Custom Revolver for My Brother - Where to get the work done?

Bit of a gamble there but the guy said I could take a look at some he has done. Hatari Custom Gunsmithing out of Salina. I am not trying to go real light just more smooth than anything so I don't think it should be a tough job.
 
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I don't know Skyler, but I've talked to him a few times. I contemplated having him do a D&T job on one of my revolvers which I don't seem to have time to do myself... Haven't yet done so. I might use him in the future, but I'm anxious to see how he does for your project if you do go forward with him.

I tend to do all of my own revolversmithing, so I'm probably not much help, but I have had bits and pieces of custom work done in the past, and have bought multiple revolvers which had been customized by some of the big name folks... Gemini, Clements, Bowen, Reeder, Harton, etc...

How much have you researched pricing for proper action work and/or finish work? You mentioned you think engraving is out of your price range, but after reading that statement, I want to warn you about the cost of proper revolversmiths. Any time you say, "custom revolver," you're talking steep costs. A simple action job on a GP100 can run $500-750 or more with these big name smiths, and you might find yourself on a 2yr wait list. The work is well worth it, but comparatively, you could get relatively simple engraving done by someone like Jim Downing can be as low as a few hundred bucks. I've never commissioned work from him, but Richard Kramer out of Hutchinson does VERY nice engraving work also. Mind you, I'm not talking about full custom cylinder/barrel builds, which can cost $1500-5000, or more - I'm just talking about getting standard action jobs done for $500-1000.

You can save a lot of money by going to a jack of all firearms gunsmith, instead of a proper revolversmith, but you can also often get burned. Many gunsmiths don't even take work on revolvers. I've not seen any work Skyler/Hatari has done on revolvers, so I'll be interested to see your results if you do use him.

I'm a bit of a revolver nut, so like I said, I'm prone to do my own action jobs. I've done my own bead blasting in the past, but I shop that out these days. Unless I'm doing milling or lathe machining work, I don't pay someone else to do it. A couple dozen hours with polishing compound and elbow grease, a sear jig and stones, some wolff springs and Lance's shims, I can do an action job which meets or beats any local GUNsmith I've ever used, and is within what I'd call 80% of what I've paid for custom REVOLVERsmiths... But for FREE instead of $1000...

Where are you located, yourself? Local to Salina? I grew up around Lindsborg, but live in Wichita now. If you settle in for a Ruger and decide to do your own action job on it, I might be able to help you out.
 
Skyler seems like a good guy so far. Very helpful and much more friendly on the phone than any other shop I have gotten a hold of. That goes a long way with me. Obviously it doesnt say anything in terms of the quality of the work but I also am not looking for extreme action performance. I want a pretty mild change and have explained that. A smoother and slightly lighter action is all I am after. A light trigger in a revolver seems a bit risky to me so I just want it to be a better trigger.

I am happy to report how this project comes out. I can post detailed pictures and review.

Engraving would be interesting, just from my pricing it seems like a lot of cost for a small piece of engraving or 4 times the cost of the gun for more extensive work. I might consider something like my brothers initials engraved in old style script. Not decided yet.

I am actually in Bel Aire so basically North Wichita. Some help with the Ruger would be great. I am pretty handy and have done some customizing before on a 1911 and cleaned up quite a few surplus guns, but the revolver trigger isnt something I have messed with. I can tear down and reassemble a 1911 in a few minutes but the one time I pulled apart my gp100 getting it back together was quite a headache haha so I have avoided taking down any revolvers apart since.

I am actually talking to a guy about trading one of my low end 1911s for an sp101 with accessories. The guy hasnt emailed back lately so might not go through but we will see.
 
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I had porting done on a S&W 44mag 4" and it was loud but what bothered me was the flash at dusk or dark. It was like a flash bulb going off in your face. I was pretty munched blinded for a second shot. It was Magna Porting done 30 years ago so maybe they changed something?
 
Originally Posted By: crapshootYou could also have the grips laser engraved a lot cheaper than hand engraving the gun itself.

I like that idea a lot! Then I could do something personal and not have it be permenently on the gun. I am sure he woudnt sell it anyway but I have a old 1100 that the previous owner electropenciled his social security number into and it is unfortunate haha.

Originally Posted By: viperI had porting done on a S&W 44mag 4" and it was loud but what bothered me was the flash at dusk or dark. It was like a flash bulb going off in your face. I was pretty munched blinded for a second shot. It was Magna Porting done 30 years ago so maybe they changed something?

I have decided to heed the advice given before and will not be porting. It seems like a cool feature but I am sure once the novelty wears off it may be more annoying than useful. I have read however that with modern quality ammo you can achieve nearly zero flash. I think the trick is fast powder but don't quote me on that.
 
There's no trick to it. There are loads which pyrolyze and subsequently burn better than others in a short barrel, and there are powders which incorporate flash suppressant chemicals... It's not a trick... But it's also not without compromises, and frankly, it's not even really worth spending time pursuing. Flash is one consequence of porting, concussion is another. Guys either like porting, or they don't, and most of us don't.
 
Update: picked up an old police issue 64. It should be a great base for the project!
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My biggest problem now is that all of this has convinced me to replace my LC9 carry gun with a revolver...so I still need to find a second one. Maybe a sp101 or even a 640. Not sure yet.
 
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And that short search is over! I found my new carry gun.

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Got it for $350! It's a model 60 in 38 I believe (the listing claims 357 but I call BS on that). This one I don't think I will be modifying because it looks like it is in great condition and I just couldn't bring myself to do it. It will make a great LC9 replacement though. This one has shipped and the 64 should ship shortly.
 
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Originally Posted By: Brad WAnd that short search is over! I found my new carry gun.

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Got it for $350! It's a model 60 in 38 I believe (the listing claims 357 but I call BS on that). This one I don't think I will be modifying because it looks like it is in great condition and I just couldn't bring myself to do it. It will make a great LC9 replacement though. This one has shipped and the 64 should ship shortly.

Some S&W Model 60 Revolvers are chambered in 357 Magnum, some in 38 Special. The barrel will be marked accordingly. The Model 60 is also a stainless revolver. Your revolver doesn't look stainless. Yours looks more like a polish blue Model 36 Chief's Special. Or maybe its a poorly lighted photo? The grip finger spacer is aftermarket.
 
It's the lighting. It is definitely stainless. The seller just messed up the listing saying it was 357 when it was 38. I've discovered that the seller inherited the gun recently and she is not highly knowledgeable.
 
I dived in and have started dehorning. It's slow but very therapeutic. I bought a bunch of needle files from a local industry surplus store for a buck a piece. Some of them are even Swiss made!

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So far it's looking great in my opinion. Still lots of scratches to clean up before blasting but that won't be an issue.

I do have a question though. Is there any hope getting rid of these stamps? The one is super close to the logo which I don't want to destroy and the other even dented the side plate which will means I will have to dish it out even more to remove the stamping. Since I am bead blasting it maybe the dishing wont be obvious because it isn't shiney but I am not sure.

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Thanks I'm very happy with my first try with it. The trigger is actually super slick and pretty light already so I am going to leave it. I'm debating some engraving to top it off. Probably would have to touch it up after butvthe second time around is always easier.
 


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