dispatching trapped animals

C

Carl Olmstead

New member
I am going to try my hand at trapping this fall/winter and have a question concerning the dispatch of animals that might get caught in one of my traps. I hope to be trapping on a game management area, and they do not allow the use of small bore/ centerfire guns. Obviously I don't want to dispatch an animal with a shotgun, which is the only weapon allowed on the management area. What would be the preferred method? If I have to use a club, is there any certain spot to aim for to dispatch the animal cleanly. I know that on a porcupine you aim for the bridge of the nose, and this does them in effectively.
I'll take all the help I can get on this matter.
 
Yotecaller,
I have tried the method you describe. It isn't worth a hoot on raccoon. I have heard guys claim they karate chop coyotes to back of the neck, and one guy claims to body slam em on the frozen ground but I don't see ME trying that kind of silly stunt.
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You know the stuff they use on M-44's? Some of that stuff on a 5 foot stick will do the job but not legal here.
 
Carl,
I trapped for the first time last year myself. In Wisconsin you are required to take an education course that teaches you the basics of trap selection, sets, dispatching animals, etc... I would contact your local tapping organization (most states have them) and see what kind of info they can send you. Try and get your hands on the NTA handbook, it is a great aid for beginning trappers.

To answer your question, the best way is a low powered 22RF such as a CCI CB long in the temple or ear canal. If that is not an option, another method is to stike the animal on the bridge of the nose with your trapping trowel (not too hard as if to kill it---just to stun it). Then, with the fox/coyote knocked out, flip it on its side and place one foot over it's neck so it cannot bite if it comes to and here you can do one of two things. If you are strong enough you can stomp forcefully right behind the shoulder on the lower third of the body (directly over the heart), this will kill the animal almost instantly. The other way is to step with your whole foot directly behind the shoulder across the depth of the body. This will crush their resparitory system and suffocate the animal within a minute or two--almost always the animal dies without ever waking up. The last is probably the most prefered method. They both have worked well, but remember it is easier to hold and then subdue the animal if the trap chain is shorter (9-12 inches). I usually add a shock spring and center bottom attatchment of the chain also as this adds a buffer to the whole system. I have an extra copy of the handbook if your interested in it I would be happy to send it to you. Send me an email if you have any questions or want that handbook. [url=mailto:masalm@tds.net
 
Welcome to Predator Masters, Carl.
Are you saying that a small bore and centerfire weapons are not allowed, or smallbore centerfire weapons all together.
If the latter, why not a rimfire 22 pistol?

Also which game management area are you going to be trapping?

~River Runner~

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www.predatormasters.com
 
I started trapping several years before Dad let me carry a firearm outdoors with out supervision. I did all of my dirty work with an old ax handle that had been cut off a few inches below where the head fit on.

I hit the animal right at the back of the skull, just as hard as I could swing. Not counting possums, I rarely ever had to swing a second time.
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Hello everyone and thank you all for the information. I figured it would come down to whacking an animal, but I wanted to see if maybe there was another option open to me. Not really to keen on the idea of getting to close to the claws and jaws of an already ticked off critter, but I guess we have to take the good with the bad.
I hope to get permission to trap on a game management area, and the only weapon authorized for hunting or anything else on the area is a shotgun. I know there are alot of raccoons on the area, from the sign we have seen while hunting and from talking to the game wardens who patrol the area. Last year we went night calling on the management area, and got two raccoons out of one tree.
I never would have thought raccoons would be living in this area, which is mostly high plains/desert type area. I can only imagine what the actual population density might be. On the management area there is a fish hatchery, turkeys, pheasants,ducks, geese, and quail. I also know there is a good number of coyotes in and around the management area also. If I get permission from the D.O.W. to trap there, I hope to do good, but I know I'm just starting out, so I'm not expecting to catch an animal in all of my traps.
Once the trapping season starts, I'll probably be posting alot of questions asking for advise from you guys that have done some trapping. Once again, I would like to thank you all for the infromation you have provided so far. Thanks
 
If you are going to be trapping on public lands, be real careful that your sets are specie specific, avoid sets that might catch some hunter's dog. In a lot of trapping magazines the last couple of years, a lot has been said about bucket sets for coon and other coon sets that use the 220 conibear. While the 220 is a great coon trap, they should not be set anywhere there is a chance of a hunter's dog finding them. ( Did you ever notice that a coon and a beagle run with their noses about the same height off of the ground?)

Using a club is no problem with trapped animals, and it is just one more good reason to keep trap chains under 12" in length. This also helps to keep the trapped animal from lunging and injuring it's paw.
 
im with tim on this one. i used an 18" rebar trap stake as a kid. when i finally got to use the .22 i found that a gun just made more of a mess(sometimes even seemed less humane), made more noise, and was just something extra to lug around. a swift blow just behind the ears puts em right to sleep.
if im just trapping coons, rats, mink, or fox, i leave the gun in the truck!
 
I've been trapping for 37 years. (Yeah - I'm old!!)
I always used an old hickory shovel handle to dispatch everything by a blow to the top of the head. (Except housecats - you can't get close enough to them if they're in a trap)
I had a VERY prime red fox take off on me one day so I started using CB caps in a .22 revolver on foxs.(My fault - short chain) I still shoot the reds, grays and yotes. The small hole can be sewn up easily. Head shots are way to messy to deal with after they expire. Just my opinion - I'm sure some would agree or disagree. The main thing is to enjoy yourself out there and don't let it turn into a job...

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Stainless Steel isn't...

[This message has been edited by illinoisboy (edited 11-09-2001).]
 
Carl, I believe that Matt summed it up very well. It describes everything that I was ever taught as a member of the National or Iowa Trappers associations.

Good luck.
 
Carl,
I never took a course... unless you can call tagging along with my uncle and grandfather a course, so don't know what they might offer through your DNR. I imagine they are very good.
One important thing... blood at a set doesn't seem to bother some furbearers, (mink, coons) but for a fox set, it can ruin it for the rest of the season.
When animals get caught they scent up the area and make your prospects very good for another catch at the same site. Not so for Mr. Fox, if blood is around. That's something to consider when shooting Mr. Fox; especially if you don't have a large stomp'n ground on which to run your line.

Good Luck and keep us posted...

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I have a Weatherby rifle, LL Bean boots and an Eddie Bauer Parka... how in the world can I be lost ?!?!

[This message has been edited by illinoisboy (edited 11-10-2001).]
 
Don't know if your DNR would classify an airgun as a fire arm or not. I used to trap and dispatched many a coon and possum with my .22 cal Benjamin. You had to shoot it back near the ear instead of betw. the eyes, but it worked well. Any high powered air rifle would work on coons and foxes. Yotes might be a bit tougher, but I bet you could do it w/ careful shot placement.
 
I thought I would let everyone know that I finally caught my first raccoon. This being my first ever year to do any trapping, so I'm pretty pleased about this.
I had been using #220 conibears in cubbie sets and was only catching skunks. Then I went to putting my traps at crawl unders on fence lines and setting them on trails. Still didn't catch any coons. So this past sunday I set some snares. One of the snares I set, I put it in front of a drain pipe that connects to ponds and went under a road.
Bright and early monday morning, I had my first coon. Caught at the drain pipe. Naturally, I didn't have to worry about dispatching him since the snare took care of that.
I would like to thank everyone for all of the advice, and I'll be asking for more in the near future as I'm thinking about doing some snares for coyotes and bobcats and foxes.
Thank you all again.
 
Congrats Carl!!!!
You are now "officially" a Trapper! (Mice caught in the kitchen don't count)
Keep us posted - and hang in there. The more you do it, the more you learn. Watch the snares as they are very unforgiving to "man's best friend" as well as furbearers.
Keep at it...
 
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