broadheads shooting to right

COYKILL

COYKILL

New member
I have a Mathews Z7 Extreme and it is sighted in with my 125 grain field points. When I shoot my 125 Gr Razorback broadheads it is shooting to the right about 2 -2.5 inches. I tried a 150 grain broadhead and that shot about 5-6 inches to the right. I was told my 5575 arrows where to soft and I need stiffer arrows. Is this true?
 
not sure about your arrow stiffness, shouldn't matter if your field points and your broad heads are the same weight, I run the hoyt alphamax @ 87 lbs, and the broadheads fly different than my field points as well... my advice, get another pack of the broadheads your going to use, and use one or two for practice, then you know how your arrows going to fly, it sucks only being able to shoot 2 arrows (broadheads for practice) and know the exact flight pattern but thats how i practice and got my elk and deer last year @ 50yds.
 
Shooting to the right, you might check you knocking point, the main thing is I bet you bow isn't tuned. 9 out of 10 bows my clients bring to camp, have not been tuned. This is not the characterics of a well tuned bow. Have the bow tuned and knock point checked and I bet you'll be on the money.

Tony Dukes
150 big game bow kills
 
i bet you need it tuned! i had the exact same problem a year ago! i had my bow tuned and used [beeep] razor welded broad heads and they fly almost IDENTICAL to field points of the 125gr flavor.
 
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I did have the bow looked at by the same guy I got the 150 gr broadhead from as he owns a shop. He upped the poundage to 62 lbs. and adjusted somrthing else on it. He did the same thing with another guy as far as the arrow stiffness and that guy has never shot better. He said broadheads affect arrow flight more than the same weight field tip. I am going to shoot his different length stiffer arrows tommarrow night or Tues. and see if it makes a difference.
 
Proper arrow spine, and rest position. Try paper tuning the arrow. It should punch a clean round hole, and not a tear shaped or tear. I have to pull out my old bow tech books, but I remember something about to stiff of arrows would hit high right, and not stiff enough would hit low left. Or visa versa. My guess would be it's the spine
 
The shape of the hole depends on how far away the paper is too. If you ever watch a slow motion film of an arrow in flight, the arrow flexes from one side to the other for finger shooters and up and down for release shooters.I don't put much faith in paper tuning. Some do. I usually tune to my broadheads. When the broadhead and the practice tips hit the same spot I'm there.

Obviously increasing poundage or decreasing it affect spine, same as arrow length and broadhead weight.
 
I had some Wasp 4 blade broad head years ago that never flew consistent. My 2 blades shoot like field points. But then again i shoot traditional equipment and have since the early 90's. Less complicated in a lot of ways.
 
Having suffered a similar situation with my slick tricks, I spoke with a few "experts" that gave me a variety of things to check.
I did the following, in order, to get identical flight from my broadheads and field points:
1) full inspection of bow operation, cam timing, string twist, axles, etc., to be fully sure everything was working properly.
2) paper tuning- took a while, but I got my rig shooting bullet holes with bare shafts at 20 yds.
3) arrow tuning- ensured the nocks, inserts, shafts, points, and vanes were all perfectly concentric. Weighed each arrow bare and built to get the ultimate in consistency, and be dead sure each was as identical as I could possibly make it.
I tested my broadheads for concentricity too. Two of 8 were off slightly. They got tossed.
It takes a lot of time and effort to get a rig dialed in perfectly, but once its done, it helps a lot in discovering flaws in form too.
I took lessons from a couple local pros (competition shooters @ state level) who helped me identify my challenges, and how to overcome them.
I shoot 200 or so arrows a week, about half of which are blind bale, practicing perfect form for every shot.
The result of all this effort?
1" groups @ 20 with 5 arrows I can pull from the target with one hand.
Only took me 6 months to pull it all together, and practice to get myself to this level.
Next step - a 1" group at 30!
DDM
 
I used to practice 7 days a week, years ago, when I worked at a local archery shop. Form and shooting. Got to the point where we would compete with each other for soda's and such. Someone would stick a golf tee in the backstop around 20 yards mostly, and whoever hit it won. Pretty good practice for trying to hit the x-ring on a McKenzie 3D turkey.

I quit 3D tourneys years ago, but still archery hunt.
 
Now, you said you sighted it in with field tips, but the problem did'nt start until you changed to broadheads? is this correct? If it was a spine issue, you would have problems all the time not just with broadheads.I'm assuming
your talking about the older 3 or 5 blade razorbacks? They
are a heavy head, and if your shooting carbons they could be part or all of the problem.I had the same problem until last fall when I went to a 340 spine but mine was off with
both field tips and broadheads.I shoot a mathews at about 60
lbs, arrows are 340's, w/ 100gr. muzzy's.Next, put some powder on your rest and shoot an arrow with the broadhead and see if your getting any contact with the rest at all.
Also, I finally learned my lesson with cheap arrows! stay away from "store brand" or cheaper end arrows, with that bow
and 62lb, draw wieght I recommend 340 shafts, or nothing lighter than 400's. fifty5grains
 
great advise fifty5grains, those walmart carbon knock offs will hurt your bank account and your accuracy dearly! I am living proof of that!.
 
It is a crying shame that stores like that sell cheap archery equipment! I shot an off brand broad head from walmart i think 9.95 for 3 bh's at a broad head target and the whole broad head blew up and shrapnel went every which way in that foam target. You honestly get what you pay for in stores like that.
 
Several guys have already given advice on to check your tuning. Another thing to be mindful of is your form. I know from experience that when I switch to broadheads I'll frequently hit a bit right, or most often for me its low right. Usually its in my form. Too much grip pressure, or torquing the riser by how him holding the bow.
 
I've never put much stock in paper 'tuning' either. Should be called paradox indicator instead. lol.

IMO you're not underspined with those arrows. If your broadheads don't group with your fieldpoints, it's most likely a tuning issue of some sort. Most compounds are never really tuned to perfection and I'm not entirely sure that they need to be, to be completely frank.

How long are your arrows? You can increase the spine fairly dramatically by simply chopping off an inch,..but I don't think that would really be necessary either.

The simplest fix would be to try a few different broadheads and see where they impact the target in relation to your fieldpoints. Find the one that works best and go hunting.
 
I went and shot with the guy from the shop today after work. First I bought arrows from Gander mtn. 5575 I have a target for broad heads and one for field points and shoot them at the same setting of shooting so if my form is off it should be for both types of arrows. The Razorbacks are the 3 blade. This is what we came up with today. I shot all kinds of arrows of different lengths with field points and broadheads and the broadheads where always to the right. Field tips right in there. Tried 7595 arrows as well with same result. We started playing with some of his broadheads he gets as demos in different weights and found the 250 grain 3 blade and 250 gr field tip with a 100 grain insert works perfect for the field point and broadhead on my 5575 arrows. An arrow 7595 with the same set up still shot to the right with the broad head. They are a little low because of the weight but that is an easy fix. Yes, 350 grains total on the tip. He does this with alot of guys and one guy ended up with 450 total. I did paper tune it a couple weeks ago and it left a nice hole. I had the paper about 8 feet in front of my target and set the target on a couple of box's so it was about the same height as the arrow leaves the bow.
 
Coykill, you need to find a different bow mechanic. They do not know what they are doing. Check you cam timing and knock point height, your arrow should be centered as it comes across the hole your rest is bolted to. If you were shooting gold tip 55-75 arrows you should be fine unless you are shooting over 72-75 lbs. Take your target and put a high visibility piece of yarn from the top to the bottom. Shoot 3 broad heads just focusing on rt. and lt. don't worry about hitting a spot. Shoot three field points. If your broad heads are hitting rt. bump your rest to the lt. always follow your field points. Move your sight. Do this again till you are grouping both at 20 yards. Back up and do it at 40. Same thing follow your field point with your rest. If you can’t get both to group you either have a tuning problem with your timing or you have a form issue. You should not be having to screw with arrow length or shooting that heavy of a broad head unless you just want to. Modern bows have an excess of kinetic energy and you aren’t gaining anything shooting that heavy. Tuning is much more important in penetration. I shoot a 55-75 gold tip with 100 grain broad heads and most of the elk I have shot I have had complete pass threws. Whoever is helping you with your bow is probably an old recurve or longbow shooter and is trying to use the tuning techniques for these bows on a compound. It’s like a john deer mechanic trying to tune you Lamborghini. If you know anyone that shoots competitive 3D at a pro or simi pro level most of those guys are excelent at bow tuning and are usually very willing to help you.

drscott
 
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