Can't Hold it Still !!

Rooster_Feather

Rooster_Feather

Member
Okay....What is the trick to holding your crosshairs on the target? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif

I need some help from some real shooters to tell me their tricks!

I was checking my sights on my .223 with a Leupold II 3x9. We were shooting 200 yards. First of all, the cross hairs covered the whole bulls eye. The second thing, my crosshairs kept floating from left to right. I am shooting from a vise that I lock the forearm down in. I just can't seem to hold it steady enough.

Everyone talks about their 3/4" groups, I don't feel that I can get an accurate grouping because of MY movement.

Honestly, when I am just shooting 100 yards, I am still have movement.

Rooooooooster
 
If you are getting movement from breathing that tells me you're not using a rear bag with your front rest - your using your shoulder unsupported, and it takes considerable practice to lessen that effect.

If you want to shoot 3/4" in or less groups a complete rest setup is in order. Also remember as you move out to 200 yards your 100yard MOA will double, i.e 1" in a 100 will be 2" at 200 in a perfect scenario that is one reason why people want 1/2" or smaller 5 shot groups at 100.


Now if you are using a rear rest and have left to right movement of the crosshairs as you place your eye behind the scope and get your cheekweld, that is called parallax and is what the adjustable objective scope is used to remove.

Also shooting less than 3/4" in groups with a 3x9 non AO scope even at 100 yards is tough. If you want tight groups, higher magnification with AO is the name of the game with fine crosshairs to not obstruct your target. 14-16x would be a good minimum magnification for shooting groups at 100. 24-32 power is even better, especially for 200 and beyond.
 
everybody has the same problems, new shooters have it the worst until they learn a few things. the old military term of BRASS comes to mine. Breathe, Relax, Aim, Slack, Squeeze. breath control is important, you must learn to hold your breath for the proper amount of time (i.e. to long is not good, to short you sill have movement in the chest) RELAX Relax, getting up tight doesn't help, remember this is fun not work. Aim - remember the sight picture. I find in coaching that most people get lost here. Even through a scope, you must concentrate on the location of the crosshairs. To often people will be concentrating on the target and let the crosshairs wander off. Then there's the trigger squeeze, very slow and gentle, while concentrating on the crosshairs. Get a good position that is comfortable and brace yourself against anything that is handy. Lastly - go shoot alot Practice makes muscle control and muscle retention.
 
yep, practice and proper technique, lots of practice. but a good bipod and rear bag should get you into the 1/2 to 1/4 MOA are if your rifle/load is capable of it and you do everything right.
Concentrate on the target, take a deep breath, let half of it out as you slowly squeeze, after half the breath is exhaled hold your breath as you break the trigger.
Last week I shot a group measuring 2" or there abouts off a bipod, at 660 yds with my extreme range rifle, and I'm way sub-par to the 1K BR guys.
RR
 
A factory stock trigger can have a 8-9 lb pull to it. The effort it takes to exert that much force can also pull the cross-hairs off target.
 
When the gun is setting on the bags, how much pressure should you use to "hold" the gun? Should you just let the gun shoot, or try to brace it?

Roooooooooooooster
 
None. Don't "grip" the gun. The bags should be holding it in place. It's your heartbeat, or pulse, that is probably making the gun move. Your shoulder is the only bracing needed. The fewer body parts touching the gun, the better. Of course, this only applies to bench shooting.
 
My right hand lightly grips the gun and trigger, my left is holding the rear bag. I let the gun free recoil. Of course, the gun is against my shoulder.
 
Instead of using the pistol grip, try resting the rifle solidly then fire by using placing your thumb behind the trigger guard, fore finger on the trigger and "pinch" unitl it fires. Try it it takes a bit of practice but I have seen many precision shooters do this.
I am NOT a target benchrest type shooter, just something I have seen.\
CD
 
I use both hands... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I am sorry but I could not resist. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I honestly wouldn't worry about shooting 3/4 inch groups. I believe that for the average predator rifle if you can be within 2 inches at 100 yards off shooting bags you will be fine. There is way too much stock being put into how tight groups from a predator rifle should be. Group your gun as best as you can and go hunting. The most important thing is that you are able to hit what you are shooting at in the field, not from the bench. I've hunted with many people who tell me how tight their groups are, but when Mr. Yote shows up, they send flyers all over. Last weekend I took my Tikka T3 lite out and my best groups were just over an inch and a half, which for my calling rifle is just great for me using my 3-9 leupy mark 4. Just my 2 cents which probably isn't worth that much.
 
I think a target with a heavy vertical and horizontal line that you can match your crosshairs to will help a lot, especially at 200 yards. You can even draw them in with a magic marker if you need to. I have shot sub MOA with a 4x scope (with no lines) at 200 yards but it takes work. Sometimes you have to time the trigger squeeze to the motion because the more you concentrate on the trigger pull the more it seems to move, especially with a higher magnification scope. Try 6x or so for a while and see if that helps. The above posters are right on with some of the other tips. Pull the gun into you shoulder with the right hand, left hand under the buttstock pushing toward your shoulder for lock up. Front of the gun is on its own. Have the forestock on the sand bags not the barrel also.
 
I shoot off of front and rear sandbags. I also hold the rifle with two hands. It takes relaxation, patience, and practice to shoot tight groups.
 
As mentioned, you will have a hard time doing 3/4 with your set up. I would recommend doing away with the vise method as sand bag front and rear is way better. Also, the way you shoot off bags if for sight-in and groups. You will need to re-zero from field positions as most folks don't shoot the same point of impact as when on bags.

To shoot tight groups you will need way more optic. The better you can see the better you can shoot.
 
First Off,..if the crosshairs cover the aiming point,..you need more scope. This IS OF COURSE if you wish to shoot for tiny groups.

As to the movement,....is your bench steady on the ground? Is your seat stable? Why did you clamp the rifle at all? Rifles that are fitted to a bag,..but allowed to recoil will generally shoot better. Make sure the front and rear bags are in line as this will cause horizontle dispersion.
 
I can tell you one thing that really screws up my groups is caffine! I don't drink coffee, but I do take Excedrine for headaches and if I take them before I shoot, I'm toast! There's no way I'll shoot groups anywhere near what I'd shoot without any caffine in my system. Some people aren't affected as much as others but it sure gives me the jitters!!
 
Take a deep breath let out about half of it cover the target with the cross hairs and slowly let the rest of the breath out as you squeeze the trigger about the time your lungs are empty the rifle should go bang.
 
I'm not a fan of taking a breath and letting out half. What I've found towork better using the respiratory pause to shoot. That's the period between exhaling and inhaling. To me, it's more consistent and comfortable.
 
Back
Top