I have started shooting my winchester 7mm STW and this gun has had a lot of extra's done to it. I bought a 4.5 x16 Nikon Monarch BDC and sighted it in at 200 off a bench. I moved back to 300 and put the next small circle below the crosshairs on the bullseye and shot 4 inches high. I done this three times. I then moved the target to 350 yds and put the same circle on bullseye and shot 4 inches low three times. I shoot Winchester supreme ballistic silvertip 140 grain. 50 yds drop 8 inches. Don't know anything about this gun and shooting, but right now I can't reload so the windchesters are all i got. This maybe my ignorce so if anybody has any helpful suggestions our experience with this gun lets here it. Rick
Can this be correct 7mm STW
- Thread starter rickyb
- Start date
wnroscoe
New member
With the given ammo you should sight for a POI @ +5.0" above POA @ 200 yards. This will/should be +3.5" at 100 yards. This will give you the MPBR, Maximum Point Blank Range for your chosen ammo/rifle. This simply means that your bullet should'nt rise above 5" or fall below 5" from 0 to 405 yards and a dead on zero of 344 yards. This is for a 10" kill zone on a whitetail deer.
From Sierra;
100 yards = +3.4"
150 yards = +4.68"
200 yards = +5.0"
250 yards = +4.3"
300 yards = +2.52"
350 yards = -.42"
400 yards = -4.58"
405 yards = -5.0"
One of the most critcal yardages when using this method until you get used to it is from 185 to 200. This is because it's so easy to shoot over your target if you get in a hurry. This is the method we use with our rifles. We tend to hunt pipe lines and clear cuts with maintained lanes. I'll use a range finder to locate my 200 and 400 yard mark, every thing else (yardages) in between is of no concern, the bullet will find it's mark. We've used this method for sevarl years and have great success with it.
From Sierra;
100 yards = +3.4"
150 yards = +4.68"
200 yards = +5.0"
250 yards = +4.3"
300 yards = +2.52"
350 yards = -.42"
400 yards = -4.58"
405 yards = -5.0"
One of the most critcal yardages when using this method until you get used to it is from 185 to 200. This is because it's so easy to shoot over your target if you get in a hurry. This is the method we use with our rifles. We tend to hunt pipe lines and clear cuts with maintained lanes. I'll use a range finder to locate my 200 and 400 yard mark, every thing else (yardages) in between is of no concern, the bullet will find it's mark. We've used this method for sevarl years and have great success with it.
wnroscoe how did you find that out. So your way ahead of me in this. I do hunt maintained lanes. One is 600 yds and the other is 400. I have never thought about this. So just so I understand with the ammo I mentioned I should sight my gun in at 3.4 inches at 100 and its roughly dead on at 350. I understand the 200 to 400 will take care of itself. I will need to aim a little low up to 200. I have my lanes marked with 200-400 so I guess I almost there. Would you agree that I should sight in at 3.4 @ 100 and check the 5inches at 200. Thanks Rick
Last edited:
wnroscoe
New member
I've been shooting long range hunting/target/comps out to 1k for about 20 years. 10 of those years I worked as an LEO and had the opportunity to shoot/train with persons previously employed by the US Government. Tactical & Long Range Rifle has always had my interest. I've studied ballistics, both internal and external via programs and reports generated by research performed by others.
MPBR is just a common tool used by numerous long range hunters. Within ballistics programs you can actually change the "Kill Zone Size" and use it for varmint hunting if you wanted to but, 10" is the size used for whitetail deer and it is here that I feel the method works best. You can take a piece of poster board and drawn a 10" circle on it. Move the target from 20 yards to 400 yards firing at it each time you move it. You should hit inside the 10" circle each shot, if you do your part. The best advice I can give is this, shoot your rifle at different ranges from 20 to 400 yards. Learn hold over and hold under. Make detailed notes as far as wind and where your POI was compared to your POA. Also, note the actual amount of bullet drop that has occurred and not what the programs say it should be. The programs are close but not exact. Practice and good notes are the best teacher out there. Take the MPBR method, learn it, use it and practice with it, you will be a more effective shooter come fall. Good luck
MPBR is just a common tool used by numerous long range hunters. Within ballistics programs you can actually change the "Kill Zone Size" and use it for varmint hunting if you wanted to but, 10" is the size used for whitetail deer and it is here that I feel the method works best. You can take a piece of poster board and drawn a 10" circle on it. Move the target from 20 yards to 400 yards firing at it each time you move it. You should hit inside the 10" circle each shot, if you do your part. The best advice I can give is this, shoot your rifle at different ranges from 20 to 400 yards. Learn hold over and hold under. Make detailed notes as far as wind and where your POI was compared to your POA. Also, note the actual amount of bullet drop that has occurred and not what the programs say it should be. The programs are close but not exact. Practice and good notes are the best teacher out there. Take the MPBR method, learn it, use it and practice with it, you will be a more effective shooter come fall. Good luck
Ridge Runner
New member
my stw's trajectory looks like this
nosler 140 BT @3550 fps (BC .485)
100 2.31
200 3.68
300 1.45
400 -4.89
500 -15.96
600 -32.55
RR
nosler 140 BT @3550 fps (BC .485)
100 2.31
200 3.68
300 1.45
400 -4.89
500 -15.96
600 -32.55
RR
Jack Roberts
Moderator - Deceased
I have found even the cheaper and free ballistics programs to be amazingly accurate. The secret is to not use the default values. You need the actual measured velocity, scope height, the elevation you are shooting at, the temperature, the barometric pressure, and at long range even the relative humidity.
Jack
Jack