sending my brass out and paying someone else to anneal it any more than sending it out and paying someone to tumble it.

It's pretty easy to do it yourself.
 
Thanks for the replies, you guys have talked me into giving it a shot. Do I really need to use tempilaq, or can I go by color?
 
Just get good at color, I've never used tempilaq. Tempilaq is really only useful for getting a set time for a machine.

I stick the top of the neck into the tip or the bluest flame coming from the torch. Rotating the case isn't a big deal, I twist mine back and forth a little but you don't need the type of rotation like if you had it in a drill.
 
Never used tempilaq. Use a socket that fits the case. Set your cordless drill to low speed, it takes about 6 seconds on 223 or 22-250 cases. In a dark or dim room it's easy to see when the neck just barely starts to turn dull red. Drop the hot cases onto a sheet of tin foil with a towel under it. Lean your drill against the edge of the workbench or something else to hold it steady if you want.
 
Tempilaq is a PITA to remove afterward. Used it a couple times many moons ago. Went back to not using it after those couple times. Just a PITA.

- DAA
 
OK, so why not do the old tip the brass over into a pan of water once the color has been reached or just standing the brass in the water up to the midline of the brass?
 
Water isn't necessary and it is much easier and controllable to hold the brass to the flame instead of holding the flame to the brass.

I just torch my brass and drop it into my dry stainless steel kitchen sink.
 
I would just send it to DJs Brass Service. I’m sure there are some human machines out there that can do it properly, but most can’t.

I have a Bench Source, and it’s well worth the money.

But in all honesty... I can’t see how one could get the best consistency doing it with the old torch and socket. The water and pan method is probably the least favorable.

I’ve done thousands and thousands of pieces, and I’m strongly recommending leaving it to practiced hands. Testing on another variety of brass is almost a waste of time since it won’t be the same alloy.
 
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Originally Posted By: CZ527I would just send it to DJs Brass Service. I’m sure there are some human machines out there that can do it properly, but most can’t.

I have a Bench Source, and it’s well worth the money.

But in all honesty... I can’t see how one could get the best consistency doing it with the old torch and socket. The water and pan method is probably the least favorable.

I’ve done thousands and thousands of pieces, and I’m strongly recommending leaving it to practiced hands. Testing on another variety of brass is almost a waste of time since it won’t be the same alloy.


Good info there.
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How can one know if it has been done properly or not?

I usually only anneal when I have to, as part of a case forming operation. Once die and fire formed, I don't often have any reason to anneal working brass. The exception, is long lived brass that gets hard to size after a couple dozen loadings. But most of my working brass for most of my rifles gives up the ghost to loose primer pockets long before it reaches that point. And none of my rifles are accurate enough to show any improvement from annealing. So, I don't.

But, when I do anneal working brass, how do I know if I'm doing it properly? How would one know their machine is actually doing it property? How would one know someone else you paid to do it had done it properly?

- DAA
 
Dave, no human being can hold the same tolerance as a machine that times down into small fractions of a second for hours on end. There are professional ball players that make hundreds to thousands of dollars PER PITCH that can’t even throw 3 fastballs in a row the same speed.

Toward the end there, I find it very surprising that you don’t own a rifle capable of showing you the difference in uniform neck tension. The ones I’ve seen sure look like shooters.

As for my machine and the skills of Darrell Jones, brass that delivers the same accuracy and velocity for 20+ firings without failure is more than convincing enough for me.

All in good fun, of course.
 
On the consistent neck tension, yes, absolutely, I think it matters quite a lot. But with my loading practices - tight neck chambers, neck turned brass, bushings and never an expander, maintaining seems to be automatic. My necks have just a little over .001 total clearance in their chambers and get sized only about .002 after firing. And not the whole neck, either. I always leave some of it unsized. Depending on how deep the bullets are actually being seated, as much as half of it unsized. And never use an expander. The necks just don't get worked much at all.

I did do some experimentation years ago, with my most accurate rifle. It showed no improvement with annealing. All my less accurate "varmint" rifles (which are all custom barrels and tight necks), have the same neck clearances and sizing done to them. So, either the neck tension uniformity is not improved measurably by annealing for them, or, that improvement is not enough to show up in accuracy. For my rifles. And the way I load them. YMMV!

The thing I often hear is avoiding split necks. But I never have split necks. Ever. Indeed, when I do anneal very well used brass, it's because the shoulders have become difficult to bump and to need it more frequently.

And no, I don't believe anyone can match the consistency and precision of a machine, either.

But, what are the tolerances? I don't know. But I'm not sure that the acceptable tolerances for a "proper" annealing aren't within the capability of a reasonably careful human operator? People have been doing it for a very, very long time before these machines became available.

I do know, you can get them too hot, obviously. I don't go for any glow of red at all, myself. I think if you can see it glowing, it's too hot already or close to it. The brief use of Tempilaq made that clear. I go by shoulder discoloration. Which might take a few seconds or more to happen, but when it does happen it's all at once and at that point I remove it from the heat. They end up looking as consistent in that discoloration as new Lapua does. As mentioned earlier, I did experiment with Tempilaq, but found it turned at the precise moment the shoulder discoloration occurred. And it was a PITA to get off. And the shoulder discoloration was actually easier to see and more of an abrupt signal.

Eyeballing it like that is plenty good enough for my only occasional need.

No issues with using a machine, or even paying someone else to use one though. If I had a machine given to me, I'd use it.

I just question how precise the operation actually needs to be? And whether a plain old human can't really perform it within the acceptable range of temperature and time. I really don't know. But, like I said, I'm satisfied with the results I get.

- DAA
 
if your cases can handle enough loadings to need that your not using enough powder
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neck turning new brass might be better. good lord please not another reloading gadget, I have too many already.
 
I anneal because I love the way annealed cases FEEL when I size and seat them. It's buttery smooooth and very consistant case to case. That's all.
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DD nailed it there. its so nice to resize annealed brass, i love the consistency of the feel of how they seat too. not one here and there going in tighter due to springback changing the tension on me, etc.

ive got the annealeeze product, nice for a basic unit. no bells and whistles, but it sure is consistent!
 
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