Cleaning my 22-250?

zr600

Active member
Ok so my accuracy has been hurting lately so i went to clean my rifle. I have used hoopes number 9, sweets 7.62 solvent, and wipe out. I have run patch after patch till they come out clean with 7.62. Then i was told to try the wipeout so i sprayed it in the barrel let it sit for 8 hours or so. Went to run a patch through still getting blue on the patches and im using a plastic jag. So just out of curiosity i run a soaked patch of the hoppes number 9 through after the wipe out was cleaned out and dry and nothing was showing on the patches i still got a blue on a patch. What am i doing wrong? Or is my gun just thos dam dirty?
 
Some will say keep going until you get it all out. Others will suggest that you manage the copper build up and not actually aspire to remove it all. I say do what you are comfortable with a gets you the accuracy you want.
 
When a dry patch comes out clean I let it ride. Keeping a wet patch clean takes dedication to consitant cleaning. You might want to try a more aggressive cleaner. Make sure that you cover the stock surfaces if you use wood stocks.
 
One patch kroil, wait 20 min.

Clean with JB bore compound.

3-10 patches of any kind of solvent you like. (Until it's all out.)

1 patch kroil.

2 dry patches.

I promise you'll see bare metal, and you only have to do this every 150 rounds or so for hunting rifles.
 
Use some good bronze bristle brushes, and a brush is good for 80-100 strokes max.

Also, JB on patches stroked back and forth using a tight "punch" type of jag. 5 patches saturated with JB will clean a gun barrel down to bare metal, usually.

Here is my procedure which is typically what most benchrest and long range accuracy shooters will use.

Using a bore guide, Lucas or Neil Jones is the best..bar none.

1. Run 4 wet patches down the bore, I use Montana Extreme Bore solvent

2. Brush 10 strokes with Sinclair bronze bristle brushes or Montana Extreme Plastic brushes

3. Run 4 wet patches of Bore solvent through the bore to wash out all the sludge

4. run 2 dry patches through the bore on a punch type rod jag

5. run 4 wet patches of Montana extreme Copper Killer through the bore, let sit 15 minutes, repeat
if patches come out blue

Montana Extreme has a solvent called Copper Cream that is the equal to JB and easier to use, it is awesome on really fouled bores.

When you let bores go to far, they can be a shore nuff can of worms to get clean, a lot of work.

CZ527's method above is darn good, make no mistake about that fact! JB and Montana Extreme's Copper Cream(I think that it has Kro Oil in it) are fantastic and will not harm bores.



Good luck
 
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Remember most rifled barrels will require a fouling shot or two after cleaning( especially total copper removal) to return to zero. Kroil and JB will deep clean use tight patches and 20-30 back and forth pass you will feel the resistance decrease as the polish strips the copper.
 
Oily cleaning residue left in the bore can be minimized by running a patch of lighter fluid down the bore. This one patch of lighter fluid will change a lot of opinions of fouling shots after cleaning, especially in custom barrels. Every barrel is different, don't assume anything.
 
Dewey?
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I would go Tipton but I have two of them and no ProShots

Greg
 
Originally Posted By: CZ527One patch kroil, wait 20 min.

Clean with JB bore compound.

3-10 patches of any kind of solvent you like. (Until it's all out.)

1 patch kroil.

2 dry patches.

I promise you'll see bare metal, and you only have to do this every 150 rounds or so for hunting rifles.

^ THIS ^

Just follow the directions on the JB container. You may also
need additional strokes from chamber to 6-10" of bore. That's
where most of the buildup is in most rifles. Twenty-five to 30
strokes should take care of this area.

Originally Posted By: zr600Ok im looking at getting a good cleaning rod what should i get between the tipton or proshot?

Whatever ya get, you also need a bore guide in the action to
keep the rod centered with the bore.
 
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