Breaking in a new Micro Howler...

LONEHOWL

Custom Call Maker
...and cant get the reed/toneboard right where I want it. This one aint letting me do barks etc the way I like so probly make another.



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Truthfully, I think I know what you’re saying. To me the barks seem slightly higher pitched and slightly less raspy than my Micro. Would that be correct? I won’t say it sounds bad, but it’s not exactly how mine sounds.

To get deeper and more rasp, what does it take? Is it the reed shape vs channel or how much the reed dips into the channel? The curve of the toneboard? The tone channel itself?

I find this very interesting and feel it probably a combination of all of it. You are getting sounds from that call that I hope to develop myself. If you don’t mind sharing, that wavering high, low sound… Is that reed pressure manipulation or breath/diaphragm control?
 
Being hand made every one is different and has its own personality. These are the only calls I make nowdays with a completely hand made toneboard everytime...and its a bitch sometimes. I do it old school. No jig or anything...just using my "eyecrometer".

Toneboard length, air channel width, toneboard height, curvature and reed shape all affect how it plays. These howlers are not meant for big deep howls...but to do a few of the most usefull things. ...high to medium pitch howls, pup talk, some barks and ki yis...those are what are important to me in a howler. ..and a howler..either open reed or diaphragm...is a must have for me....they are that useful. On this one, I didn't have the board slope how it needed to be...I took off to much and it wasnt how I like it but it was ok really. A deeper pitched howler can have a wider air channel and/or a longer or bigger ID barrel. Some of that causes its own problems.
Some of them I do "detune' the reed a bit..depending on how the toneboard came out..putting the tip of the reed just short of the end of the air channel sort of like a goose call looks..kind of counter intuitive to how an open reed is usually tuned..but some of them are more responsive or less sensitive that way . It works for me anyways.

The rasp for barks and front end of raspy howls and ki yis etc is done by quickly covering the relief hole partially with your bottom lip...not blocking it off completely but just brushing across it real fast...or even just getting close to it.. It creates the instant backpressure to get the rasp. Hard to explain and not intuitive to most people maybe..but once you get used to it it will be second nature.
The wavering is a matter of air control really and moving just slightly up or down the reed. I dont do big sliding howls...these toneboards are short on purpose...1) so you can reach the relief hole easily and 2) so you dont have to go far either way on the reed to do stuff. To long a toneboard and things get useless and more difficult imo....like locking down etc. Also the angle you hold it makes a difference as well.
More on the rasp/relief hole thing...you can accomplish the same thing essentially by putting a hole somewhere in the call barrel, toneboard wedge or somewhere else to relieve backpressure..but those arent as quick to use as how I have it. Again, for me.
Sorry for the rambling : )

EDIT: Maybe I misunderstood? Wavering...the quick wavering on the tailend of some of the howls is me just bouncing my top teeth or lip onto the reed.
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Thanks for rambling, Mark. I’m constantly trying to figure out how to get these subtle differences in sounds. It probably doesn’t matter in the slightest to the coyotes I’m calling to, but it’s fun trying.

That hole you put in the toneboard is probably my favorite thing about my call. When I asked about it and you explained it and how to use it, things got pretty interesting. For me anyways! That difference in rasp is very pronounced when purposely using it. It isn’t difficult to do once you understand what it’s used for.

I have found the closest I can getvto that sound on my other howlers is to actually let a little air escape around the toneboard at the beginning of note and quickly closing it off. It works for me, but it’s a lot more difficult to control consistently for me.

Thanks again for your ramblings, man! I kind of geek out on this stuff and appreciate it when you guys, you artisans really, take the time to explain the how’s and why’s.
 
I don't do a lot of hand calls, mainly lack of confidence. I read what Lonehowl is saying and realize I won't learn or get better until I actually put the calls to use. Oklahoma coyotes , New York coyotes or Idaho coyotes won't know the difference in the sounds I make compared to a young or old real coyote. Thanks for the tutorial!
 
I don't do a lot of hand calls, mainly lack of confidence. I read what Lonehowl is saying and realize I won't learn or get better until I actually put the calls to use. Oklahoma coyotes , New York coyotes or Idaho coyotes won't know the difference in the sounds I make compared to a young or old real coyote. Thanks for the tutorial!
Well for what it’s worth coming from me. I’m better than I used to be, and you do need to spend the time learning to make sounds consistently. But some food for thought… Early on I was the king of sour notes, and on occasion I would still get responses. Now I’ve never witnessed a pack of coyotes running after an ambulance or police car either, but I sure have heard a bunch announce their presence to them.

If you’re calling with your e-caller and nothing is happening, what do you have to lose? You’re more than likely out there by yourself anyway so let it rip like nobody is listening! You may find yourself surprised at what might happen!
 
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