Does Bedding an AR barrel Help?

Originally Posted By: trshootem Someone surely will pipe up with the milspec on this, ending all speculation and discussion.

we are all waiting for willy to come back and tell us all the juicy stuff none of us know about.

willy, willy, come out where ever you are.
 
here's my take on it for what its worth, Buy and use a lapping tool to square up the receiver, install the barrel nut with a dab of molly grease.
torque to spec and loosen 3 times then tighten to spec final time.
have not had a bad shooter yet ,of course load development and barrel quality comes into play also.
 


I have been shooting a CAR15 since 1969. You make sure every part is to spec.
Clean all your parts. Coat with light clear oil. Over torque by 5 foot-pounds.
Loosen your nut then retorque your barrel nut to spec.
By over-torquing the nut, it takes the stretch out of the threads.
No new internal or external threads are not perfect.
The treads will have little tears from machining on the surface of the threads.
I like to do a bit more the 5 if it goes to easy. After shooting those threads can lose torque.
That is why you over-torque.
I do not like Loctite on any firearm. It just shows poor workmanship.
If Loctite were used you have to get some high-temperature, type 2620.
That is good for 650 degrees.
You ask!
 
I do lap all receivers with the wheeler squaring lap. I think that is one of the more important fits of the rifle. As far as burnishing threads goes the main reason for that is to wear the threads in to give the fastener the proper amount of load at a given torque spec to reach the manufacturers recommended amount of stretch which is based on a percentage of the point at which it yields or in other words permanently stretches. Fasteners don't permanently stretch until they are over torqued and it would be bad practice to ever overtorque any fastener unless it is a torque to yield fastener. What a fastener is torqued to reach the proper amount of stretch and load matters on what lubricant is applied to the threads and friction area. Whether they are put together dry with oil, or a Moly based lubricant all changes the amount of torque needed. Then you throw in the thermal expansion rate of dissimilar materials and it all changes again.
As far as Loctite goes it isn't there to secure a Fastener it is there to take up excess space between the barrel extension and where it mates to the upper receiver to take up excess clearance in a mil-spec situation.
And although you didn't ask I gave you my opinion anyway cuz nobody likes a smart aleck.
 
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Originally Posted By: willy1947

I have been shooting a CAR15 since 1969. You make sure every part is to spec.
Clean all your parts. Coat with light clear oil. Over torque by 5 foot-pounds.
Loosen your nut then retorque your barrel nut to spec.
By over-torquing the nut, it takes the stretch out of the threads.
No new internal or external threads are not perfect.
The treads will have little tears from machining on the surface of the threads.
I like to do a bit more the 5 if it goes to easy. After shooting those threads can lose torque.
That is why you over-torque.
I do not like Loctite on any firearm. It just shows poor workmanship.
If Loctite were used you have to get some high-temperature, type 2620.
That is good for 650 degrees.
You ask!



Well that isn't any different than everyone else is doing except that you are not squaring the face of the receiver which is important and you are over torqueing the nut which I do not do. Torque it and loosen it several times. So by your own post, you are also doing it wrong.
 
Originally Posted By: willy1947

I can see that no one here knows how to in stall an AR barrel.



Originally Posted By: willy1947

I have been shooting a CAR15 since 1969. You make sure every part is to spec.
Clean all your parts. Coat with light clear oil. Over torque by 5 foot-pounds.
Loosen your nut then retorque your barrel nut to spec.
By over-torquing the nut, it takes the stretch out of the threads.
No new internal or external threads are not perfect.
The treads will have little tears from machining on the surface of the threads.
I like to do a bit more the 5 if it goes to easy. After shooting those threads can lose torque.
That is why you over-torque.
I do not like Loctite on any firearm. It just shows poor workmanship.
If Loctite were used you have to get some high-temperature, type 2620.
That is good for 650 degrees.
You ask!



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Originally Posted By: reb8600

Well that isn't any different than everyone else is doing except that you are not squaring the face of the receiver which is important and you are over torqueing the nut which I do not do. Torque it and loosen it several times. So by your own post, you are also doing it wrong.

ya.. but i'm sure that was *THE* way to do it 30 years ago...
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but then again - people thought pastels and florescent colors were cool too around that same time
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both also happen to be perfect examples of what we learned since then how to change for the better
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Originally Posted By: Coyotehunter_What is anti-seize? Is anti-seize different than locktite?


if you wanna learn the difference between always-seize and loctite...


i do NOT recomend testing them out on the lug nuts on your car.
right tool for the wrong job type of situation
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#justsayin
 
Wow! Thanks, such a good answer.
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if you wanna learn the difference between always-seize and loctite...


i do NOT recomend testing them out on the lug nuts on your car.
right tool for the wrong job type of situation
smile.gif
#justsayin
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