Case Weight ?

I

Idaho Buck

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I am loading for a 25-06 and wanted to know if weighing cases is going to help. How much difference in weight changes preassure.
I read about loaders weighing them but never read how much difference to worry about.
Thank for any info
Cleve
 
I really only believe that to be for bench shooters. Fora hunting rig I wouldn't worry about it. It's like weighting bullets for grouping. If its under 1.5" in a sportier barrel hunting rifle I'd be happy.
 
If you don't plan on shooting for accuracy past 300 yards then don't worry about weighing cases.

If you want to shoot small groups way out there then I feel weighing cases is mandatory, to ensure consistent case volume and uniformity. I trim and chamfer them, then I'll sort each case by weight and line them up. Then I throw out the heaviest and lightest outlyers and keep the 80'ish percent in the middle. Some lots there are very few outlyers, and cheaper brass there's usually more.
 
Weigh them...

Do you want to take the shot of your lifetime with the best ammo you can make? Or have a flier that screws up your nice group, or makes you miss the only coyote you've seen all day?

Why not just pour all your bullets into a big box, different brands and weights and load away.

I sometimes wonder if the quality controll person went to sleep, when I weigh cases. All manufacturers let a few bad ones slip buy.

Not sorting and weighing will work for plinking rounds, but not for precision.

But in the end, it is still up to you. There are lots of different kinds of shooters and reloaders. Some are happy if their loads just go bang when they pull the trigger.
 
How much difference in weight is acceptable? .05 grains .01 1.00? do they all have to weigh exactly the same. That is my question.
Yes iI would like to shoot tiny groops at long distances.
How many other steps are important and what are they? Which ones make the biggest changes?
I have been loading for 20 plus years but would like to do better. Right now with the first 4 loads for this rifle I shoot about 1 3/4 at 100. My next step was going to be seating depth.
Thanks
Cleve
 
Originally Posted By: Idaho Buck How much difference in weight is acceptable? .05 grains .01 1.00? do they all have to weigh exactly the same. That is my question.
Yes iI would like to shoot tiny groops at long distances.
How many other steps are important and what are they? Which ones make the biggest changes?
I have been loading for 20 plus years but would like to do better. Right now with the first 4 loads for this rifle I shoot about 1 3/4 at 100. My next step was going to be seating depth.
Thanks
Cleve

I would definitly look in other areas than case weight if your shooting 1 and 3/4" groups at 100. There are bigger gains to be found in other places first.

Case weight seperation won't turn a 1 3/4" gun into a .75" gun, I would agree with looking at seating depth as one of things to consider.
Perhaps some other bullet/powder combinations.

Have you looked at the gun itself, bedding, crown, scope/mount?
 
I am going to differ slightly from the rest here.
IF you are not shooting PAST 500 yards, it won't matter to you; unless the gun is not accurate anyhow.

In my 1,000 yard chasings, weighing is helpful but not enough.
This of course is provided you are looking for MOA, OR SMALLER at 1,000 yards. We all know that mass production is a game of averages. Weight is an indicator, but NOT an absolute of capacity. Take 2 of your cases that weigh the same, then do a water volume measure-up. You will be surprised...

Wanting to know the volume of something, but taking the weight; is like listening to the weatherman. It MAY give you an idea, but is rarely the correct answer.
 
I would like to know the answer to the OP's question my self, But no one has answered it yet.

What is the plus or minus ( weight variation ) that you fellas that weigh your cases look for / strive for?

DAB
 
Thanks DAB
I just gave up. I just figured no one was going to give any numbers. Thats all I wanted was numbers. must be a big secret
Cleve
 
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I don't sort cases. This is consistent. Heck, I usually have mixed head stamps! If your groups are 1-3/4" sorting brass won't help.

243V-MAX.jpg




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Don't mind that 45 cal hole on the bottom.
 
It's not about numbers, it's about how annal you want to get. Most will be close to the same weight, then you'll have some a little heavier and some a little lighter. What I look for are the ones that don't go in any of these three groups. These I mark the head with a Red marker and use for foulers, or dummy rounds to set up dies.

Weight numbers? Depends on whether your weighing 22 Hornet cases or 338 Lapua mag. as to what weight you would choose.
 
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Anal is as Anal does...And that's relative to your expectations on the results...

I don't know that there are any "established" perfect weight numbers from which to start...

The more consistent your weight groupings and within a tighter range of weight might be worth the effort if your only goal is to put several rounds in the same hole, but for the most part, I think you will find it's an exercise in futility...

Your consistency in brass prep, powder charges, and seating depth will go much farther in the accuracy department than most other efforts that you might put into reloading...Keeping the brass manufacturer groups will be a plus as opposed to actually weighing each piece, as will the number of times a particular group of brass has been reloaded/fired...
 
Originally Posted By: OldTurtleAnal is as Anal does...And that's relative to your expectations on the results...

I don't know that there are any "established" perfect weight numbers from which to start...

The more consistent your weight groupings and within a tighter range of weight might be worth the effort if your only goal is to put several rounds in the same hole, but for the most part, I think you will find it's an exercise in futility...

Your consistency in brass prep, powder charges, and seating depth will go much farther in the accuracy department than most other efforts that you might put into reloading...Keeping the brass manufacturer groups will be a plus as opposed to actually weighing each piece, as will the number of times a particular group of brass has been reloaded/fired...


What OT says in his last sentence is mostly the key to getting nice tight groups as shown in the pictured target ahead of OT's comments. It's all in reducing the variables which is what the precision shooters all strive for. Some of the steps might seem "anal" but the results are what they seek. For me, I look at accuracy as being a three pronged issue...the shooter, the loads and the equipment. A flaw in anyone of them makes a difference. Not saying this is the case in the present issue, but over the years I've usually found that the weakest link in the trio ain't the equipment or loads. But when you reduce every humanly possible variable, reality takes it's toll on the target. BTW, since I shoot for accuracy, I separate my Lapua brass by groups of .05 grs and my bullets by .01 grs. But again, I guess you can call me anal as well.
 
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Originally Posted By: Idaho Buck I am loading for a 25-06 and wanted to know if weighing cases is going to help. How much difference in weight changes preassure.
I read about loaders weighing them but never read how much difference to worry about.
Thank for any info
Cleve


All of your question really depends on, your ability to shoot, your rifles ability to perform, and your standard for performance.

Weighing cases will help to eliminate "fliers" in a group. This is assuming that on average, you are grouping well already but want to reduce or eliminate fliers.

All kinds of things can cause fliers in your group, including the "bugger" behind the trigger.

Weighing your cases alone will not give you much improvement. There is a system of things that must be addressed, Bullet powder combination, bullet seating depth, primer pocket uniformity, type of primer used, the list goes on and on and changes some what rifle to rifle. Heck, not properly sizing your cases will have more effect on group size than weighing them for average.

If you weigh cases, weigh them for average, and keep that average, in groups as close as possible. It is not a magic weight as much as a consistent weight within the group of brass you are working with. If you are not a benchrest kinda guy, dont bother.
 
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