Burris Fullfield II Balistic Plex Reticle Help

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dpollard

New member
I'm headed out on a hunt tomorrow and tried to read the instructions on the ballistic plex reticle for my fullfield II 3-9x40. The instructions might as well be written in Greek because I have no idea how to read them.

I'm shooting a .277" Barnes 140 gr TSX BT bullet. It is traveling at 2831 fps. The ballistic coefficient is .404. I'll be at about 4000-4500 ft above sea level and temps are predicted to be about 60 degrees for a high. I am about 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 inches high at 100 yards. I'd like to know what yardages my sub tension lines will be good for?

Can anyone on here help me out? Typically I just call Burris and they tell me but I called them twice today and waited for 30+ minutes each time with no answer and now they're closed.
 
Go to the Burris website and you can find some info there. Your particular load might not be there though, that's why you need to shoot at a range and find out what is working for your rifle. I have several of those scopes and have not been impressed with the ballistic plex system.
 
As stated, I agree that a trip to the range to verify your exact load data compared to the B/plex. If I remember correctly, each mil dot is equal to approx 3.6" of elevation. I shoot .270 win and the Barnes 130gr TSX so my data won't work.

It's hunting season across most of the US now, so all manufactures are swamped in customer service departments. As a rough gauge in a pinch, I use the Winchester Calculator website with a best match round equivalent to my load. From there, I run the ballistic calc for drop and make a cross ref chart for each 100yrd increment. Referencing the 3.6" elevation per mil dot, I calc out the approx. distance each mil-dot represents and test at the range. I find this method is close enough to use as a starting point for punching paper - NOT HUNTING, as it could be 20-40 yrds off +/-
 
Originally Posted By: K9 StalkerAs stated, I agree that a trip to the range to verify your exact load data compared to the B/plex. If I remember correctly, each mil dot is equal to approx 3.6" of elevation. I shoot .270 win and the Barnes 130gr TSX so my data won't work.

It's hunting season across most of the US now, so all manufactures are swamped in customer service departments. As a rough gauge in a pinch, I use the Winchester Calculator website with a best match round equivalent to my load. From there, I run the ballistic calc for drop and make a cross ref chart for each 100yrd increment. Referencing the 3.6" elevation per mil dot, I calc out the approx. distance each mil-dot represents and test at the range. I find this method is close enough to use as a starting point for punching paper - NOT HUNTING, as it could be 20-40 yrds off +/-

You dont remember correctly. The Burris ballistic plex IS NOT A MIL DOT SCOPE and it does not have 3.6 inch sub tensions.

The sub tensions in the scope are meant to be zero marks at 100, 200, 300 etc.... That work when the scope is set on its highest setting or its calibration mark on the power ring if one is there. In the case of the 3x9 the OP has it would be set on 9x.

OP
Your scope should have come with some pre printed sheets of stickers that had cartridges and their drops on them. If you don't have those your going to have to make your own. Or set it up to zero at 100 yards and go out and shoot it at 2,3 and 400 to verify. Remember the scope has to be set at its highest setting for the scopes sub tensions to work correctly. It's not a perfect match either. On the charts below in the PDF there's a set of little numbers, those are the difference between the actual drop of the cartridge and the BP lines. There's a note there mentioning it.

There's some here in the instruction PDF..
http://www.burrisoptics.com/ballplex.html




 
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I have the subtension specs in a .pdf if you need it but I know that I tailored a handload with a 140 gr. Nosler BT at 2750fps to virtually match the hashmarks in the reticle. If you know the specs and velocity and coefficient of the projectile, its pretty easy to work it out. Now I have a load that is zeroed precisely at 100yds that is nearly perfectly accurate out to 500 using the burris reticle. I did this to make it simpler for my 16 yr old son to use instead of compensating the reticle to the load, it was just easier to compensate the load to the reticle. There is no 100% correlation of ANY factory load to ANY range-compensating reticle. Now I'm gonna work up a .223 load to correlate to the Leupold VXR reticle....just more fun
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Originally Posted By: hickerx2 If you know the specs and velocity and coefficient of the projectile, its pretty easy to work it out.

It's not easy for me. I cannot seem to figure it out.

I called Burris last year and gave them the info I posted in my OP at which point they told me, based on the elevation I was going to be shooting at, to go out and sight in my rifle for a 235 yd zero and that would put my subtension markings at even increments that are easy to remember, 300, 400, etc...

The only part that is changing this year is the elevation I will be shooting. I want to keep my zero where it is because I don't want to have to re-zero my rifle every time I change elevations I hunt.

Are you able to help me? I called Burris again today 2x and couldn't get through....
 
Zero the scope where YOU want , then go and actually shoot the rifle. No Burris rep, ballistics program, or guy on the internet can do this for you.

You may be able to get close, but squeezing triggers is the only way you will figure out exactly what each hash mark represents with a specific load under a specific set of conditions....
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgunZero the scope where YOU want , then go and actually shoot the rifle. No Burris rep, ballistics program, or guy on the internet can do this for you.

You may be able to get close, but squeezing triggers is the only way you will figure out exactly what each hash mark represents with a specific load under a specific set of conditions....
Well thats all certainly true but lots of guys arent able to access a 500yd range and since a bullet's trajectory is a known constant when you know the specifics, If you can verify it at shorter distances, the base trajectory will stay constant. If the reticle is accurate at 100, 200, and 300, it will be accurate at 400 and 500. Those reticles are only good if you know the subtension data. For instance, I surmise that most people arent aware that it takes an 11" correction at 100yds to raise POI 55" at 500.I mean how much good is a mil dot reticle if you dont know the subtension values? That was my only point in answering his question
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgunWhat does "accurate at 100, 200, 300" mean? Well, it means that strictly for elevation, because thats all these reticles do, that if the hashes are verified accurate at those increments, the amount of correction represented by the hashes will be accurate at other distances. I think you know very well what I'm saying. I just think you chose to pick a bone for some reason.
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgunHow much good is a 500 yd hash mark to somebody who can't shoot far enough to verify it??
How many times did the British Marine "verify" before he made a 2700yd shot in Afghanistan? Oh wait, he just may have depended upon the optics and the data he had. The guy asked a question and I tried to help him answer it Are you trying to boost your post count or something?
 
Originally Posted By: hickerx2Originally Posted By: 2muchgunHow much good is a 500 yd hash mark to somebody who can't shoot far enough to verify it??
How many times did the British Marine "verify" before he made a 2700yd shot in Afghanistan? Oh wait, he just may have depended upon the optics and the data he had. The guy asked a question and I tried to help him answer it Are you trying to boost your post count or something?



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Originally Posted By: 2muchgunHow much good is a 500 yd hash mark to somebody who can't shoot far enough to verify it????


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Originally Posted By: hickerx2Originally Posted By: 2muchgunHow much good is a 500 yd hash mark to somebody who can't shoot far enough to verify it??
How many times did the British Marine "verify" before he made a 2700yd shot in Afghanistan? Oh wait, he just may have depended upon the optics and the data he had. The guy asked a question and I tried to help him answer it Are you trying to boost your post count or something?

Spoken like a true rookie. The more you say, the more apparent it becomes that you haven't a clue.

So you just generally zero your scope and then depend upon upon what you read to do the rest for you?
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That is your idea of "help". Yes I'm sure that's JUST how snipers do it
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None of them would EVER actually shoot the gun to verify data is correct or practice before going afield.

Amazing.......
 
Ballistic reticles seem to have created a whole new type of shooter. One who is lazy and unwilling to do the work necessary to actuallly be proficient.

Now all you need is a "ballistic reticle" and a 100 yd zero to become an instant sniper.

Hint: if you don't practice at 500yds, don't shoot at critters 500 yds away. Regardless of what some "internet expert" like HX2 tells you......
 
Originally Posted By: 2muchgunBallistic reticles seem to have created a whole new type of shooter. One who is lazy and unwilling to do the work necessary to actuallly be proficient.


Same can be said about reloading forums and the Internet. They've created a whole new type of reloader, one who wants everyone else's pet load so they can somehow circumvent the research themselves.
 
Originally Posted By: dpollardOriginally Posted By: hickerx2 If you know the specs and velocity and coefficient of the projectile, its pretty easy to work it out.

It's not easy for me. I cannot seem to figure it out.

I called Burris last year and gave them the info I posted in my OP at which point they told me, based on the elevation I was going to be shooting at, to go out and sight in my rifle for a 235 yd zero and that would put my subtension markings at even increments that are easy to remember, 300, 400, etc...

The only part that is changing this year is the elevation I will be shooting. I want to keep my zero where it is because I don't want to have to re-zero my rifle every time I change elevations I hunt.

Are you able to help me?

I can help you!

Your location says Idaho and your going to be hunting at 4500 ft. Your elevation change from where ever you are in Idaho to 4500 feet isnt going to amount to much. Dont worry about it and go hunting.
 
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I can help you!

Your location says Idaho and your going to be hunting at 4500 ft. Your elevation change from where ever you are in Idaho to 4500 feet isnt going to amount to much. Dont worry about it and go hunting.



There's the answer you really needed.
 


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