pasturepup
New member
Do you have to crimp the bullet? A friend of mine who has reloaded millions of rounds says you don't have to but it just keep the bullet from moving in the brass.
Last edited:
Crimp bullet on .300 Weatherby
- Thread starter pasturepup
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pasturepup
New member
I meant to say crimp the bullet in the brass. Man I need a drink or switch from what I am drinking!! (coffee)
pasturepup
New member
.300 Weatherby and 168gr JHP or even a 150 gr SP
Hidalgo
Well-known member
Sorry Michael, I can't help you with a 300 Wby.
But someone will come along who knows. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
You might want to go back to your first post, click the EDIT button, and change the title to CRIMP 300 WEATHERBY OR NOT?...or something like that. It'll get you a little more answers with this particular situation. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
But someone will come along who knows. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
You might want to go back to your first post, click the EDIT button, and change the title to CRIMP 300 WEATHERBY OR NOT?...or something like that. It'll get you a little more answers with this particular situation. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
In short, no. I have loaded a ton of 300 Wby and never crimped. I am shooting it all out of an unbraked lightweight so the recoil is fairly severe. The shells in the magazine will get slightly flattened polymer tips with some of those bullets but they never move in the case neck (I have measured).
Hello,
I have never had any problem with NOT crimping the bullets you mentioned in the 300 WBY. I have never had any complains from our customers. That being said, if you have a 4 pound titanium rifle you might want to think about it. Also, some Woodleigh solids and other bullets of the "bore rider" type will require crimping.
John
I have never had any problem with NOT crimping the bullets you mentioned in the 300 WBY. I have never had any complains from our customers. That being said, if you have a 4 pound titanium rifle you might want to think about it. Also, some Woodleigh solids and other bullets of the "bore rider" type will require crimping.
John
pasturepup
New member
Thank you gentlemen for all your help. I feel a little easier knowing I can come here and get almost instant information on questions.
blinddog
New member
Many folks it seems have a problem with crimping. The fact is seating dies usually when set corectly put a crimp in as well. It seems that many folk just do not understand that a good taper crimp, (like what is on your 300 WBY) can hardly be seen with out magnifycation. A roll crimp on the other hand is easily seen I think that is where many people get the mistaken idea that some rounds are not crimped at all. I have been told that target ammo is not crimped for instance, with no crimp pressure would be reduced to an unknown degree. With a proper even taper crimp however the presssure is always going to be the same. Also in standard hunting ammo if the bullest are not crimped what will keep them in the case?
OK so that is my argument for crimping. Taper crimp is done on bottle neck cases like the 300 WBY, 30-06, 308 and 223/5.56, and the 45 ACP, this round headspaces on the case mouth like some other semi auto rimless straight walled cases other rimmed straight walled cases use a heavy ROLL crimp rounds like the 45 Colt and 44 Mag 357 ect are in this group. Rifle cases that need a roll crimp are well 45-70 38-55 and several of the older chamberings these are all straight or slightly tapered cases. all bottle neck cases use a taper crimp though, and like I said this taper crimp just sqeezes the case neck around the bullet a roll crimp bends the case mouth slightly into the crimp groove. The degree of crimp is determined by setting the seating die. along with the seating stem. turn the die body in a sixteenth of a turn and the seating stem out a nd the case gets a tighter crimp with the same COAL. turn the die body out an eight turn and the seating stem deeper and you get less crimp with the same COAL. If you can remove the bullet from a loaded case with finger pressure you need to put a bit more crimp on it or if the bullet can be pushed in with slight pressure against the bench you need more crimp. Usually the directions that come with the die set will explain how to set the die to seat and crimp in the same operation. I know some folks get the extra die to put a nice taper or roll crimp in a sepperate step but in my opinion that just is not needed
OK so that is my argument for crimping. Taper crimp is done on bottle neck cases like the 300 WBY, 30-06, 308 and 223/5.56, and the 45 ACP, this round headspaces on the case mouth like some other semi auto rimless straight walled cases other rimmed straight walled cases use a heavy ROLL crimp rounds like the 45 Colt and 44 Mag 357 ect are in this group. Rifle cases that need a roll crimp are well 45-70 38-55 and several of the older chamberings these are all straight or slightly tapered cases. all bottle neck cases use a taper crimp though, and like I said this taper crimp just sqeezes the case neck around the bullet a roll crimp bends the case mouth slightly into the crimp groove. The degree of crimp is determined by setting the seating die. along with the seating stem. turn the die body in a sixteenth of a turn and the seating stem out a nd the case gets a tighter crimp with the same COAL. turn the die body out an eight turn and the seating stem deeper and you get less crimp with the same COAL. If you can remove the bullet from a loaded case with finger pressure you need to put a bit more crimp on it or if the bullet can be pushed in with slight pressure against the bench you need more crimp. Usually the directions that come with the die set will explain how to set the die to seat and crimp in the same operation. I know some folks get the extra die to put a nice taper or roll crimp in a sepperate step but in my opinion that just is not needed
Bottle neck cartridges do not headspace on the mouth, they headspace on the shoulder. A crimp is neither necessary nor desireable. I believe it provides no benefit unless being used in a HEAVY recoiling rifle (I don't know how the 300 Weatherby ranks, but I'd say no) a tube fed, or for dangerous game.
It is an extra step and an extra variable that you do not need to introduce.
It is an extra step and an extra variable that you do not need to introduce.
Jack Roberts
Moderator - Deceased
You can't crimp those bullets anyway. They do not have a cannelure. It is impossible to crimp a bullet without a cannelure unless you crimp so hard you distort the bullet.
Jack
Jack
Jack Roberts
Moderator - Deceased
Theoretically it headspaces on the belt but in practice when properly sized it headspaces on the shoulder.
Jack
Jack
CatShooter
New member
Quote:
Theoretically it headspaces on the belt but in practice when properly sized it headspaces on the shoulder.
Jack
It headspaces on the belt for the first shot, then it headspaces on the shoulder (unless you are dumb enough to set the shoulder back).
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Theoretically it headspaces on the belt but in practice when properly sized it headspaces on the shoulder.
Jack
It headspaces on the belt for the first shot, then it headspaces on the shoulder (unless you are dumb enough to set the shoulder back).
.
Just to clear up a couple of points, the proper pressure upon ignition of a bottleneck cartridge is maintained not by any crimp, but by the neck tension on the bullet. It is a somewhat subtle difference but neck tension is achieved before the bullet is seated, actually in the sizing operation as the neck expander is drawn up through the neck or the neck is sized against the bushing in this type of die. Also, while most bottleneck cartridges headspace off the shoulder, the 300 Wby and other belted magnums headspace off the belt.